Sub suggestion


Masted85

CarAudio.com Recruit
Sep 11, 2020
62
5
Alabama
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #41
I would just get whichever one fits your power levels properly. The new XL's are more powerful then when I had them I believe.
The amp I'll be using is a Taramps smart 3, 3000w at 1 or 2 ohm
 

Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com Elite
Mar 27, 2019
1,057
285
Wisconsin
Man...that place is gonna cost me some $$$ that I don't have,lol. I would buy a set of 12 in the M3 Subwoofers or a single M4 15" as both call for 3.0 cubic feet which is perfect for the '03 Explorer while leaving me room for some groceries. And tbh the 15" would end up being cheaper then 2 12s. Even an 18" with the extra stuff in the M4 is 490.00
 

mastershake575

CarAudio.com Veteran
Mar 11, 2015
568
112
Dallas
SSA ZCON 15 or 18 in a large ported box would sound good but still offer tons of output

If you wanted dual 15s the American Bass XR 15 would be well under your budget. Sacrifices a little bit of output compared to the XFL series but has much better sound quality.

With you having tons of cone area + a powerful amp I would avoid cheap peaky SPL subs. Your not going to have to try hard to be able to get loud in your situation so eyeball better quality subs
 

Masted85

CarAudio.com Recruit
Sep 11, 2020
62
5
Alabama
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #48
SSA ZCON 15 or 18 in a large ported box would sound good but still offer tons of output

If you wanted dual 15s the American Bass XR 15 would be well under your budget. Sacrifices a little bit of output compared to the XFL series but has much better sound quality.

With you having tons of cone area + a powerful amp I would avoid cheap peaky SPL subs. Your not going to have to try hard to be able to get loud in your situation so eyeball better quality subs
I’m not set on 1 or 2 subs but 15s and 18s is fo sho. I just didn’t know if it would be better to have 1 sub at full power, 3000w in my case, or 2 subs at the same 1500w a piece, 3000w total.
 
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Slo_Ride

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People who buy Skar should be punched in the throat and kicked in the balls at the same time. Sundown or SSA
 

mastershake575

CarAudio.com Veteran
Mar 11, 2015
568
112
Dallas
I’m not set on 1 or 2 subs but 15s and 18s is fo sho. I just didn’t know if it would be better to have 1 sub at full power, 3000w in my case, or 2 subs at the same 1500w a piece, 3000w total.
Alot of it will depend on how much money your dropping on electrical upgrades. More cone area is usually a good idea if you believe that you won't get true power.
 

Slo_Ride

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Slo_Ride

Regulator
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10+ year member
Oct 15, 2005
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ATLANTA
Alot of it will depend on how much money your dropping on electrical upgrades. More cone area is usually a good idea if you believe that you won't get true power.
There's no replacement for displacement.
 

Masted85

CarAudio.com Recruit
Sep 11, 2020
62
5
Alabama
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #55
Alot of it will depend on how much money your dropping on electrical upgrades. More cone area is usually a good idea if you believe that you won't get true power.
At the moment I have my Big 3 done with 2/0 cable, doubled runs, a 320A Autotech Alt (on the way), Northstar 34/78 AGM (on the way) and plans for another Northstar Secondary battery. I will have double runs of + and - wire running from the front to the rear (hopefully 4/0 but 2/0 at least). My Taramps Smart 3 requires 150AH of supply. I'll use double 1/0 Amp terminals to supply the Smart 3.
 

shredder2

CarAudio.com Elite VIP
Nov 19, 2017
2,738
491
Az
At the moment I have my Big 3 done with 2/0 cable, doubled runs, a 320A Autotech Alt (on the way), Northstar 34/78 AGM (on the way) and plans for another Northstar Secondary battery. I will have double runs of + and - wire running from the front to the rear (hopefully 4/0 but 2/0 at least). My Taramps Smart 3 requires 150AH of supply. I'll use double 1/0 Amp terminals to supply the Smart 3.
A smart3 only?.. Just realize that smart3 wired 1 ohm likely will make 2-3ohm power. I used to love seeing smart3's in the lanes (3K stock) and watch them clamp 1.5-2.2K at best. A single sub is gonna need a durable coil once you get used to its output no matter if its an 18 or not. Just stay in the 1250-1.5K range and you'll be able to put some stank on it when you wanna get loud just NOT all day.
That amp is powerful for what it is but NOT magical. Personally if you have the room I'd opt for a pair of 750watt 15's and let that cone area work.
Jmo
 
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Masted85

CarAudio.com Recruit
Sep 11, 2020
62
5
Alabama
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #58
A smart3 only?.. Just realize that smart3 wired 1 ohm likely will make 2-3ohm power. I used to love seeing smart3's in the lanes (3K stock) and watch them clamp 1.5-2.2K at best. A single sub is gonna need a durable coil once you get used to its output no matter if its an 18 or not. Just stay in the 1250-1.5K range and you'll be able to put some stank on it when you wanna get loud just NOT all day.
That amp is powerful for what it is but NOT magical. Personally if you have the room I'd opt for a pair of 750watt 15's and let that cone area work.
Jmo
What about 2 of these? EMF 15"
 

shredder2

CarAudio.com Elite VIP
Nov 19, 2017
2,738
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Az
What about 2 of these? EMF 15"
lowballers?
Those subs are underrated and dig nice... all hate aside... they put out.
It's a reworked sa with a better coil and softies according to my sources but who cares as long as for the munny it performs?
They do like a lower tuning and smaller box
 

Masted85

CarAudio.com Recruit
Sep 11, 2020
62
5
Alabama
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #60
lowballers?
Those subs are underrated and dig nice... all hate aside... they put out.
It's a reworked sa with a better coil and softies according to my sources but who cares as long as for the munny it performs?
They do like a lower tuning and smaller box
I've wondered if they were any good. I may keep an eye out for when they go off preorder.
 

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