Some weird s***....


Johnny2900

CarAudio.com Newbie
Mar 1, 2021
3
1
South Carolina
Mixture of chevy issue and audio issue. As of yesterday in my 2011 chevy cruse LT1, about 5 hours after installing/adding a 2 AWG strapped motor to frame (negative battery post) ground cable. I went and took a ride at about 9pm. This has never happened before even with original choked grounds. I was little under half way up driving home minding my business. Than up comes “battery saver active” on my dash. Quickly checked my self added volt meter connected at the amplifier thinking I lost the alternator, odd... 14.6V. Even more odd, with stock grounds my db drive Okur A3 ran cool as a cucumber. Now, it’s quickly warming up and even beginning to melt my 4 AWG copper power & ground conduit at the amplifier input. I read up that adding a second ground to the negative post is a no no, creating confusion within the current sensor and making the module trip into thinking system voltage is almost depleted. I’m getting back at it this morning and doing the ground correctly, motor to frame. And hope like hell I’m back in the clear and away from that warning. I’ve only done battery to frame 2AWG OFC upgrade (yes I ran the wire threw the sensor) and strapped motor to frame (original ground and another 2G added) my amplifier draws 100A of current at 1 ohm. Well I got it at 2 ohms, should only draw 45-60 amps. Voltage stays stable, 13.9 under deep drops and acceleration. 14-15.2 without amp going. Lowest voltage to amplifier was split second 13.8v. Should be no reason my amp is now magically wanting to thermal run away, especially with partial big 3 done, clean connections and proper wiring used. My lights dim 2x harder than they did before I added this new kinda half assed motor to battery ground. The amp fights thermal, and at amps input my power and ground are seemingly beginning to look like they are melting some?¿ wire is 4 AWG OFC battery to amp, and a very short 4AWG OFC ground self tapped to sanded frame. Giving this all began after that ground addition, it’s safe to say bingo. That’s the problem, but I’m making this just in case for whatever reason. It isn’t. Battery is 3 months old, alternator is unknown looks to be good condition. I went replacing grounds to ease my severe VD caused by restricted wire. Instead I opened a new doorway to hell. Anyone with a newer model chevy or the first gen cruse please comment if you’ve ever been in this boat. I’ve owned the car only 3 months and has 76k on the odometer. NO CEL, battery light or any lights thrown. Just the “battery saver active” after about 10 mins of half volume. Even with it active, voltage stays way above the 11v that causes this code. Buy a GM they said. Throw a system in it they said. Any help/ thoughts pointers are well appreciated!
 

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dragon.breath

Senior VIP Member
10+ year member
Nov 22, 2007
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Al
Sounds like something else is going on. Adding a extra ground should not cause the problem described.
 

Johnny2900

CarAudio.com Newbie
Mar 1, 2021
3
1
South Carolina
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
Looking into the newer model cars with the current sensors it seems as if you can’t send 2 grounds to the negative battery post. It confuses the modules and sensor and throws codes to eachother believing voltage is below 11v entering battery saver. Which that’s all I got last night/ earlier, 3x entering battery saver. Additional fault codes should have came after. Or the loss of electronics which I lost none and voltage stayed 14.5 strong. nothing like this happened before I did the motor to battery ground. I’m testing the theory now, I switched from battery to frame and getting ready to take it on a test run. Idol is smooth again and throttle response is up some. Hopefully that results in good news. Will update as time goes. As for the wires beginning to take excessive heat damage, I got no idea. It’s 4AWG copper welding cable so I know it’s well capable of passing the current 45-60A without harm done. The question is, why is there now harm being done. Why wasn’t harm done with the stock 8G battery to frame along with the wimpy stock motor to frame ground. My cobalt had 2 amps in it drawing 130A alone. Stock wiring, second battery added. 110A alternator. Only cheap class AB’s went thermal on me. Never once did I loose an alternator, battery or get some dumbass issue like this. Not to mention the cobalt had a bad ground and was force fed ground threw the fuse block. Gotta be because car electronics from today’s age are super damn sensitive
 

Johnny2900

CarAudio.com Newbie
Mar 1, 2021
3
1
South Carolina
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
All honesty, I bought a upgraded battery post and I wanted to get my money’s worth from it lol the whole time I feared some dumb shit like this would happen, thank god it was recognized and fixed before damage was done threw the charge system.
 
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