Featured 2018 Toyota Sienna minivan with 2 DB4515R on 2 Taramps Smart 8 Bass

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Cool. I can make some for the inside too. They're right up against the walls, but I could do them the same way as the exterior flares. Something like this for the ones in the corners:
View attachment 66981

What program is that?

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

What program is that?

Solid Edge

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Solid Edge

Looks a lot better than sketch up haha. That's my jam man doing stuff like that, looks awesome. I designed my own aero models in sketchup before

1 sub? I'd wager some gains even with one at the right frequency, with increased airspace and that port area you now enjoy. As much as I like a low tune and flat response sometimes I question the reality when playing music. Any tune under 30hz without a super sub like a Pride S5-18 or similar on like 5K+ ea tends to dig but without spl unless excessive cone and cabin work generally peaks 40hzish in a large cabin for spl. Walled setups are a differnt story.
Just don't do music runs till you become familiar with how it performs. A burp or 2 finding locations or seat placement for now. Focus on that frequency and numbers.

I actually called this with my bud with the SoloX-15s... I did not think the sub was salvageable. Something in the gap was my worry... impossible to clean.
You took that sub nuclear man. I haven't seen the extinguishers deployed since someone was tryin' for 180db and his amps went. That was a few years back at regionals iirc

Idk what you're referencing to playing under 30 but yeah sound to me starts changing quite a bit under 30 hz, like maybe 27 hz or so, somewhere in the 20's like that it seems like it takes a whole different nature or mind state to do Spl. I mean it's still sound but even though we can hear 25 and 30 hz the way the lows act with that long of wavelength seems like it fights building pressure sometimes. Spl with lows the best I've seen are series 6th orders and walled horns. You can get a walled horn to do a 160 in the 20 hz range but it's like a weapon grade vehicle at that point. Just takes so much energy, that cone has to be polarized in one direction for so long, tuning low takes energy out of Spl for sure.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Idk what you're referencing to playing under 30 but yeah sound to me starts changing quite a bit under 30 hz, like maybe 27 hz or so, somewhere in the 20's like that it seems like it takes a whole different nature or mind state to do Spl. I mean it's still sound but even though we can hear 25 and 30 hz the way the lows act with that long of wavelength seems like it fights building pressure sometimes. Spl with lows the best I've seen are series 6th orders and walled horns. You can get a walled horn to do a 160 in the 20 hz range but it's like a weapon grade vehicle at that point. Just takes so much energy, that cone has to be polarized in one direction for so long, tuning low takes energy out of Spl for sure.

I'm in agreement about series 6ths, they do get it done down low. A half octave tuning has been my go to, as exact as I can make it... lol. Sometimes I crunch #'s and adjust volumes to get rid of that .4hz needed to make exact. No wonder I get wound up and need a break when a design is completed.

I was talking about big spl #'s down low. In my experience usually the only way to reach those goals when tuned say 28hz is either a hi-power system on some brutally capable subs or just become King-Kone. No replacement for displacement ya' know?

I love doing 6ths but avoid getting too involved, things like walled coupes for example will have you driving around double checking the measurements given. I like to stick with blowthru 6ths. I'm finishing up another one today for a friend. I'm sure it won't be a brutal as the last one he built but should do great as long as he dosen't slag the coils again.

SoloX-12s this time

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I was talking about big spl #'s down low. In my experience usually the only way to reach those goals when tuned say 28hz is either a hi-power system on some brutally capable subs or just become King-Kone. No replacement for displacement ya' know?

I was hoping for scenario 1, with 8k per and 2 4.5" coils

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I was hoping for scenario 1, with 8k per and 2 4.5" coils

You'll get your 150 I think. Being tuned low makes demos more fun but it will affect ultimate output spl wise.

Test and test some more and you'll get there

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I'm in agreement about series 6ths, they do get it done down low. A half octave tuning has been my go to, as exact as I can make it... lol. Sometimes I crunch #'s and adjust volumes to get rid of that .4hz needed to make exact. No wonder I get wound up and need a break when a design is completed.

I was talking about big spl #'s down low. In my experience usually the only way to reach those goals when tuned say 28hz is either a hi-power system on some brutally capable subs or just become King-Kone. No replacement for displacement ya' know?

