Featured Speaker wiring

[Graybeard Biker]

Ok, I can’t be the first person that this has happened to… my saddlebag lid speaker wires broke into because I fill the saddle bags too much and the cargo pushes against the speaker connector.

My question is in repairing it. It would appear that the white wire out of the magnet (which broke super short next to the connectors) just goes to the positive connector tab? And the black to the negative? It’s inside the plastic casing that I can’t get to open up easily but it appears that’s the case. So if that’s true (and stop me if it’s not). Can I just bypass that short part of the wire and connect the longer piece to its corresponding tab directly without the little piece? (Little pieces are too small to salvage.

It seems to make sense but I’m not a speaker expert so I thought I’d ask first.

thanks

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[huberoy123 10+ year member]

Ok, I can’t be the first person that this has happened to… my saddlebag lid speaker wires broke into because I fill the saddle bags too much and the cargo pushes against the speaker connector.

My question is in repairing it. It would appear that the white wire out of the magnet (which broke super short next to the connectors) just goes to the positive connector tab? And the black to the negative? It’s inside the plastic casing that I can’t get to open up easily but it appears that’s the case. So if that’s true (and stop me if it’s not). Can I just bypass that short part of the wire and connect the longer piece to its corresponding tab directly without the little piece? (Little pieces are too small to salvage.

It seems to make sense but I’m not a speaker expert so I thought I’d ask first.

thanksView attachment 60525View attachment 60526View attachment 60527

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

it looks like you could get the same gauge wire as the current ones and extend the white and black wires. Use wire connector to make the connections or solder and use heat shrink tubing. Attach the extended wires to the appropriate speaker post. use your discretion on how you attach it. I would solder or use a crimp connector. Or you could wrap the wire securely around the posts if necessary. Good luck.

 

[Old_Slapper]

There are a couple ways to properly fix it to where it's durable. To best explain those ways, would involve a PowerPoint presentation. You would need industrial 2-part epoxy, a small metal 90* angle, and a soldering iron. I would recommend taking it to the nearest car audio shop and toss an installer $20 to fix it. It would save you a lot of time and money.

 

[Deiimos]

I would think you could use a small pop rivet to hold it back on, I can say JB Weld, Super Glue and such never held when I tried to reattach the terminal similar to this, always fell off. Might need to drill a hole in the center of the terminal, drill through the plastic to modify it to accept the rivet. A tiny nut and bolt could work too, but more chance it will vibrate loose. If you were to drill a hole and rivet it, be mindful not to drilled into the small broken wires or pinch them together etc, could short it out if not mindful.

As for the wires, if they need extended just add some wire, whatever stranded copper wire you can find really that is similar size, and solder it directly to the correct terminals, then to the wires, heat-shrink tubing insulation is handy for this too.

If you don’t have the tools, probably not worth buying them to fix just this speaker.

 

[Graybeard Biker]

it looks like you could get the same gauge wire as the current ones and extend the white and black wires. Use wire connector to make the connections or solder and use heat shrink tubing. Attach the extended wires to the appropriate speaker post. use your discretion on how you attach it. I would solder or use a crimp connector. Or you could wrap the wire securely around the posts if necessary. Good

I would think you could use a small pop rivet to hold it back on, I can say JB Weld, Super Glue and such never held when I tried to reattach the terminal similar to this, always fell off. Might need to drill a hole in the center of the terminal, drill through the plastic to modify it to accept the rivet. A tiny nut and bolt could work too, but more chance it will vibrate loose. If you were to drill a hole and rivet it, be mindful not to drilled into the small broken wires or pinch them together etc, could short it out if not mindful.

As for the wires, if they need extended just add some wire, whatever stranded copper wire you can find really that is similar size, and solder it directly to the correct terminals, then to the wires, heat-shrink tubing insulation is handy for this too.

If you don’t have the tools, probably not worth buying them to fix just this speaker.

Since the wires from the amp connect to these same post, couldn’t I extend the wires and connect to those wires from the amp, which will then connect to the speaker posts?

 

[Deiimos]

Since the wires from the amp connect to these same post, couldn’t I extend the wires and connect to those wires from the amp, which will then connect to the speaker posts?

If they indeed connect directly to the terminals where they ripped apart, then yes, you could extend them directly to the amp instead of fixing it. Try it, test it at lower volume, make sure it sounds okay and then secure it all as best as possible. Worst case swap the speaker out down the road if something goes wrong.

 

[Graybeard Biker]

Thanks. I’m gonna try it tomorrow and see what happens. Also, here is the top of the driver if that info helps any.

 

[Old_Slapper]

it looks like you could get the same gauge wire as the current ones and extend the white and black wires. Use wire connector to make the connections or solder and use heat shrink tubing. Attach the extended wires to the appropriate speaker post. use your discretion on how you attach it. I would solder or use a crimp connector. Or you could wrap the wire securely around the posts if necessary. Good luck.

The speaker post attachment is broken. That needs to be repaired in a way where he won't have this issue again.

 

[Graybeard Biker]

The speaker post attachment is broken. That needs to be repaired in a way where he won't have this issue again.

Any advice on how to do that? I tired to reshape it with pliers to put in the whole but it did t work… next thought is just E6000!

 

[Old_Slapper]

Thanks. I’m gonna try it tomorrow and see what happens. Also, here is the top of the driver if that info helps any.View attachment 60533

The speaker wires, that broke, go to the two small speakers in the middle of the 6x9. Those can be extended to your amp, or crimped onto new connectors for the speaker wires. To limit more wires being run, I would connect them to the wires that have already been run. However, your speaker connector still needs to be repaired. If you rivet it, you have a chance on shorting out the wires that are seen running in it, for the wires that just broke.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Any advice on how to do that? I tired to reshape it with pliers to put in the whole but it did t work… next thought is just E6000!

That is what I was referring to when I mentioned the epoxy glue and the little metal angle. You can angle the connecter up, instead of down. just make sure it won't hit the cone as the cone moves.