Wiring design

[Jowi77]

Hello all!
I have finally obtained all my products for my Audio setup. I realise it’s probably not perfect or the most expensive setup, nonetheless I need much help installing it. I have never done anything like car audio before and I have only been researching and trying to get my head around it for about a month.

I will put a picture of my wiring diagram which is still not complete. I have a few questions regarding it and I would love some help. I have labelled each part with a number and that number will have a link to the product with some basic info about it to make it easier for everyone to help me.


Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet

Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that

Q3. Where do i earth!?!

Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp

Q5. Am I missing anything?



1. Battery
2. Fuse
3. Head Unit: Sony XAV-AX5000
4. 4 Gauge Power Wire
5. 8 Gauge Power Wire (don’t currently have)
6. Amp 1: Sony XMN1004 (4 channel, 1000W Peak, 70 Watt RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm, 85 Watt RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohm, 175 Watt RMS x 2 @ 4 Ohm bridged)
7. RCA ( I have 2x 5m cables)
8. R-S65C.2 (RMS 100, PEAK 300, 4 ohms)
9. Tweeters from the speaker pack ( R-S65C.2)
10. Cross over from the speaker pack ( R-S65C.2)
11. Speaker wire (5m worth)
12. Power distribution block (haven’t purchase yet)
13. Mono Amp: Sony XM-GS100
14. Subwoofer:Sony BOXGSW121D 12" DVC
15. Remote turn on wire (not sure what I need for this)

Thanks in advance guys!

Click to read more...

 

[02WS6]

Oh boy, a lot to unpack here, I'll do my best to help. All links are US based, find your Aussie equivalent:

Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet

ANL Fuse holder with 150 Amp fuse find something like this on AUS Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that

You definitely want to get a distribution block. I wouldn't recommend cutting and running dual 4 unless your original wire was 2 or 0/1 gauge. 4 split to 8 would be better in your situation. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q3. Where do i earth!?!

Any unpainted area where you're mounting your amps. The shorter the length of the ground the better. Many will terminate on their lower seatbelt bolt or locate where the current vehicle wiring harness has a ground and use that. Without specifically knowing where the amps will be placed and what kind of car it is, this is usually figured out on an install by install basis. You want any unpainted heavy bolt currently on the car as best practice. Use an 8AWG Cable lug to terminate your wire and connect to wherever you decide to ground. Make sure the bolt is re-torqued back to factory/safety spec.

Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp

YMMV but I don't expect most OEM speakers will handle the load coming out of an aftermarket amp, you can run them but can't guarantee how long they will last at higher volumes. I would just plan to either not run rears (as many here don't) or budget for another pair if you want to keep them.

Q5. Am I missing anything?

As mentioned earlier - ANL Fuse block with 150 Amp fuse, 4 AWG to double 8AWG distribution block.

1. 4 AWG copper cable lug to connect your power wire to your battery
2. 2, 8AWG copper cable lugs (to ground your amps)
3. 4 AWG and 8 AWG heat shrink for lugs (unless you have a welding store do it for you then they should be able to add this)
4. misc sized Fork/ring terminals to connect power/speaker/REM wires to your amp(s) - Sized to match your speaker wire/amp inputs.
8AWG - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20
Pack for other sizes amp connections - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20
5. Crimp tool for lugs/terminals (You might find a local welding shop who can crimp your 4/8 AWG lugs for you (I'd recommend a crimp tool for your smaller fork terminals for speakers/REM wire
6. 1 Inline wire splice to split your REM turn on wire (unless you plan to split at one amp and run to the other)
7. REM Wire - Any small gauge <16AWG. Most will just run a 18-22AWG stranded wire or extra speaker wire. I don't like using speaker wire because it makes it hard to trace if troubleshooting an issue.

