What Could Be Wrong?

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Plenty of woofers that are called "2 ohm" are 1.7, 1.8, or lower. Could be that simple. You also may have wires shorting somewhere like in the terminals, but that would be unusual. I'd never mess with speaker connections with amp on, even with no signal it's a risk. I'd like to see pics of your ground as well, sounds like that may be inadequate

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

Here is my ground going to the amp:

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

It was originally done in a different location without the paint sanded away so I moved it over a little and sanded the paint away.

 

[ahole-ic]

If your amp goes into protect it's because it's on. Don't tell us how you're smart enough to pull fuses etc. You aren't. You proved that. If you had fuses pulled, no lights could be on because the the amp was off. You didn't pull fuses. You pulled the rcas. That doesn't do ANYTHING. if you short the outputs of the amp with the rca's pulled it is still going to do damage to the amplifier. Now that we have established that you are a moron, let's proceed.

Your voltage will drop under a heavy current draw (bass note). After your amp goes into protect and shuts off, the voltage is obviously going to come back up. So when you measured the amp voltage AFTER the amp was in protect, you didn't learn ANYTHING.... not a single thing.

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

If your amp goes into protect it's because it's on. Don't tell us how you're smart enough to pull fuses etc. You aren't. You proved that. If you had fuses pulled, no lights could be on because the the amp was off. You didn't pull fuses. You pulled the rcas. That doesn't do ANYTHING. if you short the outputs of the amp with the rca's pulled it is still going to do damage to the amplifier. Now that we have established that you are a moron, let's proceed.
Your voltage will drop under a heavy current draw (bass note). After your amp goes into protect and shuts off, the voltage is obviously going to come back up. So when you measured the amp voltage AFTER the amp was in protect, you didn't learn ANYTHING.... not a single thing.

As I said and you clearly missed, I know to definitely pull the fuses when messing with the power and grounds to the amp. I didn't not know/think with the radio turned off and the RCAs unplugged that it would be a big deal.

And my point about checking the voltage after it was in protect mode is that the amp is 'supposed' to return to normal playing state when the voltage returns to normal. If the voltage was reading 13.3v then it was obviously back to normal and the amp was still in protect mode.

So thank you for your smart *** remarks. I posted to get help and if you can't offer any then please move on to the next topic.

How ****** does your life have to be to where part of your day is talking **** to random people on the internet?

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

And by the way, I never said the amp was turned off, only the radio. I knew the amp was on.

 

[ahole-ic]

As I said and you clearly missed, I know to definitely pull the fuses when messing with the power and grounds to the amp. I didn't not know/think with the radio turned off and the RCAs unplugged that it would be a big deal.

The radio wasn't turned off if you have your remote lead running your amp. It was ON. You're lying or have it hooked up wrong.

And my point about checking the voltage after it was in protect mode is that the amp is 'supposed' to return to normal playing state when the voltage returns to normal. If the voltage was reading 13.3v then it was obviously back to normal and the amp was still in protect mode.

No, it's not. Don't pretend you understand the complex protection circuitry. You don't even know to not work on your amp when it is on.

So thank you for your smart *** remarks. I posted to get help and if you can't offer any then please move on to the next topic.

How ****** does your life have to be to where part of your day is talking **** to random people on the internet?

You SHOULD be thanking me. What you did was stupid. How dare you admit to all of this ignorance and then have the arrogance to talk to me like you should have self respect. You shouldn't. You messed up and you should be humble and take your medicine. 

---------- Post added at 02:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:27 PM ----------

 

And by the way, I never said the amp was turned off, only the radio. I knew the amp was on.

... what an idiot.

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

The radio would only turn the amp on if the remote wire was connected to the radio correct? If the remote is connected to a fuse that turns on when the ignition is on then it wouldn't matter if the radio was on or off, the amp would be on if the ignition is on, correct? The faceplate was not attached at the time so there is no reason the radio should have been on, correct?

And I never stated any where, nor do I pretend to know how the circuitry of an amp works. All I know is what I read in the manual. And after re-reading it, I now see that I made a mistake and it will return to its normal playing state after it has a constant red light from over heating. That was a miss remembrance (is that a word?) on my part.

So if the amp doesn't normally return to its normal playing state after the voltage is normal, shouldn't that eliminate that as a potential problem? Since it usually comes back on after a few minutes? And wouldn't it be more consistent with when it cuts out since my daily routine is pretty much the same each day? I don't know if that would matter, just throwing that out there.

 

[ahole-ic]

The radio would only turn the amp on if the remote wire was connected to the radio correct? If the remote is connected to a fuse that turns on when the ignition is on then it wouldn't matter if the radio was on or off, the amp would be on if the ignition is on, correct? The faceplate was not attached at the time so there is no reason the radio should have been on, correct?

Why would the remote wire be hooked to anything other than the remote lead of the head unit?

And I never stated any where, nor do I pretend to know how the circuitry of an amp works. All I know is what I read in the manual. And after re-reading it, I now see that I made a mistake and it will return to its normal playing state after it has a constant red light from over heating. That was a miss remembrance (is that a word?) on my part.

I thought so. It matters because you were using what you thought was true, to deduce that you don't have a voltage problem, when it fact you do.

So if the amp doesn't normally return to its normal playing state after the voltage is normal, shouldn't that eliminate that as a potential problem? Since it usually comes back on after a few minutes? And wouldn't it be more consistent with when it cuts out since my daily routine is pretty much the same each day? I don't know if that would matter, just throwing that out there.

No none of that rules out a voltage problem. If you really want to figure it out, have a buddy help you. WITH the amp off, put the probes of a dmm in the power and ground. Measure the DC voltage. Have your buddy use a digital camera recording video. You get in the front seat and turn it up. Make sure the dmm reading and the protection lights on the amp are in frame. That will show you what the voltage is when the amp protects and will be a definitive way to know whether or not you have a voltage problem.

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

With the power off and the speakers not connected, the DMM was reading 12.7v at the amp. I turned on the car and the amp and it was reading 13.7v in normal mode. Even though it was ill advised, I connected the speakers to the amp with it powered on and as soon as it connected it went into protect mode. Voltage stayed the same.

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

I'm not 100% sure what the volume was at the head unit at the time but it was atleast 5 or below and there was no sound playing. I don't know if that matters but I was just throwing that out there.

 

[ahole-ic]

An amp going from infinite impedence (nothing connected) to very small impedence (2 ohms) instantly is probably going to protect. You have probably already blown it from working on it with it on and shorting it out etc.

 

[poisoned10 10+ year member]

An amp going from infinite impedence (nothing connected) to very small impedence (2 ohms) instantly is probably going to protect. You have probably already blown it from working on it with it on and shorting it out etc.

Ok. Well, if that happens to be the case, luckily it was a cheap used amp. But at the same time, it was doing that before I did any work on it with or without power on.

Thank you for all of your input, no matter how condescending it was.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for all of your input, no matter how condescending it was.

luls

and a very worthwhile quote sigged as tribute to all the '11 and '12ers on here

 

[brooklynjoy2008 10+ year member]

Why do you come on here, ask questions, and not listen to what people tell you? I'm not gonna be a dikk like some other people but I told you, DO NOT CONNECT OR DISCONNECT ANY WIRES FROM YOUR AMP WITH IT ON OR YOU WILL F IT UP. With the car and amp off unhook your speakers from your amp, then turn your car on and with the exact way you have your settings now play your 50 hz tone and use your dmm in the speaker output. Set your dmm to a/c volts and have your radio at the loudest you listen to it at.