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Some weird s***....
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<blockquote data-quote="Johnny2900" data-source="post: 8736529" data-attributes="member: 682344"><p>Mixture of chevy issue and audio issue. As of yesterday in my 2011 chevy cruse LT1, about 5 hours after installing/adding a 2 AWG strapped motor to frame (negative battery post) ground cable. I went and took a ride at about 9pm. This has never happened before even with original choked grounds. I was little under half way up driving home minding my business. Than up comes “battery saver active” on my dash. Quickly checked my self added volt meter connected at the amplifier thinking I lost the alternator, odd... 14.6V. Even more odd, with stock grounds my db drive Okur A3 ran cool as a cucumber. Now, it’s quickly warming up and even beginning to melt my 4 AWG copper power & ground conduit at the amplifier input. I read up that adding a second ground to the negative post is a no no, creating confusion within the current sensor and making the module trip into thinking system voltage is almost depleted. I’m getting back at it this morning and doing the ground correctly, motor to frame. And hope like hell I’m back in the clear and away from that warning. I’ve only done battery to frame 2AWG OFC upgrade (yes I ran the wire threw the sensor) and strapped motor to frame (original ground and another 2G added) my amplifier draws 100A of current at 1 ohm. Well I got it at 2 ohms, should only draw 45-60 amps. Voltage stays stable, 13.9 under deep drops and acceleration. 14-15.2 without amp going. Lowest voltage to amplifier was split second 13.8v. Should be no reason my amp is now magically wanting to thermal run away, especially with partial big 3 done, clean connections and proper wiring used. My lights dim 2x harder than they did before I added this new kinda half assed motor to battery ground. The amp fights thermal, and at amps input my power and ground are seemingly beginning to look like they are melting some?¿ wire is 4 AWG OFC battery to amp, and a very short 4AWG OFC ground self tapped to sanded frame. Giving this all began after that ground addition, it’s safe to say bingo. That’s the problem, but I’m making this just in case for whatever reason. It isn’t. Battery is 3 months old, alternator is unknown looks to be good condition. I went replacing grounds to ease my severe VD caused by restricted wire. Instead I opened a new doorway to hell. Anyone with a newer model chevy or the first gen cruse please comment if you’ve ever been in this boat. I’ve owned the car only 3 months and has 76k on the odometer. NO CEL, battery light or any lights thrown. Just the “battery saver active” after about 10 mins of half volume. Even with it active, voltage stays way above the 11v that causes this code. Buy a GM they said. Throw a system in it they said. Any help/ thoughts pointers are well appreciated!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Johnny2900, post: 8736529, member: 682344"] Mixture of chevy issue and audio issue. As of yesterday in my 2011 chevy cruse LT1, about 5 hours after installing/adding a 2 AWG strapped motor to frame (negative battery post) ground cable. I went and took a ride at about 9pm. This has never happened before even with original choked grounds. I was little under half way up driving home minding my business. Than up comes “battery saver active” on my dash. Quickly checked my self added volt meter connected at the amplifier thinking I lost the alternator, odd... 14.6V. Even more odd, with stock grounds my db drive Okur A3 ran cool as a cucumber. Now, it’s quickly warming up and even beginning to melt my 4 AWG copper power & ground conduit at the amplifier input. I read up that adding a second ground to the negative post is a no no, creating confusion within the current sensor and making the module trip into thinking system voltage is almost depleted. I’m getting back at it this morning and doing the ground correctly, motor to frame. And hope like hell I’m back in the clear and away from that warning. I’ve only done battery to frame 2AWG OFC upgrade (yes I ran the wire threw the sensor) and strapped motor to frame (original ground and another 2G added) my amplifier draws 100A of current at 1 ohm. Well I got it at 2 ohms, should only draw 45-60 amps. Voltage stays stable, 13.9 under deep drops and acceleration. 14-15.2 without amp going. Lowest voltage to amplifier was split second 13.8v. Should be no reason my amp is now magically wanting to thermal run away, especially with partial big 3 done, clean connections and proper wiring used. My lights dim 2x harder than they did before I added this new kinda half assed motor to battery ground. The amp fights thermal, and at amps input my power and ground are seemingly beginning to look like they are melting some?¿ wire is 4 AWG OFC battery to amp, and a very short 4AWG OFC ground self tapped to sanded frame. Giving this all began after that ground addition, it’s safe to say bingo. That’s the problem, but I’m making this just in case for whatever reason. It isn’t. Battery is 3 months old, alternator is unknown looks to be good condition. I went replacing grounds to ease my severe VD caused by restricted wire. Instead I opened a new doorway to hell. Anyone with a newer model chevy or the first gen cruse please comment if you’ve ever been in this boat. I’ve owned the car only 3 months and has 76k on the odometer. NO CEL, battery light or any lights thrown. Just the “battery saver active” after about 10 mins of half volume. Even with it active, voltage stays way above the 11v that causes this code. Buy a GM they said. Throw a system in it they said. Any help/ thoughts pointers are well appreciated! [/QUOTE]
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