1 Sub vs 2 Subs

I'm currently looking into the ELD, how's the difficulty and is the payoff worth it? From what I read it runs your alternator at high speeds all the time.
Taking your time to do it properly,prob 4 hrs,and worth the effort.Especially when running Lights,a/c,and the radio at the same time.A toggle switch is recommended to place back to STOCK setting if you arent wanting to run the Alt constantly,yet,I see no different from running my chevy alt constant?Honda did this ELD, to save on gas milage,in which to me has been not been that well noticed in my 99 crv.I just redid it/checked it last week to mae certain I did it properly,and added a cold air intake in place of the big airbox,and modified the new AGM batt with the big3 under the hood,and will be placing another agm batt in the rear for my MMatts 300 tomorrow.

 
Taking your time to do it properly,prob 4 hrs,and worth the effort.Especially when running Lights,a/c,and the radio at the same time.A toggle switch is recommended to place back to STOCK setting if you arent wanting to run the Alt constantly,yet,I see no different from running my chevy alt constant?Honda did this ELD, to save on gas milage,in which to me has been not been that well noticed in my 99 crv.I just redid it/checked it last week to mae certain I did it properly,and added a cold air intake in place of the big airbox,and modified the new AGM batt with the big3 under the hood,and will be placing another agm batt in the rear for my MMatts 300 tomorrow.
I'll look into it, and ask my friend if he can do it since I don't trust myself with messing with the car's wiring.

 

---------- Post added at 09:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:16 PM ----------

 

I have always liked 1.4-2.0 for 10s,and 12s
Should I ignore what PE recommends? Or just roll with it?

 
I'll look into it, and ask my friend if he can do it since I don't trust myself with messing with the car's wiring.[/quoteJust be sure to follow the directions,step by step properly,and you should be just fine.You can also PM keep_hope_alive if you need to, but its pretty self explanitory/fairly easy,and cheap to do.
 
I'll look into it, and ask my friend if he can do it since I don't trust myself with messing with the car's wiring.[/quoteJust be sure to follow the directions,step by step properly,and you should be just fine.You can also PM keep_hope_alive if you need to, but its pretty self explanitory/fairly easy,and cheap to do.
Would this amp work? MB Quart OA750 1 750W RMS Class D 1 Channel Monoblock Onyx Series Amplifier | eBay

I'm also going to install a pair of component speakers that are rated at 160W each. Would this amp cover those two? MB Quart ONX2 100 400W Onyx Series 2 Channel Class A B Power Car Amplifier Amp 806576218166 | eBay
 
I'll look into it, and ask my friend if he can do it since I don't trust myself with messing with the car's wiring. 

---------- Post added at 09:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:16 PM ----------

 

Should I ignore what PE recommends? Or just roll with it?
Id go with at least a 1.4 sealed for a 12 min.As stated, you can always use an Aero port to tune the same enclosure and get a little more out of it if you want a bit more on the low end,and easy enough to do.Just my 0.02cents

 
Id go with at least a 1.4 sealed for a 12 min.As stated, you can always use an Aero port to tune the same enclosure and get a little more out of it if you want a bit more on the low end,and easy enough to do.Just my 0.02cents
I was going for a ported box, what would the advantages of a sealed be? I heard it gives better SQ, but many people recommended I go with a ported instead since I listen to a lot of rap/hip-hop.

 
I was going for a ported box, what would the advantages of a sealed be? I heard it gives better SQ, but many people recommended I go with a ported instead since I listen to a lot of rap/hip-hop.
A sealed enclosure is better than ported in most cases for SQ,and generally needs a bit more power than a ported enclosure.Yet, you can try the sealed enclosure as mentioned, and later port it, and if you dont like the ported, you can seal it back off,or Plug the Aero port easily.Id go sealed first,and try that for a month or so, then try an Aero for another month or so, and listen to the difference,and make my decision of what sounds best.Its always nice to be able to have the choices,and ease of in my opinion.Aeros are so easy to use/install/remove even/or plug off.