Thats all I can think of for now, but all of these little connectors while they may add up, really add to the professionalism of an install and make sure you're getting good connections. While limiting any chance of a short or intermittent contact. Just double check all of your crimps by pulling on your wire after crimping them down. Don't cheap out on the tool either, the better the crimp tool the better the connection the wire makes. Something like this would be recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Now, you can run all of these connections without lugs/fork/ring terminals and just shove the wires into their respective amp ports if you're on a budget but all of these wire terminals will protect the wires and provide a better connection while providing you a cleaner looking install.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Oh boy, a lot to unpack here, I'll do my best to help. All links are US based, find your Aussie equivalent:

Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet

ANL Fuse holder with 150 Amp fuse find something like this on AUS Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that

You definitely want to get a distribution block. I wouldn't recommend cutting and runnin dual 4 unless your original wire was 2 or 0/1 gauge. 4 split to 8 would be better in your situation. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q3. Where do i earth!?!

Any unpainted area where you're mounting your amps. The shorter the length of the ground the better. Many will terminate on their lower seatbelt bolt or locate where the current vehicle wiring harness has a ground and use that. Without specifically knowing where the amps will be placed and what kind of car it is, this is usually figured out on an install by install basis. You want any unpainted heavy bolt currently on the car as best practice. Use an 8AWG Cable lug to terminate your wire and connect to wherever you decide to ground. Make sure the bolt is re-torqued back to factory/safety spec.

Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp

YMMV but I don't expect most OEM speakers will handle the load coming out of an aftermarket amp, you can run them but can't guarantee how long they will last at higher volumes. I would just plan to either not run rears (as many here don't) or budget for another pair if you want to keep them.

Q5. Am I missing anything?

As mentioned earlier - ANL Fuse block with 150 Amp fuse, 4 AWG to double 8AWG distribution block.

1. 4 AWG copper cable lug to connect your power wire to your battery
2. 2, 8AWG copper cable lugs (to ground your amps)
3. 4 AWG and 8 AWG heat shrink for lugs (unless you have a welding store do it for you then they should be able to add this)
4. misc sized Fork/ring terminals to connect power/speaker/REM wires to your amp(s) - Sized to match your speaker wire/amp inputs.
8AWG - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20
Pack for other sizes amp connections - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20
5. Crimp tool for lugs/terminals (You might find a local welding shop who can crimp your 4/8 AWG lugs for you (I'd recommend a crimp tool for your smaller fork terminals for speakers/REM wire
6. 1 Inline wire splice to split your REM turn on wire (unless you plan to split at one amp and run to the other)

Thats all I can think of for now, but all of these little connectors while they may add up, really add to the professionalism of an install and make sure you're getting good connections. While limiting any chance of a short or intermittent contact. Just double check all of your crimps by pulling on your wire after crimping them down. Don't cheap out on the tool either, the better the crimp tool the better the connection the wire makes. Something like this would be recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Now, you can run all of these connections without lugs/fork/ring terminals and just shove the wires into their respective amp ports if you're on a budget but all of these wire terminals will protect the wires and provide a better connection while providing you a cleaner looking install.

Very impressive answer. Much respect!

 

[02WS6]

Also DO NOT run your power wire and RCA's together. This will usually cause interference and buzzing noises. Maybe this is old school but I still run my battery cable down the battery side of the car and my RCA's down the other side.

I would also recommend taking a look at this youtuber and reviewing some of his install videos, not everything will apply for you but it will also give you an idea of specific area's/tasks involved: https://www.youtube.com/user/CarAudioFabrication/videos

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Oh boy, a lot to unpack here, I'll do my best to help. All links are US based, find your Aussie equivalent:

Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet

ANL Fuse holder with 150 Amp fuse find something like this on AUS Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that

You definitely want to get a distribution block. I wouldn't recommend cutting and running dual 4 unless your original wire was 2 or 0/1 gauge. 4 split to 8 would be better in your situation. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q3. Where do i earth!?!

