I goofed! Too much amp!

I thought the gain setting was to get the right match for the signal from your source stereo; to your amplifier?? Also, I've heard regularly that the gain knob is not a volume knob, If the gain isn't set to match the source output, wouldn't that affect the quality of the signal?? Someone help me better understand the previous replies regarding setting the gain. Thanks
I want to hear and learn from these questions myself. Great pointing these issues out man. I am still learning as well man.

eating popcorn GIF
 
I thought the gain setting was to get the right match for the signal from your source stereo; to your amplifier?? Also, I've heard regularly that the gain knob is not a volume knob, If the gain isn't set to match the source output, wouldn't that affect the quality of the signal?? Someone help me better understand the previous replies regarding setting the gain. Thanks
That first sentence is correct. It's to match the rca voltage from your headunit. That second sentence is partially correct. Setting the gain too high can cause clipping which will distort the signal, but as far as I'm aware, setting the gain lower will just result in the signal not being amplified as much as it could be. That shouldnt effect the quality of the signal being produced by the amp.
 
Gains should always be set to match the output signal from HU to the amplifier, for MOST users. Manipulation of this adjustment should be left to experienced individuals only- IMHO. Unless one knows what they are doing (and why), this avoids overdriving an amplifier into clipping which, again, for MOST people, is never a good thing.
 
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That first sentence is correct. It's to match the rca voltage from your headunit. That second sentence is partially correct. Setting the gain too high can cause clipping which will distort the signal, but as far as I'm aware, setting the gain lower will just result in the signal not being amplified as much as it could be. That shouldnt effect the quality of the signal being produced by the amp.
Correct, (but just to make sure it's clear), a head unit, and an amp, can both cause clipping. If you don't clip off the head unit, and you turn the gain down below the output of rated power, then all you're doing is the same thing as turning the volume down when they are properly set. You are just sending lower voltage then the speakers can handle.

The thing is, you would usually have to go well over rated power to clip on the amp. An amp is usually rated below .1% THD, but clipping may not happen until over 1%. On a head unit, you can start clipping by going just one number over rated power, and most people just assume that the max number is the rated output. What I think most people don't realize is that you are far more likely to clip from the head unit then the amp.
 
I'm running a 2500-watt amp to 2 Focal Polyglass 33 V2's rated at 400 watts RMS each (Focal rates its drivers very conservatively). At 4 ohms the amp is still putting out 1000 watts. The amp is designed to operate down to 1 ohm but amps are most efficient and have more effective damping (woofer cone control) at 4 ohms. It's just the way I rock ('N' roll)!

;)
This is good info, thanks. I wondered what the downside was to running low ohms other than the dangers of an amp not being stable that low. Maybe I'll rethink shooting for 1 ohm. Would 2 ohm make that much of a difference? Not sure if I want to go up to 4 ohm because of the cost but SQ is my ultimate goal so...
 
Is Skar crap? LOL
Probably but I just want to get some bass into my car until I can afford what I really want, JL W6's. :)
Skar ain't bad...at least their amps do about rated unlike some other budget brands...I don't know about the subs because I've only heard them in high-tuned prefab boxes...a box built to spec for a sub has more impact on performance than anything else...My one dealing with their customer service was bad enough that I wouldn't buy their products 😂 but I've seen lots of people happy with skar gear and that's really all that matters...



JL makes a great sub and the price tag definitely shows how proud they are of them...there's quite a few sub that perform as well (at least imo) and cost quite a bit less...
 
For me, SPL is not the goal. That said, even a 1000 watts to a pair of 13" subs is not tolerable in a car for more than a few minutes.
 
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This is good info, thanks. I wondered what the downside was to running low ohms other than the dangers of an amp not being stable that low. Maybe I'll rethink shooting for 1 ohm. Would 2 ohm make that much of a difference? Not sure if I want to go up to 4 ohm because of the cost but SQ is my ultimate goal so...
As long as your amp is stable at 1ohm...I don't think there's really a significant downside to running at 1 ohm
 
For me, SPL is not the goal. That said, even a 1000 watts to a pair of 13" subs is not tolerable in a car for more than a few seconds.
I'm definitely after SQ, hence the sealed box. I was just thinking, for the price (of the Skars), I can get SOME subwoofer into my car but if it really *****, I haven't lost much and it will be better than nothing. I'm aggressively paying down my debts so a proper setup is not in the cards until maybe next summer.
 
As long as your amp is stable at 1ohm...I don't think there's really a significant downside to running at 1 ohm

I'm definitely after SQ, hence the sealed box. I was just thinking, for the price (of the Skars), I can get SOME subwoofer into my car but if it really *****, I haven't lost much and it will be better than nothing. I'm aggressively paying down my debts so a proper setup is not in the cards until maybe next summer.
Remind me, which Skars and what amp?
 
Remind me, which Skars and what amp?
I'm embarrassed to say LOL but I got ****** in by their sale flyers. Two 10" subs for $160, though the amp was more than I wanted to spend.

Skar SKv2-1500.1D amp
SDR-10 (2) dual 4 ohm voice coils
Sealed box, 2 chambers each near the 0.8 cu. ft. chamber volume.

I want smooth frequency response, no boom. I plan to have W6's once I get caught up with my debts. I'm interested in doing a tube isobaric setup.
 
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Ah, someone said "The amp is designed to operate down to 1 ohm but amps are most efficient and have more effective damping (woofer cone control) at 4 ohms.". You don't agree?
Dampening isn't the end all...a decent amp will still control a sub just fine at 1 ohm...unless you're going for an emma type sq build...

At 4 ohm most amps are more efficient but you also pay more for power...my amp for example is about 90% efficient at 4ohm and around 80% efficient at 1 ohm...the price tag for an amp that does 3k at ohm will be quite a bit more money than one that does 3k at 1 ohm...so it's a tradeoff...
 
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