ok yeah they lead out to the amp seperate but the way they are hooked up to the subs is important. Do you have a digital multi meter? It is a series/parrallel configuration which is very important if you are taking into consideration the amount of power your amp delivers to the subs.
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
[quote name='Jaguar']@quackhead. All he did in the length of the video you specified is connect the subwoofers negative to negative and positive to positive creating a single positive and negative line. That's basically Parallel wiring, but I you specified I would need to do Parallel and Series wiring for each subwoofer am I wrong. And by the way these subwoofers are not connected, they lead out separately to the amplifier, but I'm not sure if they go into the same slots in the back of the amplifier, have to check.[/QUOTE]
it was a little quick, but he demonstrated twice how to wire a DVC sub in series
it was a little quick, but he demonstrated twice how to wire a DVC sub in series
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
he's bought two D4 subs and he has to either wire parallel all the way to the kenwood for 2 ohm/ch (min imp.), OR wire each subs' coils series and parallel the two subs at 4 ohms to the Kenwood bridged mono for 500 watts(min.imp) I have been trying to explain the series/parallel scheme for a single 4 ohm load to the amp bridged.
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
[quote name='Jaguar']@quackhead. All he did in the length of the video you specified is connect the subwoofers negative to negative and positive to positive creating a single positive and negative line. That's basically Parallel wiring, but I you specified I would need to do Parallel and Series wiring for each subwoofer am I wrong. And by the way these subwoofers are not connected, they lead out separately to the amplifier, but I'm not sure if they go into the same slots in the back of the amplifier, have to check.[/QUOTE]
how did you disconnect the old 8 ohm subs?
how did you disconnect the old 8 ohm subs?
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
I am beginning to suspect you had two 8 ohm subs wired stereo, which in that case, your old subs were probably seeing maybe 100 watts ea. Can you confirm this as yes or no?
- Thread Starter
- #96
[quote name='quackhead']I am beginning to suspect you had two 8 ohm subs wired stereo, which in that case, your old subs were probably seeing maybe 100 watts ea. Can you confirm this as yes or no?[/QUOTE]
@quackhead I can confirm the subwoofers are connected separately within the enclosure as well as individual left/right terminals from the back of enclosure leading to the amplifier to left and right channels (left/right left/right) in stereo.
That is how the standard 8ohm Kicker Comp 12"s were installed.
@quackhead I can confirm the subwoofers are connected separately within the enclosure as well as individual left/right terminals from the back of enclosure leading to the amplifier to left and right channels (left/right left/right) in stereo.
That is how the standard 8ohm Kicker Comp 12"s were installed.
Last edited by a moderator:
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
[quote name='Jaguar']@quackhead I can confirm the subwoofers are connected separately within the enclosure as well as individual left/right terminals from the back of enclosure leading to the amplifier to left and right channels (left/right left/right) in stereo.
That is how the standard 8ohm Kicker Comp 12"s were installed.[/QUOTE]
I was afraid that was the case.
So, if your old subs were in perfect working order, all you needed to do was rewire the old subs in parallel fashion to the Kenwood in bridged mono to take advantage of it's power capabilities.. I posted a copy of the Kenwood owner's manual in a previous post which states plain as day how this is done in the "Connections" section.
I know you are new, but try to follow...the old subs are 8 ohm ea. parallel wiring two 8 ohm subs creates a 4ohm impedance .
Parallel wiring halves the given impedance, Series wiring doubles impedance. Higher impedance load to the amp lowers amp output 99% of the time, a few amps maintain a given power over varying impedances but that Kenwood is not one of them.Ie; lower impedance load allows the amp to produce more power. (For years I avoided DVC subs for the very reason you are having trouble understanding those DVC subs you just bought.) Your amp has a minimum allowable impedance, in stereo and summed mono.
In stereo, as the old subs were wired, you were presenting the amp with an 8 ohm load per channel L/R. The amp does not even give a power rating at that impedance. It does however give a power rating for 4 ohms = 170 watts rms per channel, therefore you can deduct that at the previous 8 ohm load, it was producing roughly 85 watts per channel rms.
Your amp is rated for 250 watts per channel @ 2ohms. OR 500 watts into one channel summed mono @ 4 ohms.. Your old subs should have been wired to the amp in parallel to the POSITIVE terminal on the LEFT channel and the NEGATIVE terminal on the RIGHT channel, creating a 4ohm load to the amp using both channels combined for an output of 500 watts rms. You should promptly return those new subs and rewire the old ones correctly so you can achieve the same "next level" experience using what you had to begin with.
Save the monthly payments for a future purchase that would not limit you to the ignorance of the sales person who sold you those new subs and told you to only wire one coil per sub, thus in most cases voiding warranty due to burnt coils. And by all means, stay away from whoever wired the old subs to that kenwood.