 
A sealed enclosure is better than ported in most cases for SQ,and generally needs a bit more power than a ported enclosure.Yet, you can try the sealed enclosure as mentioned, and later port it, and if you dont like the ported, you can seal it back off,or Plug the Aero port easily.Id go sealed first,and try that for a month or so, then try an Aero for another month or so, and listen to the difference,and make my decision of what sounds best.Its always nice to be able to have the choices,and ease of in my opinion.Aeros are so easy to use/install/remove even/or plug off.
Id run the American Bass amp on the sub and maybe look for a two ch amp with less distortion/thd..for the money
Alright, is there any negative to running two amps, from two different companies besides it looking better cosmetically?

I'll check out the aero port thing, apparently there is a 13 page thread on these subs on a different forum, unfortunately it's about the 10" one.

 
I'm going with a single 12 after seeing the box dimensions needed for a 15.
For a 15" I need this-

Vented Volume 2.72 ft.³

Vented F3 30 Hz

This is all I need for a 12"-

Vented Volume 0.98 ft.³

Vented F3 36 Hz

I'm not trying to spend my savings on a more expensive box.
Not sure where those alignments came from, but those don't look right to me. .98 at 36hz is tuned too high and the box is too small for a good SQ build, at least if you want output at or below 30hz at all. 1.5@28-32hz looks alot better, depending on how much port you can comfortably fit as well aswhat you listen to. I def wouldn't go that small for the ported box 1.2 cubes is as small as I'd go. The ported alignment for the Dayton 15 looks pretty close, however, a single 15 sealed will have similar musical output to a 12 ported. The 12 will have an output advantage around tuning, but it won't be a "musical" advantage as it won't have the extra output anywhere else to balance. Taking the 12 up to 1.2 will drop your f3 closer to 30hz, which is where you want it to be in most cases.

 
Not sure where those alignments came from, but those don't look right to me. .98 at 36hz is tuned too high and the box is too small for a good SQ build, at least if you want output at or below 30hz at all. 1.5@28-32hz looks alot better, depending on how much port you can comfortably fit as well aswhat you listen to. I def wouldn't go that small for the ported box 1.2 cubes is as small as I'd go. The ported alignment for the Dayton 15 looks pretty close, however, a single 15 sealed will have similar musical output to a 12 ported. The 12 will have an output advantage around tuning, but it won't be a "musical" advantage as it won't have the extra output anywhere else to balance. Taking the 12 up to 1.2 will drop your f3 closer to 30hz, which is where you want it to be in most cases.
I got them all off PE.

So 1.5^3 between 28-32hz would give the best output for a ported box for the 12" right?

I'm just going to run with a 12" in case in the future I decide to add another 12".

 
Alright, is there any negative to running two amps, from two different companies besides it looking better cosmetically?
I'll check out the aero port thing, apparently there is a 13 page thread on these subs on a different forum, unfortunately it's about the 10" one.
Im running 3 different brands of amps in my truck, and two for the crv.Looks arent important to me as much as performance.I choose the amp for the speaker,and for the money.American Bass has a 2 ch that will perform nicely as well,for the money.I have a VFL 150.4 mini Hybrid from American Bass as well, that sounds very nice for the size and money,if worried of matching amps,and performance.Great amps,and amazing sound/performance for the money.

 
I got them all off PE.
So 1.5^3 between 28-32hz would give the best output for a ported box for the 12" right?

I'm just going to run with a 12" in case in the future I decide to add another 12".
Yeah 1.5 in that area of tuning. For power a clean 500 watts is fine, you can go higher, you'll just have to be careful with your gains as you approach the 1000 watt mark as a amp that powerful could potentially lead to trouble, however so could a 500 watter, it's all in how you set the gains. If you can wire the sub at 2ohms, find an amp that is stable at one ohm. Somewhere around 1400 watts at 1ohm and 700@2ohms. That way, when you get a second sub you can wire down to 1 ohm and already have enough power at both.

 
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