Featured 2018 Toyota Sienna minivan with 2 DB4515R on 2 Taramps Smart 8 Bass

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Got the interior flares in. I made them super shallow so there's 6" of clearance between the opening and the wall.
View attachment 67310View attachment 67309

Probably overdid it with the construction adhesive, but I wanted to make sure there was no leaks or vibration.

Are those metal rings? I mean what are the rings the sub gaskets sit on?

Nvm just saw the upper post sorry

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Idk how much I'm supposed to talk about this, but I've known of people let's say that did 8 15's in a stock SUV trying to do I think a 160 or something like that in a stock vehicle; the goal was super high Spl. So they had 8 15's on like idk it was prob at least 4-8k per woofer. Because of the way the vehicle cabin acts like an enclosure, they had the ports placed in a specific place in the vehicle, and it was all to try to get as loud as possible in a stock vehicle. Goes back to the double tuning thing where putting a box in a long vehicle like that is sort of like having a tapped tline or horn, where the port and subs, but mostly port, are inside of the vehicle and it changes wave timing. Just keep that in mind, there's math and testing to that for tuning, like I say may see distance from ports to windshield or to mic. May measure that then see wave timing. I'm not a Spl expert just into sound long time, it's just sound stuff.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Are those metal rings? I mean what are the rings the sub gaskets sit on?

Nvm just saw the upper post sorry

cnc machined from 1/4" steel like the baffle.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Idk how much I'm supposed to talk about this, but I've known of people let's say that did 8 15's in a stock SUV trying to do I think a 160 or something like that in a stock vehicle; the goal was super high Spl. So they had 8 15's on like idk it was prob at least 4-8k per woofer. Because of the way the vehicle cabin acts like an enclosure, they had the ports placed in a specific place in the vehicle, and it was all to try to get as loud as possible in a stock vehicle. Goes back to the double tuning thing where putting a box in a long vehicle like that is sort of like having a tapped tline or horn, where the port and subs, but mostly port, are inside of the vehicle and it changes wave timing. Just keep that in mind, there's math and testing to that for tuning, like I say may see distance from ports to windshield or to mic. May measure that then see wave timing. I'm not a Spl expert just into sound long time, it's just sound stuff.

Yeah I need to move my seats around and play with my meter and find the best place for it. 150 is a hell of a lot easier than 160. How stock was it? I can't believe a car with no interior reinforcements like a stripper pole and wood paneling could get that loud and not tear to pieces

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Yeah I need to move my seats around and play with my meter and find the best place for it. 150 is a hell of a lot easier than 160. How stock was it? I can't believe a car with no interior reinforcements like a stripper pole and wood paneling could get that loud and not tear to pieces

cnc machined from 1/4" steel like the baffle

I'd default to a higher tuning myself honestly. Tune 30hz and let her rip. 32hz is a fine tuning btw for something like a DB 9515. I'd shorten the ports a little and find the peak after.
Ultra low tuning "feels loud" but won't hit the number user envisioned in my exp. 149db at 30hz is awesome so don't misunderstand me but 151+ at 35hz is a step above, especially to people who demo the thing. I've competed against many who hit 148db at 30hz... awesome #'s if you ask me. But they always walk away scratching their head.
Then I demo 150+ peaking 47hz with a 152+ score and see eyes open.
4-5hz at that level is a marked difference... loud becomes violent...
I'd set goals realistically if tuned 28hz with lowish port area. In my experience no compromises gets that # especially with capable subs.
I still predict 150+ at frequency but even better #'s can be achieved with a slightly higher tuning.

My .02

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Yeah I need to move my seats around and play with my meter and find the best place for it. 150 is a hell of a lot easier than 160. How stock was it? I can't believe a car with no interior reinforcements like a stripper pole and wood paneling could get that loud and not tear to pieces

Well idk if they got quite to 160, don't remember, but that was the goal. It was 100% stock everything, just batteries and subs and box thrown in the back.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I'd default to a higher tuning myself honestly. Tune 30hz and let her rip. 32hz is a fine tuning btw for something like a DB 9515. I'd shorten the ports a little and find the peak after.
Ultra low tuning "feels loud" but won't hit the number user envisioned in my exp. 149db at 30hz is awesome so don't misunderstand me but 151+ at 35hz is a step above, especially to people who demo the thing. I've competed against many who hit 148db at 30hz... awesome #'s if you ask me. But they always walk away scratching their head.
Then I demo 150+ peaking 47hz with a 152+ score and see eyes open.
4-5hz at that level is a marked difference... loud becomes violent...
I'd set goals realistically if tuned 28hz with lowish port area. In my experience no compromises gets that # especially with capable subs.
I still predict 150+ at frequency but even better #'s can be achieved with a slightly higher tuning.

