Subs cut out, smoke coming from trunk.

So as I am driving back home from school today, I was listening to my music at pretty much max volume. All of a sudden the subwoofer cuts out and I smell smoke coming from the trunk. I immediately turned off the deck and continued driving home. Once I got home I popped the trunk and checked what was wrong, the amp was very warm and smelled burnt, the subwoofers smelled fine.

My amp was putting out 36 volts as suggested by the automatic voltage calculator, bass boost was turned down to 0, subsonic filter is at 25, all of the settings on the deck are pretty much default, fader 00, balance 00, loud off, eq was default...

Can someone tell me what might have happened? This is the second time this has happened to me so far, this time I don't believe I did anything wrong at all.

What do you guys suggest I do?

 
So as I am driving back home from school today, I was listening to my music at pretty much max volume. All of a sudden the subwoofer cuts out and I smell smoke coming from the trunk. I immediately turned off the deck and continued driving home. Once I got home I popped the trunk and checked what was wrong, the amp was very warm and smelled burnt, the subwoofers smelled fine.
My amp was putting out 36 volts as suggested by the automatic voltage calculator, bass boost was turned down to 0, subsonic filter is at 25, all of the settings on the deck are pretty much default, fader 00, balance 00, loud off, eq was default...

Can someone tell me what might have happened? This is the second time this has happened to me so far, this time I don't believe I did anything wrong at all.

What do you guys suggest I do?
I would say voltage drop below 12V fried you, if the gain was set to high(was putting out that voltage but in a clipped signal) the amp prob would of just clicked into protect or atleaste it has in my experience.

What kind of car is it?

What amp?

What subs?

 
I would say voltage drop below 12V fried you, if the gain was set to high(was putting out that voltage but in a clipped signal) the amp prob would of just clicked into protect or atleaste it has in my experience.
What kind of car is it?

What amp?

What subs?
Car is a 98 Ford Contour LX

Amp is a Soundstream LW1.1700d Monoblock

Subs are 12 inch Alpine Type R SWR1242d's

I honestly didn't think that bad voltage would cause the amp and/or subs to blow... This **** is so frustrating.

 
Car is a 98 Ford Contour LX
Amp is a Soundstream LW1.1700d Monoblock

Subs are 12 inch Alpine Type R SWR1242d's

I honestly didn't think that bad voltage would cause the amp and/or subs to blow... This **** is so frustrating.
That is more then likely the issue. You should spend some time reading a few "how to's" and other threads. Then go through and test your product and see what failed and start to figure out why. More then likely do to faulty settings and low voltage.

 
Car is a 98 Ford Contour LX
Amp is a Soundstream LW1.1700d Monoblock

Subs are 12 inch Alpine Type R SWR1242d's

I honestly didn't think that bad voltage would cause the amp and/or subs to blow... This **** is so frustrating.
OEM alternator for your car is 130amps according to the site i found for a OE replacement. You should check to make sure you know yours for sure.

How were the subs wired to the amp? Do you know the final ohm load you had it set for?

If it was for a 1ohm load, idk how you would have received such bad voltage drops with a 130amp alt. My guess would be bad electrical in that car or that amp ****** ballz

If you had if for 4ohms you clipped it into toast

 
I had the subs wired down to 1 ohm, I have all stock electrical which I though would be fine since I know plenty of people that run two 12's off stock electrical.

I tuned the amp to put out 36.1 hz at 40/50 volume which is the max before the music started to become distorted, so I was putting around 650 watts to each of them I believe.

Good news is the subs are fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Bad news is that I am getting no voltage reading from the amp when I play a 50hz test tone, some more good news is that the amp is under warranty, so I can get it replaced, sell it, then buy a better amp.

 
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