Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="Johnny2900" data-source="post: 8736533" data-attributes="member: 682344"><p>Looking into the newer model cars with the current sensors it seems as if you can’t send 2 grounds to the negative battery post. It confuses the modules and sensor and throws codes to eachother believing voltage is below 11v entering battery saver. Which that’s all I got last night/ earlier, 3x entering battery saver. Additional fault codes should have came after. Or the loss of electronics which I lost none and voltage stayed 14.5 strong. nothing like this happened before I did the motor to battery ground. I’m testing the theory now, I switched from battery to frame and getting ready to take it on a test run. Idol is smooth again and throttle response is up some. Hopefully that results in good news. Will update as time goes. As for the wires beginning to take excessive heat damage, I got no idea. It’s 4AWG copper welding cable so I know it’s well capable of passing the current 45-60A without harm done. The question is, why is there now harm being done. Why wasn’t harm done with the stock 8G battery to frame along with the wimpy stock motor to frame ground. My cobalt had 2 amps in it drawing 130A alone. Stock wiring, second battery added. 110A alternator. Only cheap class AB’s went thermal on me. Never once did I loose an alternator, battery or get some dumbass issue like this. Not to mention the cobalt had a bad ground and was force fed ground threw the fuse block. Gotta be because car electronics from today’s age are super damn sensitive</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="Johnny2900, post: 8736533, member: 682344"] Looking into the newer model cars with the current sensors it seems as if you can’t send 2 grounds to the negative battery post. It confuses the modules and sensor and throws codes to eachother believing voltage is below 11v entering battery saver. Which that’s all I got last night/ earlier, 3x entering battery saver. Additional fault codes should have came after. Or the loss of electronics which I lost none and voltage stayed 14.5 strong. nothing like this happened before I did the motor to battery ground. I’m testing the theory now, I switched from battery to frame and getting ready to take it on a test run. Idol is smooth again and throttle response is up some. Hopefully that results in good news. Will update as time goes. As for the wires beginning to take excessive heat damage, I got no idea. It’s 4AWG copper welding cable so I know it’s well capable of passing the current 45-60A without harm done. The question is, why is there now harm being done. Why wasn’t harm done with the stock 8G battery to frame along with the wimpy stock motor to frame ground. My cobalt had 2 amps in it drawing 130A alone. Stock wiring, second battery added. 110A alternator. Only cheap class AB’s went thermal on me. Never once did I loose an alternator, battery or get some dumbass issue like this. Not to mention the cobalt had a bad ground and was force fed ground threw the fuse block. Gotta be because car electronics from today’s age are super damn sensitive [/QUOTE]

Verification