I love doing 6ths but avoid getting too involved, things like walled coupes for example will have you driving around double checking the measurements given. I like to stick with blowthru 6ths. I'm finishing up another one today for a friend. I'm sure it won't be a brutal as the last one he built but should do great as long as he dosen't slag the coils again.

SoloX-12s this time

Don't start talking to me about minor adjustments to get decimals right haha I'll get ocd insane, I run my stuff in excel all raw math no rounding with the displacements and such, try to get exact exact. I did an Underseat series 6th for 2 dc 6.5's....idk it's like about as bad as a wall

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I honestly designed mine as I went. I knew roughly what airspace I had, and I made several cardboard mockups to try and figure out how much I could fit. I had to find a way to fit all the batteries, amps, ports, internal airspace, etc.

I had the entire interior (except the roof and trunk lid) done before I picked subs or started building the box. Center console battery bank, 3 way active front, rear speakers, doors deadened, the works.

I think the box looked like this when I settled on 2 15's:

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Don't start talking to me about minor adjustments to get decimals right haha I'll get ocd insane, I run my stuff in excel all raw math no rounding with the displacements and such, try to get exact exact. I did an Underseat series 6th for 2 dc 6.5's....idk it's like about as bad as a wall

Try a 4th in one of those tiny Ferrari's with a folding California top. I ended up specifying .5" Russian birch along with 5/8". Every cut involved a Mitre, Every trick in the book to find airspace too. When it was done the sunroof and trunk wouldn't function so everyone took a breath and stepped back.
Turns out a shirt in the trunk got moved during installation and it was in the way of a limit switch/optical sensor.
2-10's 4th order in a Ferrari... epic

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Try a 4th in one of those tiny Ferrari's with a folding California top. I ended up specifying .5" Russian birch along with 5/8". Every cut involved a Mitre, Every trick in the book to find airspace too. When it was done the sunroof and trunk wouldn't function so everyone took a breath and stepped back.
Turns out a shirt in the trunk got moved during installation and it was in the way of a limit switch/optical sensor.
2-10's 4th order in a Ferrari... epic

That site I used to get my steel baffle CNC machined actually has baltic birch as a material you can specify.

Normally it wouldn't make sense to pay to get wood cnc machined, but I wonder if it would've been useful for something like that with tight tolerances and odd shapes.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

That site I used to get my steel baffle CNC machined actually has baltic birch as a material you can specify.

Normally it wouldn't make sense to pay to get wood cnc machined, but I wonder if it would've been useful for something like that with tight tolerances and odd shapes.

I wouldn't myself, unless it was a hi production line or whatever. Cutting panels, fitting them and producing a one off enclosure is DIY no question. I love those flares done 3D but I'd probably do the jig and heat gun method myself.
Another thing I'd have to learn as well... at almost 60yr old I'm very set in my knowledge.

Btw... Baltic Birch IS like steel in strength in the ways that matter regarding materials. In my opinion far superior acoustically as well. I'd use steel on structural, but 13 ply Russian for the panels... especially the baffle if the budget allows. My bud wanted me to design around Garnica initially... but now Russian 13ply is going to be materials.

1/2 price for Russian 13ply vs Garnica... crazy

 

[angela7123]

Sounds like a killer build, solid gear choices and that sub stage tuned to 28 Hz should hit deep and clean.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Btw... Baltic Birch IS like steel in strength in the ways that matter regarding materials. In my opinion far superior acoustically as well. I'd use steel on structural, but 13 ply Russian for the panels... especially the baffle if the budget allows. My bud wanted me to design around Garnica initially... but now Russian 13ply is going to be materials.

No doubt better acoustically. No where near as strong at the same weight. It can be as strong but you need a lot more of it and it gets heavy and takes more space. I'd probably need a triple baffle, maybe double with my metal frame support. I think the ideal build here would have a layer of steel and a layer of wood for the baffle? But I didn't even use real birch, just the lowes stuff which is half birch half pine, so there could've been some improvement right there.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Sounds like a killer build, solid gear choices and that sub stage tuned to 28 Hz should hit deep and clean.

it slams

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Got the interior flares in. I made them super shallow so there's 6" of clearance between the opening and the wall.

Probably overdid it with the construction adhesive, but I wanted to make sure there was no leaks or vibration.