My .02

Man, I had a lot of customers I did low boxes for, I mean some as low as 20 hz basically. Getting SPL is like a different arena with low lows . The box styles change, all that. Sound just changes when it's that low. We've stated this before just like you say peaking at 47 hz is totally different ballgame. It depends on the vehicle too, bigger vehicles might be able to realistically benefit from lower tuning sometimes because of the length of the vehicle. Like flat walls are so great because you can tune how far the wall is away from the mic. Like a 45 hz 1/4 wave is 6.25 long. 35 hz 1/4 wave is 8 feet long. 25 hz 1/4 wave is 11.25 long. So just in general I would tend to expect shorter cabin vehicles to peak higher, where a short cabin vehicle may not even be able to fit a 1/4 wavelength in below a certain frequency, which if you're trying to play lows, I would expect that to greatly hurt Spl. But that's just fundamental harmonics. Like if you're trying to SPL peak in the 20's but you can't 1/4 wave resonate the whole cabin, then raise your tuning so the cabin length and box positioning works for you. I got too sick before I could test it all out myself wish I could add more lol

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

150 is a hell of a lot easier than 160. How stock was it? I can't believe a car with no interior reinforcements like a stripper pole and wood paneling could get that loud and not tear to pieces

Hard to believe? Single 1750w 18" on a 4K wired down, 5.5ft3 enclosure /w/ a 10" Aero. No stripper poles, just cheapo Noico and a little quarter wave theory tuning-wise. 152+ on a single sub in stock 3K and it still did 149+ on 30sec music runs. Sometimes less is more in my exp... the firewall flexed, hood rippled and the hinges failed on the hatch during a run but failed? The flex was half the juice... and nobody saw it coming from a plain ol' small white Suv.

Man, I had a lot of customers I did low boxes for, I mean some as low as 20 hz basically. Getting SPL is like a different arena with low lows . The box styles change, all that. Sound just changes when it's that low. We've stated this before just like you say peaking at 47 hz is totally different ballgame. It depends on the vehicle too, bigger vehicles might be able to realistically benefit from lower tuning sometimes because of the length of the vehicle. Like flat walls are so great because you can tune how far the wall is away from the mic. Like a 45 hz 1/4 wave is 6.25 long. 35 hz 1/4 wave is 8 feet long. 25 hz 1/4 wave is 11.25 long. So just in general I would tend to expect shorter cabin vehicles to peak higher, where a short cabin vehicle may not even be able to fit a 1/4 wavelength in below a certain frequency, which if you're trying to play lows, I would expect that to greatly hurt Spl. Like if you're trying to SPL peak in the 20's but you can't 1/4 wave resonate the whole cabin, then raise your tuning so the cabin length and box positioning works for you.

Agreed but in my experience tuning affects ultimate spl more than reinforcement until cone and power overcome everything. At that point you probably have a b-pillar wall or no-wall setup with multiple 15's on 20K.
1/4 waves are great to incorporate into any tuning but you need to factor in reality vs desires (user music vs #'s)... I always temporize with a slightly higher tuning in my own vehicles as I'm somebody who listens mainly to actual music. Even customers who list an Epicenter as part of their signal chain I advise a 40hz center frequency with a 30hz tuning. That 1/4 wave stuff again... I always try to hedge on the low side tuning myself /w/ a weather eye to cabin frequency. Cabin reinforcement can bring peak down from that point.
Just my thought process when advising on goals. I don't always lay it all out but do consider the vehicle, cone, power and install when addressing goals. Usually tuning is the fastest way to achieve goals if everything else is solid.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Hard to believe? Single 1750w 18" on a 4K wired down, 5.5ft3 enclosure /w/ a 10" Aero. No stripper poles, just cheapo Noico and a little quarter wave theory tuning-wise. 152+ on a single sub in stock 3K and it still did 149+ on 30sec music runs. Sometimes less is more in my exp... the firewall flexed, hood rippled and the hinges failed on the hatch during a run but failed? The flex was half the juice... and nobody saw it coming from a plain ol' small white Suv.

