Speaker question?

[jatyro91]

I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the upgraded alpine system and u Connect 8.4 HU. These are my plans after loads of help from people on this site.

I'm going to install a Skar RP 2000.1 amp to power two American Bass XFL-12s. I'll also be installing a second battery to help with the load. Future sub plans involve adding a second RP to further power the subs.

I have no interest in replacing the head unit but the speakers sound muddy. My plans are to put components in the front door and one way midranges in the backdoor. I'm using a ppi 900.4 amp and an lcq1 for a LOC. I need recommendations for the speakers (140 watts rms) that are on the cheaper side after pouring all that money in elsewhere.

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

5 key words in that sentence is not replacing headunit......is gonna cause problems for ya down the road.
@Jeffdacheff

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I just don't understand people sometimes.....when something so simple, the heart of the system, that controls everything and it gets left out. 100-200 bucks for a new aftermarket HU with plentyful options is what I would do.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the upgraded alpine system and u Connect 8.4 HU. These are my plans after loads of help from people on this site.
I'm going to install a Skar RP 2000.1 amp to power two American Bass XFL-12s. I'll also be installing a second battery to help with the load. Future sub plans involve adding a second RP to further power the subs.

I have no interest in replacing the head unit but the speakers sound muddy. My plans are to put components in the front door and one way midranges in the backdoor. I'm using a ppi 900.4 amp and an lcq1 for a LOC. I need recommendations for the speakers (140 watts rms) that are on the cheaper side after pouring all that money in elsewhere.

horrible idea. Thats basically where every bit of sound quality starts with. If you truely want to keep the stock head unit, you need something that De Equalize the factory EQ curve and normalize the bass frequencies and properly process out a proper sub channel like a jl cleansweep. Audiocontrol is a joke.

here's an explanation from the thread that i just answered why this guy's setup sounded like sh*t and bass was weak and he was clipping left and right.

audio is recorded in 2.1 however in a car with stock head units its only processing 2.0 you are trying to get bass out of that 2.0 that has no direct subwoofer processing in it. Worse off, most stock head units have a built in high pass filter which limits bass. So you are fighting a super uphill battle. because you are trying to get bass signal out of a signal meant for midrange speakers which is nonexistent, then you try to boost that up which causes ridiculous amounts of distortion.

While aftermarket head units have dedicated subwoofer channel signal processing which decodes musical information purely for sub frequencies.

Every setup I had to fix that used audiocontrol LOCs was basically garbage even though they had good high end gear. All had garbage results why? They refused to swap the head unit out or invest in a proper DSP that defeats the factory EQ. Once a proper head unit was in, they ALLL gained massive SQ along with MASSIVE bass output. Along with not clipping and blowing sh*t. Nobody gets how utterly important the head unit is. What good is an amplifier if you are amplifying a sh*t signal to begin with

 

[jatyro91]

In a normal situation I would go after anext aftermarket HU just as I did in my impala. I'm not doing it this time because my headunit is a Uconnect8.4. I know a stock head unit is still a stock head unit but it is the upgraded version and it literally controls everything in the car from the navigation to phone calls to the heated seats and steering wheel. I don't see a 100-200 dollar aftermarket hu being able to compensate for the loss of all that functionality. Which is why I added the LOC equalizer to my list of needs

 

[jatyro91]

So to keep my HU I need something like the jl fix 86? Or the upcoming axxess dsp?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I'm going to install a Skar RP 2000.1 amp to power two American Bass XFL-12s. I'll also be installing a second battery to help with the load. Future sub plans involve adding a second RP to further power the subs.

If you keep in mind it takes 10 amps of current to make 100 watts that will suit you well when planning how much power your vehicle can realistically support, especially when it's all to power subwoofers.

Another helpful note: Doubling your power can get very expensive, very quickly, with not as much of a payoff in additional loudness as you might think. In theory, doubling power equals +3 dB. That's basically like turning up the volume a couple of clicks or digits.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with being thrifty in your spending, but the bass situation you proposed has potential to ramp up the $$$ in a hurry to do it right.

 

[jatyro91]

If you keep in mind it takes 10 amps of current to make 100 watts that will suit you well when planning how much power your vehicle can realistically support, especially when it's all to power subwoofers.
Another helpful note: Doubling your power can get very expensive, very quickly, with not as much of a payoff in additional loudness as you might think. In theory, doubling power equals +3 dB. That's basically like turning up the volume a couple of clicks or digits.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with being thrifty in your spending, but the bass situation you proposed has potential to ramp up the $$$ in a hurry to do it right.

