Sound System Serious Help.

Roll on the floor all you want, I don't think you could convince me that anything looks and fits better than the Thunderform. Might not be the best performance wise, but it simply looks like part of the car.
No doubt it looks nice, but it's behind a seat... looks don't flex windshields.

 
No doubt it looks nice, but it's behind a seat... looks don't flex windshields.
This is true, none the less I still think it looks the nicest and there's no reason to make fun of it's looks.

Anyways, I would love it if I could flex my windshield in a single cab.

 
This is true, none the less I still think it looks the nicest and there's no reason to make fun of it's looks.
Anyways, I would love it if I could flex my windshield in a single cab.
You can do that pretty easily, lol. The windshield in my Malibu flexed like crazy off a crap-brand 15 on 1000 watts... It's all about the enclosure, bud.

One of those 12's in the thread I linked would be great on your amp, too. Perfect power match. I understand your apprehension over buying something like that, over buying new off a site. But, he builds stuff to last/take some abuse.

 
You can do that pretty easily, lol. The windshield in my Malibu flexed like crazy off a crap-brand 15 on 1000 watts... It's all about the enclosure, bud.
One of those 12's in the thread I linked would be great on your amp, too. Perfect power match. I understand your apprehension over buying something like that, over buying new off a site. But, he builds stuff to last/take some abuse.
Went to AudioExpress where they told me upgrading from the BRZ1200.1D to a Kicker ZXS1000.1 would give me all that lacking bass I'm missing. I called Kicker because I was skeptical and they said the change would be so minute you wouldn't even notice it. None the less I'm in a tricky situation now.

Were any of the subwoofers listed here a single 1000RMS one that is fairly short? I don't want to have to adjust my seats anymore.

 
Went to AudioExpress where they told me upgrading from the BRZ1200.1D to a Kicker ZXS1000.1 would give me all that lacking bass I'm missing. I called Kicker because I was skeptical and they said the change would be so minute you wouldn't even notice it. None the less I'm in a tricky situation now.
Were any of the subwoofers listed here a single 1000RMS one that is fairly short? I don't want to have to adjust my seats anymore.
Im pretty sure somebody told you to not go to a shop and ask their opinion. All they do is try to sell you something.. What coil are your subs? Dual 2? If so you are not wired at 1.5 you are wired at 2. With rise and voltage drop from that not the best amp you might get 800 watts. You have a pair of OK at best 10s sealed on 800 watts. What are you expecting?

 
Im pretty sure somebody told you to not go to a shop and ask their opinion. All they do is try to sell you something.. What coil are your subs? Dual 2? If so you are not wired at 1.5 you are wired at 2. With rise and voltage drop from that not the best amp you might get 800 watts. You have a pair of OK at best 10s sealed on 800 watts. What are you expecting?
I went there to make sure it wasn't just me who thought my bass is lacking. I needed the opinion and I got it. I didn't buy anything from them. They are dual 2 ohm coils wired at 2 ohms with a measured impedance of 1.5 ohms giving me around 1050RMS. It's a single cab truck, what I expected is a huge upgrade from 400 watts.

 
I went there to make sure it wasn't just me who thought my bass is lacking. I needed the opinion and I got it. I didn't buy anything from them. They are dual 2 ohm coils wired at 2 ohms with a measured impedance of 1.5 ohms giving me around 1050RMS. It's a single cab truck, what I expected is a huge upgrade from 400 watts.
Your not listening. You are wired at dual 2 NOT 1.5. It dont work like that. You are getting voltage drop which pulls your power down even more. You are getting box rise which pulls your power down even more. you have a pretty ****** amp that pulls your power down even more. You have two decent but thats it 10s in a sealed box. if you want more get better gear, stronger electrical, and a better box. i would start with the box and go from there.

 
Your not listening. You are wired at dual 2 NOT 1.5. It dont work like that. You are getting voltage drop which pulls your power down even more. You are getting box rise which pulls your power down even more. you have a pretty ****** amp that pulls your power down even more. You have two decent but thats it 10s in a sealed box. if you want more get better gear, stronger electrical, and a better box. i would start with the box and go from there.
Tell me all you want, I measured the Ohm load with a Multimeter and it gave me 1.5 Ohms, it's not uncommon. They might be wired to 2 Ohms which is what I was going for, but the actual impedance is 1.5 Ohms.

What you're saying is a complete system redo, which others have suggested.

 
Tell me all you want, I measured the Ohm load with a Multimeter and it gave me 1.5 Ohms, it's not uncommon. They might be wired to 2 Ohms which is what I was going for, but the actual impedance is 1.5 Ohms.
What you're saying is a complete system redo, which others have suggested.
I dont care what your multi meter says. IT DONT WORK LIKE THAT. Im saying start with a better box, if not enough get better equipment. You should be able to run 150clean watts after you do the big 3, a bit more if you get a good AGM under the hood.

 
I dont care what your multi meter says. IT DONT WORK LIKE THAT. Im saying start with a better box, if not enough get better equipment. You should be able to run 150clean watts after you do the big 3, a bit more if you get a good AGM under the hood.
I've already explain how the Ohm load was received in an earlier post.

And thanks, I still have to figure out the next step in terms of a new box.

 
I've already explain how the Ohm load was received in an earlier post.
And thanks, I still have to figure out the next step in terms of a new box.
I read your post. Like I said, it dont work like that. There is always a bit of variation in coils. You are wired at 2 ohms. If you hook those up to a 2 ohm stable kicker amp that will shut off if it sees any less then 2 ohms it WILL NOT shut off. Unless you have a really high dollar meter you will not read the coils exact.

 
alot of fail going on in this thread....lulz.

As a seasoned competitior and box enclosure guru.....just build a box that fits for one of the 10's or buy a decent 12". Your amp is fine. Yes, it's not a copper chassis Tru but its enough to get ya bumping. I put a similar amp on my wall for shits and giggles and almost pulled off a 150 db from it. Its all about the enclosure.

 
alot of fail going on in this thread....lulz.
As a seasoned competitior and box enclosure guru.....just build a box that fits for one of the 10's or buy a decent 12". Your amp is fine. Yes, it's not a copper chassis Tru but its enough to get ya bumping. I put a similar amp on my wall for shits and giggles and almost pulled off a 150 db from it. Its all about the enclosure.
I will take some measurements of my truck and see exactly how much I can fit in there.

Ultimately I'd want my setup like this: http://bit.ly/MG7jmF

Looks nice and doesn't sound bad.

 
lol, this thread is very frustrating to read...

OP, these guys are full of great advice. Quit asking for a 'quick fix' when there isn't really one. It's going to take some labor and effort on your part, or $$$ in better equipment.

Good luck with your system..

 
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