Agreed but in my experience tuning affects ultimate spl more than reinforcement until cone and power overcome everything. At that point you probably have a b-pillar wall or no-wall setup with multiple 15's on 20K.
1/4 waves are great to incorporate into any tuning but you need to factor in reality vs desires (user music vs #'s)... I always temporize with a slightly higher tuning in my own vehicles as I'm somebody who listens mainly to actual music. Even customers who list an Epicenter as part of their signal chain I advise a 40hz center frequency with a 30hz tuning. That 1/4 wave stuff again... I always try to hedge on the low side tuning myself /w/ a weather eye to cabin frequency. Cabin reinforcement can bring peak down from that point.
Just my thought process when advising on goals. I don't always lay it all out but do consider the vehicle, cone, power and install when addressing goals. Usually tuning is the fastest way to achieve goals if everything else is solid.

I guess I just mean if he gets stuck in a spot he can't get past. If there's a point where you're at max limits like in a class but you haven't maybe considered factors like I was saying, then maybe it could push it over the goal line. But all of this is why it's fun haha. Idk if you look inside the highest Spl vehicles you can see the wave guiding in those, all the distances matter because of wave phasing within the cabin itself. Just stuff to consider

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Bit of a boring update, but I added denim insulation and foam weatherstrip to my front doors. I was getting a bit of glass rattle and rattle from the plastic panel. I wanted to fill the biggest void in the panel with it so it would be better damped. I have the 8" midbass in the doors crossed from 80-400 hz. The subs are low-passed at 60.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I think the blown subs motor is trashed. The new recone lasted maybe 1.5 hour on moderate power, just trying to break it in. From the scoring on the coil I think it still wasn't clean enough. Disappointed I lost another recone to trying to salvage it. The pole is also visibly shifted ever so slightly, there was no rubbing issues but it may perform worse idk.

It seems like the only way to bring it back would be to demagnatize it, disassemble it, clean it, reassemble it, and recharge it.

At this point, I'm considering selling the other db4515r and getting a new different pair.

I also reached out to deaf bonce a few days ago and haven't heard back. I was mainly just curious if they knew what to do here.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I think the blown subs motor is trashed. The new recone lasted maybe 1.5 hour on moderate power, just trying to break it in.

At this point, I'm considering selling the other db4515r and getting a new different pair.

That maniac with the 2 soloX 15s just retired the set after he literally slagged the coils until liquid metal was dripping out of the motor. I should say told him so but... Lol ... He knew what'd happen eventually. He just replaced the subs with new.
I warned him it'd be impossible to clean out the gap after slagging the coils. Hey... I hear magic unicorn tears can lubricate the problem.
Sorry... Old joke
I'm sorry trial and error cost you. $ is no joke

 

[Deiimos]

I think the blown subs motor is trashed. The new recone lasted maybe 1.5 hour on moderate power, just trying to break it in. From the scoring on the coil I think it still wasn't clean enough. Disappointed I lost another recone to trying to salvage it. The pole is also visibly shifted ever so slightly, there was no rubbing issues but it may perform worse idk.

It seems like the only way to bring it back would be to demagnatize it, disassemble it, clean it, reassemble it, and recharge it.

At this point, I'm considering selling the other db4515r and getting a new different pair.

I also reached out to deaf bonce a few days ago and haven't heard back. I was mainly just curious if they knew what to do here.

Probably best to just get new subs at this point, but did you blow out the voice coil gap with a real air compressor? That can get a lot out if you have the pressure at 120 psi or so. And look in there with a good light and magnifying glass if needed. I don’t think I’d waste anymore money on that sub, looked like it burned up pretty good, sell it for parts to somebody that likes to tinker. At the price of re-cones, that’s just more money down the drain if it fries again.

I hate when companies don't reply to simple inquiries. Granted its only been a few days you said, but some never do. That alone would make me go with a different brand.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Probably best to just get new subs at this point, but did you blow out the voice coil gap with a real air compressor? That can get a lot out if you have the pressure at 120 psi or so. And look in there with a good light and magnifying glass if needed. I don’t think I’d waste anymore money on that sub, looked like it burned up pretty good, sell it for parts to somebody that likes to tinker. At the price of re-cones, that’s just more money down the drain if it fries again.

The person I paid to do it the second time used his shop air on it. I think because it's forced cooling instead of having vents on the bottom, its especially hard to clean, maybe impossible without disassembly on this one. He charged me $80 which is good, but the recones are $350 so that stung

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Got a pair of used DTX Dreamsicle v1s on marketplace. They sound great.

Eventually, I want to build something custom to put in this box, but finding parts is difficult, so I went ahead and bought these to use for the time being.