Any unpainted area where you're mounting your amps. The shorter the length of the ground the better. Many will terminate on their lower seatbelt bolt or locate where the current vehicle wiring harness has a ground and use that. Without specifically knowing where the amps will be placed and what kind of car it is, this is usually figured out on an install by install basis. You want any unpainted heavy bolt currently on the car as best practice. Use an 8AWG Cable lug to terminate your wire and connect to wherever you decide to ground. Make sure the bolt is re-torqued back to factory/safety spec.

Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp

YMMV but I don't expect most OEM speakers will handle the load coming out of an aftermarket amp, you can run them but can't guarantee how long they will last at higher volumes. I would just plan to either not run rears (as many here don't) or budget for another pair if you want to keep them.

Q5. Am I missing anything?

As mentioned earlier - ANL Fuse block with 150 Amp fuse, 4 AWG to double 8AWG distribution block.

1. 4 AWG copper cable lug to connect your power wire to your battery
2. 2, 8AWG copper cable lugs (to ground your amps)
3. 4 AWG and 8 AWG heat shrink for lugs (unless you have a welding store do it for you then they should be able to add this)
4. misc sized Fork/ring terminals to connect power/speaker/REM wires to your amp(s) - Sized to match your speaker wire/amp inputs.
8AWG - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20
Pack for other sizes amp connections - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20
5. Crimp tool for lugs/terminals (You might find a local welding shop who can crimp your 4/8 AWG lugs for you (I'd recommend a crimp tool for your smaller fork terminals for speakers/REM wire
6. 1 Inline wire splice to split your REM turn on wire (unless you plan to split at one amp and run to the other)
7. REM Wire - Any small gauge <16AWG. Most will just run a 18-22AWG stranded wire or extra speaker wire. I don't like using speaker wire because it makes it hard to trace if troubleshooting an issue.

Thats all I can think of for now, but all of these little connectors while they may add up, really add to the professionalism of an install and make sure you're getting good connections. While limiting any chance of a short or intermittent contact. Just double check all of your crimps by pulling on your wire after crimping them down. Don't cheap out on the tool either, the better the crimp tool the better the connection the wire makes. Something like this would be recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Now, you can run all of these connections without lugs/fork/ring terminals and just shove the wires into their respective amp ports if you're on a budget but all of these wire terminals will protect the wires and provide a better connection while providing you a cleaner looking install.

Very impressed that you took the time to answer said question. Every question asked on here, my first thought is, can I answer honestly without being ridiculed by everybody. If OP wants the best available Skar, pre-fab, or rear fill you can't even answer his question. Even, if you preface your answer with a disclaimer. That's why this place is dead. I was a member here years ago, and, it was different. If you don't give an audiophile ******* expert car audio response, then, the post ends up killing the responder with retard, dumb ass, or go kill yourself.

 

[02WS6]

Very impressed that you took the time to answer said question. Every question asked on here, my first thought is, can I answer honestly without being ridiculed by everybody. If OP wants the best available Skar, pre-fab, or rear fill you can't even answer his question. Even, if you preface your answer with a disclaimer. That's why this place is dead. I was a member here years ago, and, it was different. If you don't give an audiophile ******* expert car audio response, then, the post ends up killing the responder with retard, dumb ass, or go kill yourself.

Thank you, now please stop vomiting your insecurities into other threads.

 

[Jowi77]

Oh boy, a lot to unpack here, I'll do my best to help. All links are US based, find your Aussie equivalent:

Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet

ANL Fuse holder with 150 Amp fuse find something like this on AUS Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that

You definitely want to get a distribution block. I wouldn't recommend cutting and running dual 4 unless your original wire was 2 or 0/1 gauge. 4 split to 8 would be better in your situation. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q3. Where do i earth!?!

Any unpainted area where you're mounting your amps. The shorter the length of the ground the better. Many will terminate on their lower seatbelt bolt or locate where the current vehicle wiring harness has a ground and use that. Without specifically knowing where the amps will be placed and what kind of car it is, this is usually figured out on an install by install basis. You want any unpainted heavy bolt currently on the car as best practice. Use an 8AWG Cable lug to terminate your wire and connect to wherever you decide to ground. Make sure the bolt is re-torqued back to factory/safety spec.

Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp

YMMV but I don't expect most OEM speakers will handle the load coming out of an aftermarket amp, you can run them but can't guarantee how long they will last at higher volumes. I would just plan to either not run rears (as many here don't) or budget for another pair if you want to keep them.

Q5. Am I missing anything?

As mentioned earlier - ANL Fuse block with 150 Amp fuse, 4 AWG to double 8AWG distribution block.

1. 4 AWG copper cable lug to connect your power wire to your battery
2. 2, 8AWG copper cable lugs (to ground your amps)
3. 4 AWG and 8 AWG heat shrink for lugs (unless you have a welding store do it for you then they should be able to add this)
4. misc sized Fork/ring terminals to connect power/speaker/REM wires to your amp(s) - Sized to match your speaker wire/amp inputs.
8AWG - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20
Pack for other sizes amp connections - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20
5. Crimp tool for lugs/terminals (You might find a local welding shop who can crimp your 4/8 AWG lugs for you (I'd recommend a crimp tool for your smaller fork terminals for speakers/REM wire
6. 1 Inline wire splice to split your REM turn on wire (unless you plan to split at one amp and run to the other)
7. REM Wire - Any small gauge <16AWG. Most will just run a 18-22AWG stranded wire or extra speaker wire. I don't like using speaker wire because it makes it hard to trace if troubleshooting an issue.

Thats all I can think of for now, but all of these little connectors while they may add up, really add to the professionalism of an install and make sure you're getting good connections. While limiting any chance of a short or intermittent contact. Just double check all of your crimps by pulling on your wire after crimping them down. Don't cheap out on the tool either, the better the crimp tool the better the connection the wire makes. Something like this would be recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Now, you can run all of these connections without lugs/fork/ring terminals and just shove the wires into their respective amp ports if you're on a budget but all of these wire terminals will protect the wires and provide a better connection while providing you a cleaner looking install.

Oh boy, a lot to unpack here, I'll do my best to help. All links are US based, find your Aussie equivalent:

Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet

ANL Fuse holder with 150 Amp fuse find something like this on AUS Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that

You definitely want to get a distribution block. I wouldn't recommend cutting and running dual 4 unless your original wire was 2 or 0/1 gauge. 4 split to 8 would be better in your situation. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Q3. Where do i earth!?!

Any unpainted area where you're mounting your amps. The shorter the length of the ground the better. Many will terminate on their lower seatbelt bolt or locate where the current vehicle wiring harness has a ground and use that. Without specifically knowing where the amps will be placed and what kind of car it is, this is usually figured out on an install by install basis. You want any unpainted heavy bolt currently on the car as best practice. Use an 8AWG Cable lug to terminate your wire and connect to wherever you decide to ground. Make sure the bolt is re-torqued back to factory/safety spec.

Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp

YMMV but I don't expect most OEM speakers will handle the load coming out of an aftermarket amp, you can run them but can't guarantee how long they will last at higher volumes. I would just plan to either not run rears (as many here don't) or budget for another pair if you want to keep them.

Q5. Am I missing anything?

As mentioned earlier - ANL Fuse block with 150 Amp fuse, 4 AWG to double 8AWG distribution block.

1. 4 AWG copper cable lug to connect your power wire to your battery
2. 2, 8AWG copper cable lugs (to ground your amps)
3. 4 AWG and 8 AWG heat shrink for lugs (unless you have a welding store do it for you then they should be able to add this)
4. misc sized Fork/ring terminals to connect power/speaker/REM wires to your amp(s) - Sized to match your speaker wire/amp inputs.
8AWG - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20
Pack for other sizes amp connections - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20
5. Crimp tool for lugs/terminals (You might find a local welding shop who can crimp your 4/8 AWG lugs for you (I'd recommend a crimp tool for your smaller fork terminals for speakers/REM wire
6. 1 Inline wire splice to split your REM turn on wire (unless you plan to split at one amp and run to the other)
7. REM Wire - Any small gauge <16AWG. Most will just run a 18-22AWG stranded wire or extra speaker wire. I don't like using speaker wire because it makes it hard to trace if troubleshooting an issue.

