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<blockquote data-quote="02WS6" data-source="post: 8693010" data-attributes="member: 678581"><p>Oh boy, a lot to unpack here, I'll do my best to help. All links are US based, find your Aussie equivalent:</p><p></p><p>Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet</p><p></p><p>ANL Fuse holder with 150 Amp fuse find something like this on AUS Amazon: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p></p><p>Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that</p><p></p><p>You definitely want to get a distribution block. I wouldn't recommend cutting and running dual 4 unless your original wire was 2 or 0/1 gauge. 4 split to 8 would be better in your situation. Something like this: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p></p><p>Q3. Where do i earth!?!</p><p></p><p>Any unpainted area where you're mounting your amps. The shorter the length of the ground the better. Many will terminate on their lower seatbelt bolt or locate where the current vehicle wiring harness has a ground and use that. Without specifically knowing where the amps will be placed and what kind of car it is, this is usually figured out on an install by install basis. You want any unpainted heavy bolt currently on the car as best practice. Use an 8AWG Cable lug to terminate your wire and connect to wherever you decide to ground. Make sure the bolt is re-torqued back to factory/safety spec.</p><p></p><p>Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp</p><p></p><p>YMMV but I don't expect most OEM speakers will handle the load coming out of an aftermarket amp, you can run them but can't guarantee how long they will last at higher volumes. I would just plan to either not run rears (as many here don't) or budget for another pair if you want to keep them.</p><p></p><p>Q5. Am I missing anything?</p><p></p><p>As mentioned earlier - ANL Fuse block with 150 Amp fuse, 4 AWG to double 8AWG distribution block.</p><p></p><p>1. 4 AWG copper cable lug to connect your power wire to your battery</p><p>2. 2, 8AWG copper cable lugs (to ground your amps)</p><p>3. 4 AWG and 8 AWG heat shrink for lugs (unless you have a welding store do it for you then they should be able to add this)</p><p>4. misc sized Fork/ring terminals to connect power/speaker/REM wires to your amp(s) - Sized to match your speaker wire/amp inputs.</p><p>8AWG - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p>Pack for other sizes amp connections - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p>5. Crimp tool for lugs/terminals (You might find a local welding shop who can crimp your 4/8 AWG lugs for you (I'd recommend a crimp tool for your smaller fork terminals for speakers/REM wire</p><p>6. 1 Inline wire splice to split your REM turn on wire (unless you plan to split at one amp and run to the other)</p><p>7. REM Wire - Any small gauge <16AWG. Most will just run a 18-22AWG stranded wire or extra speaker wire. I don't like using speaker wire because it makes it hard to trace if troubleshooting an issue.</p><p></p><p>Thats all I can think of for now, but all of these little connectors while they may add up, really add to the professionalism of an install and make sure you're getting good connections. While limiting any chance of a short or intermittent contact. Just double check all of your crimps by pulling on your wire after crimping them down. Don't cheap out on the tool either, the better the crimp tool the better the connection the wire makes. Something like this would be recommended: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p></p><p>Now, you can run all of these connections without lugs/fork/ring terminals and just shove the wires into their respective amp ports if you're on a budget but all of these wire terminals will protect the wires and provide a better connection while providing you a cleaner looking install.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="02WS6, post: 8693010, member: 678581"] Oh boy, a lot to unpack here, I'll do my best to help. All links are US based, find your Aussie equivalent: Q1. What fuse do I need on my power distribution block as I Haven’t bought that yet ANL Fuse holder with 150 Amp fuse find something like this on AUS Amazon: [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9M4OI1/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] Q2.When distributing the 4 gauge wire so I can power both amps, does it need to split to to 8 gauge or can I just chop the 4 gauge wire I have and use that You definitely want to get a distribution block. I wouldn't recommend cutting and running dual 4 unless your original wire was 2 or 0/1 gauge. 4 split to 8 would be better in your situation. Something like this: [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCDG9JC/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] Q3. Where do i earth!?! Any unpainted area where you're mounting your amps. The shorter the length of the ground the better. Many will terminate on their lower seatbelt bolt or locate where the current vehicle wiring harness has a ground and use that. Without specifically knowing where the amps will be placed and what kind of car it is, this is usually figured out on an install by install basis. You want any unpainted heavy bolt currently on the car as best practice. Use an 8AWG Cable lug to terminate your wire and connect to wherever you decide to ground. Make sure the bolt is re-torqued back to factory/safety spec. Q4. Can I use my OEM Speakers for the rear and hook them up to the amp YMMV but I don't expect most OEM speakers will handle the load coming out of an aftermarket amp, you can run them but can't guarantee how long they will last at higher volumes. I would just plan to either not run rears (as many here don't) or budget for another pair if you want to keep them. Q5. Am I missing anything? As mentioned earlier - ANL Fuse block with 150 Amp fuse, 4 AWG to double 8AWG distribution block. 1. 4 AWG copper cable lug to connect your power wire to your battery 2. 2, 8AWG copper cable lugs (to ground your amps) 3. 4 AWG and 8 AWG heat shrink for lugs (unless you have a welding store do it for you then they should be able to add this) 4. misc sized Fork/ring terminals to connect power/speaker/REM wires to your amp(s) - Sized to match your speaker wire/amp inputs. 8AWG - [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXTDPF/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] Pack for other sizes amp connections - [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4RAVI0/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] 5. Crimp tool for lugs/terminals (You might find a local welding shop who can crimp your 4/8 AWG lugs for you (I'd recommend a crimp tool for your smaller fork terminals for speakers/REM wire 6. 1 Inline wire splice to split your REM turn on wire (unless you plan to split at one amp and run to the other) 7. REM Wire - Any small gauge <16AWG. Most will just run a 18-22AWG stranded wire or extra speaker wire. I don't like using speaker wire because it makes it hard to trace if troubleshooting an issue. Thats all I can think of for now, but all of these little connectors while they may add up, really add to the professionalism of an install and make sure you're getting good connections. While limiting any chance of a short or intermittent contact. Just double check all of your crimps by pulling on your wire after crimping them down. Don't cheap out on the tool either, the better the crimp tool the better the connection the wire makes. Something like this would be recommended: [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] Now, you can run all of these connections without lugs/fork/ring terminals and just shove the wires into their respective amp ports if you're on a budget but all of these wire terminals will protect the wires and provide a better connection while providing you a cleaner looking install. [/QUOTE]
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