I goofed! Too much amp!

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Well, you could go with a series-parallel connection and end up with 1.6 ohms to the amp. One woofer both coils in series, = 8, the other woofer, both coils in parallel =2, both subs in parallel to the amp, 1.6ohms. That will draw a little over or right at 1000 watts. If you replace the terminal cups on the subs, as I do, exposing all 4 coil connections (for each sub) on the outside of the box, you can manipulate this on the fly, trying 1, 1.6, 4, and pick what you like. Everyone is correct here and at the end of the day, in my opinion, 1000 watts to a pair of twelve-inch subs is really damn loud, I mean REALLY loud! IMHO, if you can't stand the volume at 1000 watts, why push the system to do more? Amps play better, last longer, and stay cooler running above 1ohm. It does cost you more to do this, but that skar amp is decent enough and will give you close to or a little above 1000 watts at 1.6, win/win.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Gains should always be set to match the output signal from HU to the amplifier, for MOST users. Manipulation of this adjustment should be left to experienced individuals only- IMHO. Unless one knows what they are doing (and why), this avoids overdriving an amplifier into clipping which, again, for MOST people, is never a good thing.

Agreed. I guess Ive been using that 75% rule for years and even backing off a 1/4. I still tune by ear most of the time and have had great results over time. I can be standing in front of someone having a conversation and if music is playing, near by or in a bay Ill hear that and and not the individual in front of me and have to read lips usually. Kind of strange to explain but Ive always been that way?? Im not perfect on tuning, but I can get pretty close, though everyone has theyre own listening expectations and wants. what sounds good to me may be trash to others. SPL is a total different animal rather than SQ or SQL so to speak.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Is Skar crap? LOL
Probably but I just want to get some bass into my car until I can afford what I really want, JL W6's.

If you want some bass in the car or vehicle and save for that sub you always wanted or want, Id recommend looking at the Lanzar MaxPro subs. They are Cheap, and they do very well to fill the void. I ran a pair back when I had my 90 240sx and had them on an old Autotek Mean Machine 99, and they Slammed for a pair of 10s. they were just temps until I got a warranty worked out on some Audioque 10s(now S.qubed). American Bass has some decent budget friendly subs to consider,CT Sounds, and several others. stick to a budget, and look for what is available in your price range. You can always ask about them as you are doing here, and get some real experienced user results rather than site reviews.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

As long as your amp is stable at 1ohm...I don't think there's really a significant downside to running at 1 ohm

The only other would be that the vehicles electrical system can produce the supply for the demand. running a Class D usually helps quite a bit

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I'm definitely after SQ, hence the sealed box. I was just thinking, for the price (of the Skars), I can get SOME subwoofer into my car but if it really *****, I haven't lost much and it will be better than nothing. I'm aggressively paying down my debts so a proper setup is not in the cards until maybe next summer.

Ive heard and read over and over and time and time again from several SQ people and have sat in several Demos of this sub and everyone Loves this sub. they do sound pretty good. Maybe one to consider rather than a JL sub?Maybe even look into some audio shows or Meets to get a demo or two.

https://www.parts-express.com/Adire...IrhilnupSuRpHFndB62DnO5ib1Y32DS0aAvThEALw_wcB

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I'm embarrassed to say LOL but I got ****** in by their sale flyers. Two 10" subs for $160, though the amp was more than I wanted to spend.

Skar SKv2-1500.1D amp
SDR-10 (2) dual 4 ohm voice coils
Sealed box, 2 chambers each near the 0.8 cu. ft. chamber volume.

I want smooth frequency response, no boom. I plan to have W6's once I get caught up with my debts. I'm interested in doing a tube isobaric setup.

Why be embarrassed?? Some people would love to have this set up. Its deff better than what Ive got in two of my other rides atm(Stock GM garbage). Hell.. Id run it. dammned sure better than most stock systems for sure. run what you have and save for that Want you know. everyone Wants NOW, rather than waiting and or piecing together what they really want. Its taking me years to get stuff I really want, and there are some that I still want, and havent got. I still want another set
of Polk Audio MM 2200 Mid/tweet combo that were stolen out of my car back in the 90s, that Ill prob never find or get again

https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/7/5/0/2/54936.jpg

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If you want some bass in the car or vehicle and save for that sub you always wanted or want, Id recommend looking at the Lanzar MaxPro subs. They are Cheap, and they do very well to fill the void. I ran a pair back when I had my 90 240sx and had them on an old Autotek Mean Machine 99, and they Slammed for a pair of 10s. they were just temps until I got a warranty worked out on some Audioque 10s(now S.qubed). American Bass has some decent budget friendly subs to consider,CT Sounds, and several others. stick to a budget, and look for what is available in your price range. You can always ask about them as you are doing here, and get some real experienced user results rather than site reviews.

Im sure you could find them cheaper looking and searching. Are they top notch brand named subs??NO.. will they sound good?? Depends on the application and enclosure as with any sub. Will they produce bass needed? Yes. would I recommend them in a budget install? Yes, and i have used these and they do very well for the $.

Amazon product ASIN B000E457DM

 

[spokey9]

The only other would be that the vehicles electrical system can produce the supply for the demand. running a Class D usually helps quite a bit

I was assuming most vehicles can handle a 1500w class d on stock electrical

I love some class D...I remember 300-500w ab toasters being able to about turn off headlights

 

[spokey9]

Im sure you could find them cheaper looking and searching. Are they top notch brand named subs??NO.. will they sound good?? Depends on the application and enclosure as with any sub. Will they produce bass needed? Yes. would I recommend them in a budget install? Yes, and i have used these and they do very well for the $.

Amazon product ASIN B000E457DM

One the guys that came and went from my work (think he quit after a week) had a lanzar 12 in his s10...it sounded pretty good in a sealed box...probably would've sounded better if it wasn't sitting right next to you firing into the seat though

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I was assuming most vehicles can handle a 1500w class d on stock electrical

I love some class D...I remember 300-500w ab toasters being able to about turn off headlights

Most of these newer vehicles electrical systems are Taxed to the limits. you can really tell when you kick on that A/C button.LOL.
I still have some old A/B amps that will **** the life out of a vehicles electrical system man. Ill bet I could light up a cigarette on a few if i couldnt find my Bic or Zippo

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

One the guys that came and went from my work (think he quit after a week) had a lanzar 12 in his s10...it sounded pretty good in a sealed box...probably would've sounded better if it wasn't sitting right next to you firing into the seat though

 

[spokey9]

Most of these newer vehicles electrical systems are Taxed to the limits. you can really tell when you kick on that A/C button.LOL.
I still have some old A/B amps that will **** the life out of a vehicles electrical system man. Ill bet I could light up a cigarette on a few if i couldnt find my Bic or Zippo

The one and only mtx amp I've run was like that (it was black with the fake chrome platistic badging back in '01 I think) the first time I made a trip up to squim (about 2 hrs from tacoma) I popped my truck and heat just rolled out of there...I was scared to touch it