That is how the standard 8ohm Kicker Comp 12"s were installed.[/QUOTE]
I was afraid that was the case.
So, if your old subs were in perfect working order, all you needed to do was rewire the old subs in parallel fashion to the Kenwood in bridged mono to take advantage of it's power capabilities.. I posted a copy of the Kenwood owner's manual in a previous post which states plain as day how this is done in the "Connections" section.
I know you are new, but try to follow...the old subs are 8 ohm ea. parallel wiring two 8 ohm subs creates a 4ohm impedance .
Parallel wiring halves the given impedance, Series wiring doubles impedance. Higher impedance load to the amp lowers amp output 99% of the time, a few amps maintain a given power over varying impedances but that Kenwood is not one of them.Ie; lower impedance load allows the amp to produce more power. (For years I avoided DVC subs for the very reason you are having trouble understanding those DVC subs you just bought.) Your amp has a minimum allowable impedance, in stereo and summed mono.
In stereo, as the old subs were wired, you were presenting the amp with an 8 ohm load per channel L/R. The amp does not even give a power rating at that impedance. It does however give a power rating for 4 ohms = 170 watts rms per channel, therefore you can deduct that at the previous 8 ohm load, it was producing roughly 85 watts per channel rms.
Your amp is rated for 250 watts per channel @ 2ohms. OR 500 watts into one channel summed mono @ 4 ohms.. Your old subs should have been wired to the amp in parallel to the POSITIVE terminal on the LEFT channel and the NEGATIVE terminal on the RIGHT channel, creating a 4ohm load to the amp using both channels combined for an output of 500 watts rms. You should promptly return those new subs and rewire the old ones correctly so you can achieve the same "next level" experience using what you had to begin with.
Save the monthly payments for a future purchase that would not limit you to the ignorance of the sales person who sold you those new subs and told you to only wire one coil per sub, thus in most cases voiding warranty due to burnt coils. And by all means, stay away from whoever wired the old subs to that kenwood.
- Thread Starter
- #98
@quackhead Well the people at the real car-audio installation place I frequent know me, and actually wired the speakers themselves for free (wiring/labor/free).
It was suggested I get a new Amp for these subs. Specification: 1ohm / 600w / Class D. It was also suggested I get a new box with real mdf material,
I was told mine was not all real. Gang at Gwinnett sound took me to the back and showed me some real boxes, seemed much sturdier and solid overall. Good prices.
The subwoofers are hitting so hard right now, I need breaks to recover, so I'm not so certain of how bad a decision I've made to buy these subs. Will I take it
to the next level you better believe it. I was fortunate to stumble upon this board and given a lot of great advice by car-audio enthusiasts such as yourself.
The things you told me really pointed me in the right direction. Sure I'm just a student, but imagine how much worse of a mistake I could have made without all
the advice experience members had given.
The only thing I'm concerned with is how hot the amp gets very fast. I realize amps getting really HOT fast is normal, but do you think the way the subs are
wired for that amp now cause it additional stress above normal expenditure? Advice on that please! I rather now burn the Amp I have now before I am able to
get a new one. Anyways, any suggestions for a new amp in the 200-250 range? Looking for something 1ohm / 600w / Class D (this is what is suggested).
It was suggested I get a new Amp for these subs. Specification: 1ohm / 600w / Class D. It was also suggested I get a new box with real mdf material,
I was told mine was not all real. Gang at Gwinnett sound took me to the back and showed me some real boxes, seemed much sturdier and solid overall. Good prices.
The subwoofers are hitting so hard right now, I need breaks to recover, so I'm not so certain of how bad a decision I've made to buy these subs. Will I take it
to the next level you better believe it. I was fortunate to stumble upon this board and given a lot of great advice by car-audio enthusiasts such as yourself.
The things you told me really pointed me in the right direction. Sure I'm just a student, but imagine how much worse of a mistake I could have made without all
the advice experience members had given.
The only thing I'm concerned with is how hot the amp gets very fast. I realize amps getting really HOT fast is normal, but do you think the way the subs are
wired for that amp now cause it additional stress above normal expenditure? Advice on that please! I rather now burn the Amp I have now before I am able to
get a new one. Anyways, any suggestions for a new amp in the 200-250 range? Looking for something 1ohm / 600w / Class D (this is what is suggested).
Last edited by a moderator:
hispls
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
I would think that 1 high quality sub in a well built box will outperform 2X average quality subs every day of the week, particularly if maximum output isn't your goal and if you don't intend to invest in major electrical upgrades.