So I may scrap the second amp idea

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

In a normal situation I would go after anext aftermarket HU just as I did in my impala. I'm not doing it this time because my headunit is a Uconnect8.4. I know a stock head unit is still a stock head unit but it is the upgraded version and it literally controls everything in the car from the navigation to phone calls to the heated seats and steering wheel. I don't see a 100-200 dollar aftermarket hu being able to compensate for the loss of all that functionality. Which is why I added the LOC equalizer to my list of needs

I mentioned 100-200 because it's a good starting point for a new HU. You didn't mention that your current stock HU has all those features/controls tied into it until now. That said, surely an 800 dollar double din HU will do the same and then some.

 

[jatyro91]

horrible idea. Thats basically where every bit of sound quality starts with. If you truely want to keep the stock head unit, you need something that De Equalize the factory EQ curve and normalize the bass frequencies and properly process out a proper sub channel like a jl cleansweep. Audiocontrol is a joke.

here's an explanation from the thread that i just answered why this guy's setup sounded like sh*t and bass was weak and he was clipping left and right.

audio is recorded in 2.1 however in a car with stock head units its only processing 2.0 you are trying to get bass out of that 2.0 that has no direct subwoofer processing in it. Worse off, most stock head units have a built in high pass filter which limits bass. So you are fighting a super uphill battle. because you are trying to get bass signal out of a signal meant for midrange speakers which is nonexistent, then you try to boost that up which causes ridiculous amounts of distortion.

While aftermarket head units have dedicated subwoofer channel signal processing which decodes musical information purely for sub frequencies.

Every setup I had to fix that used audiocontrol LOCs was basically garbage even though they had good high end gear. All had garbage results why? They refused to swap the head unit out or invest in a proper DSP that defeats the factory EQ. Once a proper head unit was in, they ALLL gained massive SQ along with MASSIVE bass output. Along with not clipping and blowing sh*t. Nobody gets how utterly important the head unit is. What good is an amplifier if you are amplifying a sh*t signal to begin with

Okay. I understand everything you said and I know you're right. My problem with taking out the HU is its a premium HU that controls far too many features of my car for me to remove from onstar to heated seats to phone intergrated to vehicle health reports. I have no problem saving to get a de-equalizer and doing things the right way. I'm not trying to cut corners, I'm trying to figure out the best way to do my system for the lowest cost but with the highest functionality. It seems that the JL Fix 86 has issues with the Audiocontrol equalizers. So, in your opinion do I just save for a fix 86 and skip an equalizer? Find a different eq? Or wait for the Metra Axxess DSP instead of the fix? Or something different entirely?

For reference, this is my HU: Uconnect® | Systems | 2016 Jeep Cherokee 8.4/RA3

And does it matter that the car does have a premium sound system with a factory amp and subwoofer already installed? Does that change anything?

 

[jatyro91]

I mentioned 100-200 because it's a good starting point for a new HU. You didn't mention that your current stock HU has all those features/controls tied into it until now. That said, surely an 800 dollar double din HU will do the same and then some.

No, sorry. I thought by dropping the name of the HU it wouldve been recognized (not sarcasm, entirely the truth). That being said, with money being how it is I would definitely rather spend the 500 on an equalizer and a processor than an $800 headunit.

 

[jatyro91]

Uconnect® | Systems | 2016 Jeep Cherokee 8.4/RA3

I was wrong. I actually have the: Uconnect® | Systems | 2016 Jeep Cherokee 8.4NAV/RA4

(Ra4 not ra3)

 

[JohnKuthe]

I just don't understand people sometimes.....when something so simple, the heart of the system, that controls everything and it gets left out. 100-200 bucks for a new aftermarket HU with plentyful options is what I would do.

You are consistently no help at all, you know that? :-(

John Kuthe...

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

You are consistently no help at all, you know that? :-(
John Kuthe...

stfu troll.

 

[jatyro91]

So Im getting the PACAP4 when it comes out at the end of the month to de-eq the HU. Down the road I will buy a proper Eq like the TwK to pair with it.

So back to my original question - 6x9 component suggestions for front door and 6.5 one way speakers for the back? Recommendations?