Thats all I can think of for now, but all of these little connectors while they may add up, really add to the professionalism of an install and make sure you're getting good connections. While limiting any chance of a short or intermittent contact. Just double check all of your crimps by pulling on your wire after crimping them down. Don't cheap out on the tool either, the better the crimp tool the better the connection the wire makes. Something like this would be recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Now, you can run all of these connections without lugs/fork/ring terminals and just shove the wires into their respective amp ports if you're on a budget but all of these wire terminals will protect the wires and provide a better connection while providing you a cleaner looking install.

this fuse came with the wiring kit, it’s 100, will that do? It also came with those prongs for the speaker wire.

the kit also came with an earth wires that has the hoop on it

if that’s all then all I’d need is the distribution box and the Splice for the remote turn on along with some 8 gauge power wire.



thanks heaps for your help!


Th

 

[02WS6]

this fuse came with the wiring kit, it’s 100, will that do? It also came with those prongs for the speaker wire.

the kit also came with an earth wires that has the hoop on it

if that’s all then all I’d need is the distribution box and the Splice for the remote turn on along with some 8 gauge power wire.



thanks heaps for your help!


ThView attachment 20088

100 Amp will do just fine. - 4AWG to battery, cut and wire fuse inline somewhere flat in the engine bay, then run 4AWG to your distro block and depending on amp placement, run 8AWG from there to your amps.

Just remember that is an amp kit and usually does not include wire termination fork/rings for your speaker or REM wires. It has termination for your power wires.

Oh, and you're welcome!

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

View attachment 20082

Thank you, now please stop vomiting your insecurities into other threads.

Killing the gif game tonight my friend.

 

[Jowi77]

100 Amp will do just fine. - 4AWG to battery, cut and wire fuse inline somewhere flat in the engine bay, then run 4AWG to your distro block and depending on amp placement, run 8AWG from there to your amps.

Just remember that is an amp kit and usually does not include wire termination fork/rings for your speaker or REM wires. It has termination for your power wires.

Oh, and you're welcome!

One more question, sorry haha. So with the earth. Do I have to split that to both amps? It’s a 4 gauge and pretty small and my amps will be further away from each other than the length of the earth cable

 

[02WS6]

Killing the gif game tonight my friend.

Been around forums for far to long, have quite the repository built up now for reaction gifs. Helps provide tone in a text based world. Maybe I've just got to many hobbies, at least that is what the wife thinks.

 

[02WS6]

One more question, sorry haha. So with the earth. Do I have to split that to both amps? It’s a 4 gauge and pretty small and my amps will be further away from each other than the length of the earth cable

You wont use the 4 gauge earth wire because you're splitting power to two different amps.

Wire it like this:
Battery to 4AWG to ANL Fuse back to 4AWG then Distro Block then 8AWG power to each amp, then individual 8AWG Earth from each amp to their own grounds in the car, keep these as short as possible. Less than one meter, half-meter if possible.

For example: Many will wire their mid-amp under the seat of the car, so you'd run your 4AWG and distro block here and then connect amp and ground amp to a lower seatbelt bolt, then run your other 8AWG power to your trunk and ground your Sub amp in the trunk.

 

[02WS6]

One more question, sorry haha. So with the earth. Do I have to split that to both amps? It’s a 4 gauge and pretty small and my amps will be further away from each other than the length of the earth cable

Maybe this will help - Quick rough wiring diagram for the power wires on the amp's. Change wire lengths for whatever works best for your install.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

What trouble? More dislikes?

You've been warned.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

People on here are telling me to kill myself, and, it's my problem?

No one told you that.