Subwoofer RMS question

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How do you have an o scope but not fermiliar with setting gains with a higher amperage amp? Or using a volt meter? Not trying to insult you by any means, just always felt using an o scope was more for those that are really into the tuning process and want to be extra careful?

I started with volt meter, and although some might flame me for this, probe the outputs of the amp to sub with the volt meter. Adjust Till max volume, 75% and move gain till i hit 500w for a 600w rms rated sub. That way if i ever do say turn base up on HU i have a tad bit more leeway. Im also listening for any audible distortion. Although, truth be told i could still very well be distorting my sub. But have had zero problems thus far. Atleast on that end. And i dont have an o scope, wish i did though. Just another idea to add to the bunch

 
If it were me, I'd wire it to 2 ohms, have some nice solid power going to it. Just watch the volume on HU so the sub doesn't blow....once gain is properly set. If you start to hear the sub reaching it's mechanical limits during testing or music playing, back off on the volume a little, and turn the gain down a slim less.

 
What sux is that I have 4 powerbass es8dv.2 8's but they require a 0.5 foot apiece. and the speaker is physically too big to even put in that box. they're 250w rms.
sell those and buy whatever fair 10 or 12 and 1cf box (dayton 12 is $149 takes less than 1 cf pretty well respected) can get others for less sundown has lcs 12 $84 u can get E 10 bstock like $87 but peeps say they not great sealed idk but most 12's with 500rms be louder than 1 8 with 175 rms or at 500 like audioholic said if u turn it way down u still not getting all that power..

 
How do you have an o scope but not fermiliar with setting gains with a higher amperage amp? Or using a volt meter? Not trying to insult you by any means, just always felt using an o scope was more for those that are really into the tuning process and want to be extra careful?
I started with volt meter, and although some might flame me for this, probe the outputs of the amp to sub with the volt meter. Adjust Till max volume, 75% and move gain till i hit 500w for a 600w rms rated sub. That way if i ever do say turn base up on HU i have a tad bit more leeway. Im also listening for any audible distortion. Although, truth be told i could still very well be distorting my sub. But have had zero problems thus far. Atleast on that end. And i dont have an o scope, wish i did though. Just another idea to add to the bunch
I don't have any experience setting gains with a higher rated amp because typically when I buy a "system" its usually all at once and I match all the power ratings before hand. As far as the o scope goes I've only used it a handful of times and its just a hand held one from amazon. It only costs $65. I'm using mix and match components and just trying to make it work. want it to be as loud as possible without blowing lol. I have seen people do it with "ohms law" on the millimeter before I just have never done it before. Would that be a safer method for this situation?

 
sell those and buy whatever fair 10 or 12 and 1cf box (dayton 12 is $149 takes less than 1 cf pretty well respected) can get others for less sundown has lcs 12 $84 u can get E 10 bstock like $87 but peeps say they not great sealed idk but most 12's with 500rms be louder than 1 8 with 175 rms or at 500 like audioholic said if u turn it way down u still not getting all that power..
I would do that but my goal is to not have a sub box in the back. I just removed a box with 2 RF P3 10's. saving space or I wouldn't be in this conundrum //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
I'm probably going to end up hating it and putting the fosgates back in....or building a box for the 8's lol but we'll see how it goes I guess. If I hate it I'll try to return it. I wish the stock enclosure was a ten. I have an old JL 10 also that I don't think is particularly deep. hooray for stock enclosures.

 
this is the description of the amp. Do you guys think its even really putting out 500W that's the CEA compliant rating. They seem to think it puts out 1000w lol.

The RXH-F5 is a 5 channel high power amplifier with 3,200 Watts peak output, 1600 Watts RMS output (4 x 150 + 1 x 1000 @ 2 Ohms). The CEA-2006 compliant rating is 50 x 4 + 1 x 350 @ 4 Ohms and 75 x 4 + 1 x 500 @ 2 ohms

 
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