whats better?

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

i was looking at your prv speakers up and they look better than the pwx loland im going to get the 16 gauge i never had the 12 gauge to begin with i was buying on amazon.

I got some prv audio 6mr500 coming tomorrow. The specs are ridiculous so I hope they sound good

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I got some prv audio 6mr500 coming tomorrow. The specs are ridiculous so I hope they sound good
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they dont sound too good SQ wise with little power but they got loud. However once i bridged my ppi 900.4 into two channel mode for 450 watts per side, they became a completely different beast. LOUD and crazy good sounding.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

they dont sound too good SQ wise with little power but they got loud. However once i bridged my ppi 900.4 into two channel mode for 450 watts per side, they became a completely different beast. LOUD and crazy good sounding.

Oh ok cool. I'll have 500rms available for them and piece. Can't wait.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Oh ok cool. I'll have 500rms available for them and piece. Can't wait.
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they drowned out my 4 pwx 10s which are getting 400 watts a piece.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

they drowned out my 4 pwx 10s which are getting 400 watts a piece.

Jesus. Then I bought the right speaker. That's what I want. Need to do three way though. Missing some midbass with these woofers. My ds18s don't have anything under 120 or so really. Thanks for the suggestion long ago.

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[ekah]

they drowned out my 4 pwx 10s which are getting 400 watts a piece.

I hope the pwx can get somewhat loud with good sq or at least better than the jbl p660c loudness and sq with the tweets

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I hope the pwx can get somewhat loud with good sq or at least better than the jbl p660c loudness and sq with the tweets
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pwx is still great and by no means weak. Just the prvs are on a different level lol. comes with the high cost.

Jesus. Then I bought the right speaker. That's what I want. Need to do three way though. Missing some midbass with these woofers. My ds18s don't have anything under 120 or so really. Thanks for the suggestion long ago.
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They arent really midbass speakers, more midrange and upper midbass like 150hz and up. They can play lower but power handling suffers.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

pwx is still great and by no means weak. Just the prvs are on a different level lol. comes with the high cost.


They arent really midbass speakers, more midrange and upper midbass like 150hz and up. They can play lower but power handling suffers.

Hey man. I was looking for amps today and saw that you bought that Alphard four channel. How are you liking it? Looks pretty awesome

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Hey man. I was looking for amps today and saw that you bought that Alphard four channel. How are you liking it? Looks pretty awesome

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For the money i'd rather buy two ppi 900.4s and bridge them both and get 4 channels of 450 watts each. Alphard sounded decent but a lil sketchy on reliability. PPI 900.4 bridged is a totally different monster.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

For the money i'd rather buy two ppi 900.4s and bridge them both and get 4 channels of 450 watts each. Alphard sounded decent but a lil sketchy on reliability.

Oh ****. Did you have problems with it? Is it me or does some of there stuff look like skar products?

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Oh ****. Did you have problems with it? Is it me or does some of there stuff look like skar products?
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they all zenon amps so ct alphard, skar, dc, crescendo, twisted, synergy all the same sh*t no difference. yeah While adjusting high pass filters on the head unit at medium volume the amp popped. That never happened with my ppi.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

pwx is still great and by no means weak. Just the prvs are on a different level lol. comes with the high cost.


They arent really midbass speakers, more midrange and upper midbass like 150hz and up. They can play lower but power handling suffers.

Finally got my prvs today. They are the older ones with the yellow spider.

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[ekah]

For the money i'd rather buy two ppi 900.4s and bridge them both and get 4 channels of 450 watts each. Alphard sounded decent but a lil sketchy on reliability. PPI 900.4 bridged is a totally different monster.

My gains are turned All the way down to 0. Scared to touch the gains since it gets loud I don't wanna hurt the speakers I don't know if I should break them in first.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

My gains are turned All the way down to 0. Scared to touch the gains since it gets loud I don't wanna hurt the speakers I don't know if I should break them in first.Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

there is no break in, just monitor their temperatures and keep a keen nose for any coil smell and slowly raise the gain while playing music for a few minutes and seeing how things sound and monitor the temperature. If it can play for 5 mins straight without heating up or smelling then you are fine.

How's the overall sound? You can start playing with the crossover points to see what works with what. Use the EQ to correct any harshness etc... make sure loudness is not turned on in the head unit.

For position, make it front left, then go to your speaker level and make sure they are all evened out(except sub, you can decide what you want on that) Then go to the time alignment and measure out the distance from each tweeter and mid to your ear and enter in the measurements.

Afterwards just play around with the numbers aka adding or subtracting both tweeter and midrange values (left or right doesnt matter) while playing music until you feel like the singer is dead center on your dash.

 

[ekah]

there is no break in, just monitor their temperatures and keep a keen nose for any coil smell and slowly raise the gain while playing music for a few minutes and seeing how things sound and monitor the temperature. If it can play for 5 mins straight without heating up or smelling then you are fine.

How's the overall sound? You can start playing with the crossover points to see what works with what. Use the EQ to correct any harshness etc... make sure loudness is not turned on in the head unit.

For position, make it front left, then go to your speaker level and make sure they are all evened out(except sub, you can decide what you want on that) Then go to the time alignment and measure out the distance from each tweeter and mid to your ear and enter in the measurements.

Afterwards just play around with the numbers aka adding or subtracting both tweeter and midrange values (left or right doesnt matter) while playing music until you feel like the singer is dead center on your dash.

so for the xover the mid hpf is so the pwx dont play any lower than what i pointed at and the mid lfp is so it dont play any higher than what i pointed at? and the high is for how low the tweet can go before all cutting out? and do i cross them over like overlapping or cut off right where each one ends off? or it dont matter? just as long as i dont go over 5khz for pwx since thats what it says it can play up to? is it okay to go any lower for the tweet like at 2.5hz? i cant really find anywhere online to show what the frequencies that it could be used at. although i have warranty for it but not for the pwx.