something not too interesting (door deadening)....

[inapontiac 10+ year member]

might as well share these, u know, get my post count up and all....haha

these pictures are from a typical 1.3megapixel camera phone...

the door after me getting tired of peel and seal, roller, and propane.....

ahh the abused memphis 4x6s.....

a hole i had to cut because apparently i covered the hole about 5 layers back or so...

and another random picture of the door

and this is how much i had left after just the driver's door

yea i know, its only one door but I'm in no hurry. ill see how popular this deadening thread gets and we will see about any updates. plus I'm getting my re8s in around the middle of next week and I'm going to be doing something fun with them somewhere in my car.....

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[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

I'd get some sheetmetal and fill in that big ass hole, so you can cover it.

And do the outer doorskin and the part behind the door mechanism. Stuff is so cheap you can go crazy with it...

 

[inapontiac 10+ year member]

so you say fill in that hole? i was thinking to stretch some over it but then i was a lil worried.

 

[senbonzakera 10+ year member]

Stuff is so cheap you can go crazy with it...

cheap where???? tell me

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

so you say fill in that hole? i was thinking to stretch some over it but then i was a lil worried.

Yes, cover that hole as well as possible. I generally use very thin plywood from the hardware store (like 1/8") cut to shape and screwed in place, then covered with a layer or two of mat. This works much better than simply stretching the mat material across the gap. It will be more rigid, help stiffen the door (alot in some cases) and wont flex as your mids kick out the beats.

It was sort of silly laying multiple layers of mat strips like 3" wide, all the way around it, while leaving that gaping huge hole for sound to pass right thru. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[inapontiac 10+ year member]

Yes, cover that hole as well as possible. I generally use very thin plywood from the hardware store (like 1/8") cut to shape and screwed in place, then covered with a layer or two of mat. This works much better than simply stretching the mat material across the gap. It will be more rigid, help stiffen the door (alot in some cases) and wont flex as your mids kick out the beats.
It was sort of silly laying multiple layers of mat strips like 3" wide, all the way around it, while leaving that gaping huge hole for sound to pass right thru. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Haha yea yea. Just have a lil problem with my passenger side door with the handle mechanism failing and me having to go in and fix it. I just tried to put that many layers to weight it down. I think I might drill a thin piece ofwood or so like u said or somethin. We wil see.

 

[JohnnyChuttz 10+ year member]

Just cover it with deadener. Thats what I did, but my big hole was smaller and I bought way too much mat.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

If you need to access the inside of the door regularly, just leave the heads of the screws (that hold the wood to the door) exosed, and do not actually mat the wood TO the door. That way you can uncrew the panel, pop it off, do your thing, then pop it back on. Wood is a good dead material anyway, it'll absorb sound better than the sheetmetal, and with a layer or two of mat on it it will cease to be the weak-spot in your deadening job, and end up as the deadest area in the doors.

Just leave small slots/holes for any door/lock linkage etc and you should be good to go.

 

[Civic96Lx 10+ year member]

i saw that someone use like 5 layers of duck tape as a deadener, would that be able to work???

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Just cover it with deadener. Thats what I did, but my big hole was smaller and I bought way too much mat.

The mat will just flap then. You are using your doors as speaker baffles now, would you want your enclosure/baffle to flap in and out as the cone moves? I moved away from that technique long ago, and so should you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Good decoupling job with the clay though.

i saw that someone use like 5 layers of duck tape as a deadener, would that be able to work???

Negative.

 

[Civic96Lx 10+ year member]

 

[inapontiac 10+ year member]

Wow thanks guys. I've some some pretty thin stuff around here and cover it all up soon.

 

[sundownz Pro Seller]

I like to use aluminum tape to cover the hole first -- the thickest tape you can find and several layers, nice and tight, until you have a rigid base. Then use a stiff deadener like Second Skin Damplifier (or Peel & Seal if you have to). Avoid soft backed deadeners like Edead V1SE and SE^2 for this part. Works just as well as wood in my experience as I have done both.

 

[tmoney 10+ year member]

how many layers r u putting on. how many layers are really need.

 

[inapontiac 10+ year member]

also, civic96lx, u cant open your door from the inside?