JBL GTi Mk II , TC 3000 AKA Audiopulse REVO, older Eclipse Ti, older Adire (or newer Exodus versions) or similar all come to mind as great sounding woofers that'll hold 1000W of power continuously. ALso don't rule out JL W7 if you can find one used in the 350$ price range.
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
[quote name='Jaguar']@quackhead Well the people at the real car-audio installation place I frequent know me, and actually wired the speakers themselves for free (wiring/labor/free).
It was suggested I get a new Amp for these subs. Specification: 1ohm / 600w / Class D. It was also suggested I get a new box with real mdf material,
I was told mine was not all real. Gang at Gwinnett sound took me to the back and showed me some real boxes, seemed much sturdier and solid overall. Good prices.
The subwoofers are hitting so hard right now, I need breaks to recover, so I'm not so certain of how bad a decision I've made to buy these subs. Will I take it
to the next level you better believe it. I was fortunate to stumble upon this board and given a lot of great advice by car-audio enthusiasts such as yourself.
The things you told me really pointed me in the right direction. Sure I'm just a student, but imagine how much worse of a mistake I could have made without all
the advice experience members had given.
The only thing I'm concerned with is how hot the amp gets very fast. I realize amps getting really HOT fast is normal, but do you think the way the subs are
wired for that amp now cause it additional stress above normal expenditure? Advice on that please! I rather now burn my the Amp I have no before I am able to
get a new one. Anyways, any suggestions for a new amp in the 200-250 range? Looking for something 1ohm / 600w / Class D (this is what is suggested).[/QUOTE]
You still give no indication of how the new DVC subs are wired internally(in the box), or at the amp.
It was suggested I get a new Amp for these subs. Specification: 1ohm / 600w / Class D. It was also suggested I get a new box with real mdf material,
I was told mine was not all real. Gang at Gwinnett sound took me to the back and showed me some real boxes, seemed much sturdier and solid overall. Good prices.
The subwoofers are hitting so hard right now, I need breaks to recover, so I'm not so certain of how bad a decision I've made to buy these subs. Will I take it
to the next level you better believe it. I was fortunate to stumble upon this board and given a lot of great advice by car-audio enthusiasts such as yourself.
The things you told me really pointed me in the right direction. Sure I'm just a student, but imagine how much worse of a mistake I could have made without all
the advice experience members had given.
The only thing I'm concerned with is how hot the amp gets very fast. I realize amps getting really HOT fast is normal, but do you think the way the subs are
wired for that amp now cause it additional stress above normal expenditure? Advice on that please! I rather now burn my the Amp I have no before I am able to
get a new one. Anyways, any suggestions for a new amp in the 200-250 range? Looking for something 1ohm / 600w / Class D (this is what is suggested).[/QUOTE]
You still give no indication of how the new DVC subs are wired internally(in the box), or at the amp.
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
With that budget, why not look for an amp that will allow you to feed those subs at 4 ohms, so that you have an amp that will serve you over a longer period of time in the event you decide to make future sub upgrades?
This would allow tons of flexibility for the future and not tax your electrical @ 4ohms, you said you were doing the Big 3...but you need a different card than "Brandsmart"
Planet Audio BB1400.1 Class D Amplifiers at Onlinecarstereo.com
this amp would be barely breathing at 4ohms.
This would allow tons of flexibility for the future and not tax your electrical @ 4ohms, you said you were doing the Big 3...but you need a different card than "Brandsmart"
Planet Audio BB1400.1 Class D Amplifiers at Onlinecarstereo.com
this amp would be barely breathing at 4ohms.
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
ps..I guess all I am doing is showing examples, not suggesting you up and run out and buy this amp, there are better for the $$
- Thread Starter
- #103
[quote name='quackhead']You still give no indication of how the new DVC subs are wired internally(in the box), or at the amp.[/QUOTE]
Edit: @quackhead I'll take some photos for you tomorrow of the DVC setup and the Amp.
I owe you that for helping me. Your curious, I'll show you. Too dark to take photos now.
Edit: @quackhead I'll take some photos for you tomorrow of the DVC setup and the Amp.
I owe you that for helping me. Your curious, I'll show you. Too dark to take photos now.
Last edited by a moderator:
quackhead
10+ year member
HUH?
you mentioned the amp running hot to the touch very quickly, if those subs are not configured to present the right load to the KW, you might be upgrading ALOT sooner than you think.
- Thread Starter
- #105
Hm well, from my experience Amps get hot within 20-30m, depending on the voltage drawn by the subs, possibly longer. This one has a built in fan, but to play it safe I've been limiting the amount of play time until I get a new amp. The guy has been installing car audio for 20 years, I trust him, nevertheless I'll still am going to take a speaker out and take a photo for you to see how it's wired. I'll also take a photo of how the speakers lead into the back of the amp. Thank you.
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