Subs and amp stopped working after 5 yrs

Nelly762

CarAudio.com Newbie
Solved bad wire from battery to main fuse***
Hello, I have a 2018 Silverado put in an rca adapter from factory radio to add an amp and subs. 4g wire, pioneer 8701 running 2x alpine s 12s. Done about 8 systems over the years.. After 5 years they stopped working just nothing. A few months later they turned on for a drive then nothing for months.

Finally got tired of it so tried to figure out whats going on. Tried another set of rca's used a volt meter to test voltage at battery, amp, amp and chassis ground and I get constant voltage at the battery, before main fuse, after fuse, at amp and ground with the truck off. When I turn the truck on volts drop to 1.87 1.9. At all locations. Installed another identical amp same results. Remote turn on lead has 13 volts. Subs still dont work.
I tried a new wiring harness at the head unit rca adapter nothing.. new amp still nothing. Im going to try and new positive wire and fuse to the amp but I'm at a loss as to the problem. Any thoughts? Many thanks...
 
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It is probably going to be a power supply issue. Check the fuse holder by the battery and the grounding point of the amp.
I've checked volts at the battery, before the fuse, after fuse, at amp at both grounds amp and chassis. Same result. Im at a loss especially doing systems for 25+yrs. The only thing that changes is volts with the truck on they drop at all points except at the battery.
 
I've checked volts at the battery, before the fuse, after fuse, at amp at both grounds amp and chassis. Same result. Im at a loss especially doing systems for 25+yrs. The only thing that changes is volts with the truck on they drop at all points except at the battery.
(This is just my assumption) They drop because when the amp comes on, it pulls availabe power which the power wires cannot supply. This is usually due to a poor contact point.
 
Fuses can blow and still have a connection, still show normal voltage until under load, they can half blow, just fyi. One way to check that is to check the ohm of the fuses, a partially blown fuse will read too high of ohms, but sometimes you just have to get lucky. Not saying that's it, just a fyi.

One easy way to test if the RCA's aren't giving the signal is to just buy an auxiliary jack connection or headphone connection that hook up to your phone that transfers into RCA connections, and you can just play like bass tones through your phone or something.

I would check all your connections and wire ends for corrosion and also check to see if any ring terminals or any sort of screw terminal where wires are inserted is loose.
 
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I didn't see any. Was thinking of replacing the power wire with ofc and anl fuse. Truck is garage kept never driven in snow. Only has 15k miles.
What's the voltage at the battery terminal system on and car running? This seems like it's definitely a voltage issue. See Buck's post about partially failed fuses. Measure voltage on either side of the fuse.
 
What's the voltage at the battery terminal system on and car running? This seems like it's definitely a voltage issue. See Buck's post about partially failed fuses. Measure voltage on either side of the fuse.
Truck running 14.3ish at battery before and after main fuse 1.87ish. Truck off before and after main fuse, battery, 12.42 sitting 24 hrs. Fuse holder continuity beeps, ohms 0.
 
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So it's 14.3 at the battery, but ~2v after the fuse. Have you tried swapping the fuse? Have you tried measuring voltage at the battery side of the fuse and amp side of the battery?
 
So it's 14.3 at the battery, but ~2v after the fuse. Have you tried swapping the fuse? Have you tried measuring voltage at the battery side of the fuse and amp side of the battery?
I dont have another fuse but have a anl fuse and holder showing up today. The voltage drop happens everywhere post battery.
 
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Nelly762

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