Dont even bother with those EQs, that piece of junk just cuts and screws with the music quality, not really bringing much to the table in terms of precision sound control. Get a good head unit, makes 100X more difference in killing the shrills or whatever then that clarion EQ could have ever done for me. Snag an 80prs man.
Yeah, I am hearing ya. I really don't have a place to mount stuff like that for convenience anyway. As a couple are suggesting....the PRS80 would seem to be a better step up and not totally break the bank....plus I am sure I could reclaim money on the Alpine as well. The fact that you have Killswitch Engage as your avatar would seem to indicate that you have wrestled with the same kind of things.
Hopefully you can see how this statement doesn't help me at all. So you are just going to hold on to all the great information you have? Why not tell me the factors if you have em. I am not sure you are reading much of what I am typing. I get great sound the vast majority of stuff I play. I am not far off from maximizing the SQ I can get from the setup. But I am certainly not going to be able to build pods into the car and things like that if that is what you are suggesting. But you are suggesting nothing and simply guessing. So I am under the impression you are here to troll around.
Ok.
These thing look like the next level of the game for sure. It's got my name written all over it...but I will have to wait before I can spend that kind of money yet. I am salivating though.
Having that level of control will likely reveal the source of your issue. Needing excessive boost or cut at a given frequency is more likely an acoustic issue that can be solved through re-locating drivers or phase adjustment (assuming the issue is at or around crossover points). Going "active" crossover may help a lot as well.
Not all acoustical issues inside cars can be solved....and I don't know of any other settings\treatments I can do. I cannot relocate drivers, it is not practical and I see no other locations available. If you have any ideas as to how I could do that, please let me know. The best I might be able to do is to get different angles at current positions...but it will take a bit to get to that. What measures do you think I should take to eliminate shrill at high volumes? I agree, it seems excessive to need that much cut at 1.2K, 2.6K and 4K...but while using a Sine generator...I can tell that is where it hurts....so I apply 4-7 DB cuts at those points...not really excessive as I can see it, but what else would cause the shrill with music that is saturating the entire bandwidth like slammed level CD's. Older ones with better dynamic headroom...they sound great. Don't get the idea that it sounds horrible in my car....it seems to need a little additional help getting louder. If there are additional treatments I can do...I would be willing to try. In the Sentra...the speakers do have a slight angled tilt to the listening positions....but the tweets could be better...I will try to adjust those first. Overall, I have dealt with worse interiors than the Sentra...it sounds pretty dead for the most part.
Yeah, you simply don't get the same power from your amps without solid power....looks like I have that at last measurement..
What's the crossover point between mid and tweeter
I have a passive setup with the comps up front using the Morel Tempo 6 Xover Unit that came with them. Here is all the specs you'd ever want to know I believe. I elected to not attenuate the tweeter -3db and left it at zero.
