Why is my voltage drop so awful?

Honestly, I didn't know the first thing about soldering, I just started doing it on all my lugs one day. I didn't know what a cold solder joint was or what causes it until you mentioned it in this thread. After having learned a thing or two I'm sure that my technique has improved, and I should resolder these terminals.
Can old solder or lugs that have been reused multiple times cause this?
Solder becomes more brittle every time it is heated and cooled. The answer is yes. It certainly could be the problem. I would have to suggest that you test with just crimped lugs first. I'd be willing to bet that your problem goes away. Then if you want soldered wires do it with all new lugs and new solder. ALSO: This part is extremely important and why most people stay away from soldering. You have to heat the joint before you put the solder in there. I don't mean press the solder on and once it melts you're good. I mean heat the wire and the lug for 20-30 seconds with your torch before you ever touch solder to it. Continue heating while you apply the solder. The reason is, for the solder to flow evenly through the wire and bond to the terminal, they both need to be at or above the solder's melting point. If they aren't (like they are not when you just start forcing solder in as soon as it's melting) you will get a cold solder joint every time. Also if you move the wire/lug before the solder is hard it will be a cold joint every time. It doesn't help that us guys like to "test the joint's strength" as soon as its cool enough to touch. It's just not smart.

 
Solder becomes more brittle every time it is heated and cooled. The answer is yes. It certainly could be the problem. I would have to suggest that you test with just crimped lugs first. I'd be willing to bet that your problem goes away. Then if you want soldered wires do it with all new lugs and new solder.
I'm not using the same solder over and over again, but I have an ancient old roll of solder that I have been using, lol.

I don't have any way to crimp these wires, or else I would...but there's a welding supply place across the street and I could get new solder if I have to.

 
I'm not using the same solder over and over again, but I have an ancient old roll of solder that I have been using, lol.
I don't have any way to crimp these wires, or else I would...but there's a welding supply place across the street and I could get new solder if I have to.
Bro lets just go halfsies on some fancy crimpers

 
I'm not using the same solder over and over again, but I have an ancient old roll of solder that I have been using, lol.
I don't have any way to crimp these wires, or else I would...but there's a welding supply place across the street and I could get new solder if I have to.
Ah ok. If worse comes to worse just hammer the shit out of it.

 
Solder becomes more brittle every time it is heated and cooled. The answer is yes. It certainly could be the problem. I would have to suggest that you test with just crimped lugs first. I'd be willing to bet that your problem goes away. Then if you want soldered wires do it with all new lugs and new solder. ALSO: This part is extremely important and why most people stay away from soldering. You have to heat the joint before you put the solder in there. I don't mean press the solder on and once it melts you're good. I mean heat the wire and the lug for 20-30 seconds with your torch before you ever touch solder to it. Continue heating while you apply the solder. The reason is, for the solder to flow evenly through the wire and bond to the terminal, they both need to be at or above the solder's melting point. If they aren't (like they are not when you just start forcing solder in as soon as it's melting) you will get a cold solder joint every time. Also if you move the wire/lug before the solder is hard it will be a cold joint every time. It doesn't help that us guys like to "test the joint's strength" as soon as its cool enough to touch. It's just not smart.
Wow, really? I wasn't aware. I would always heat up the lug, then melt the solder into it, then put the wire into the lug with solder in it...

Like this:


 
Anyway I can get cliffs to this? I read all that crap and I'm as lost as he OP. If prob is between the rear batt and amp then thats your answer. If you have any spare wire take your amp and hook it up as close as possible without the distro or soldering and see if you still have the prob. It seems that the wire/connection is the culprit.

 
Anyway I can get cliffs to this? I read all that crap and I'm as lost as he OP. If prob is between the rear batt and amp then thats your answer. If you have any spare wire take your amp and hook it up as close as possible without the distro or soldering and see if you still have the prob. It seems that the wire/connection is the culprit.
thats the cliffs, pretty much.

 
Wow, really? I wasn't aware. I would always heat up the lug, then melt the solder into it, then put the wire into the lug with solder in it...
Like this:

Ok that guy is not telling you the correct way to do it. He tells you to stick them in the freezer or run water over them too. You can't do that with solder. You must let it cool in stagnant air or you'll get cold solder joints. It's not that tough it just takes time. Heat the entire joint meaning the wire and the lug. Once it's been heated for 20-30 seconds start applying your solder. Let it sit for 5 minutes and you're good to go. Doing anything else will piss you off to no end like it is right now. The wire has to be at the solder's melting point or the solder will not bond to it. If you don't believe me do a little experiment. Melt some solder in a metal lid of some sort. Dip the solder in and quickly remove it. Then wipe the solder off //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Now heat the wire up really hot and put it in some melted solder. Watch it flow through the wire. Now try to pull the solder off. You can't do it.

 
Ok that guy is not telling you the correct way to do it. He tells you to stick them in the freezer or run water over them too. You can't do that with solder. You must let it cool in stagnant air or you'll get cold solder joints. It's not that tough it just takes time. Heat the entire joint meaning the wire and the lug. Once it's been heated for 20-30 seconds start applying your solder. Let it sit for 5 minutes and you're good to go. Doing anything else will piss you off to no end like it is right now. The wire has to be at the solder's melting point or the solder will not bond to it. If you don't believe me do a little experiment. Melt some solder in a metal lid of some sort. Dip the solder in and quickly remove it. Then wipe the solder off //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Now heat the wire up really hot and put it in some melted solder. Watch it flow through the wire. Now try to pull the solder off. You can't do it.
Last question: how can I heat the lug as well as the wire at the same time to get it hot?

 
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