Smaller sub for fast beats...

[Termlab 10+ year member]

there is going to be a difference between 38 and 35 hz yes, but i dont know who all would be able to hear that. it sounds like you have an untrained ear, so i doubt you would notice. but either way i think you would be happy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif i just prefer my own boxs to be tuned at roughly 38 - 40 hz. i listen to all kinds of music also. rap rock... all of it basically.

 

[MonkeyWithACold 10+ year member]

Yeah, i certainly have a untrained ear. So i suppose tuning to 38Hz would be the best in that case?

 

[Naxis2k1 10+ year member]

i would say low tuned ported box low pass set at 55hrz or so.

thats what iam running and metal never sounded so good.

just remember also if dont have good midbass you will be lacking. alot of the punch you get from rock/metal are midbass feqs.

 

[T9X 10+ year member]

What I would do -

- Build an enclosure for the CVRs tuned ~30hz

- Cross them over at about 55hz as said above

- Purchase either a better component set or a 6"-8" midbass woofer and cross it over at 55hz to cover the higher subfrequencies

 

[phildapimp89 10+ year member]

Ok so use ur ported box. When you go on your binge, seal off the box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Search around for ways to seal it off easily(so that you can unseal it later)

*Edit* Now that I think about it, my friend has a 12" Diamond M6 in a sealed enclosure and it can't hit any drum beats at all...(My atlas 15 6cuft ported hits much more accurately/cleanly than his does)

So ya, I'd say you should upgrade ur speakers for good midbass, so then you don't have to change anything except unhook ur sub when you want rock //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[traksta15 10+ year member]

i think most people think that smaller subs are "punchier" because they're lighter, so they have less weight to move.......just my $.02

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

i think most people think that smaller subs are "punchier" because they're lighter, so they have less weight to move.......just my $.02

Yes, that is an arguement used alot. But, the difference in weight between a 12 and a 15 in cone (for example) makes for an inaudible difference when you factor in the power the motor can/does exert on it. Shake your fist with a pebble in it. Now shake it again with a slightly difference sized pebble. Could you feel the difference?

The main difference in 'sound' between different sized subs comes from the changes in the freq response due to the added cone area (more pronounced low end), not from the weight difference.

 

[Warbleed 10+ year member]

i think most people think that smaller subs are "punchier" because they're lighter, so they have less weight to move.......just my $.02

Yes, but their logic is flawed. That is NOT how it works. If we increase Mms, we have a UNIFORM decreases in high frequency efficiency, but that's it. It has no bearing at all on upper end frequency response. INDUCTANCE is what dictates high frequency response. It is simply a myth that the driver with a smaller/lighter diaphragm moves "faster". After all, if it were moving faster, it would HAVE to be producing a different frequency.

I swear, people really need to pull their heads out of their ***** on this one. This is what happens when people believe illogical 3rd hand info and marketing pamphlets without even bothering to ask if it is true.

Even a little research would reveal the fallacy of driver diameter/mms being equated to drivers sounding "fast" or "slow". The chief limiter of high frequency response is inductance, Mms really has little bearing, as does cone diameter, at least in the case of subwoofers, as frequency response will be dictated by Le, not Sd, given that we are primarily dealing with frequencies below 100Hz.

What is usually the culprit of the drums, etc sounding off is that the crossover point is poorly set and/or the levels are poorly matched. Nothing makes a drum beat sound like shit like excessive low frequency output relative to higher frequency output. If you have 110dB of highs and 130dB of bass, that's the first idiotic mistake you need to correct. If you like the music that way, then you don't like SQ, you like bass with music in the background, which doesn't even RESEMBLE the original source material.

Set your crossovers intelligently, and don't be a dumbass and set the bass at a much higher level. The method of setting gains by finding the front stage clipping point and then matching the sub clipping point to that...is downright idiotic. That is a way to just about guarantee that you won't have anything resembling balanced output. You should set by output level, as the sub is nearly always going to make the amp clip at a FAR higher output level than the front stage is capable of, in many cases the subs send the amp into clipping 20dB+ beyond the front stage.

So fix the crossover and level settings first, and remember that you want to choose an alignment based on what you know you like. If you like "punchy" bass, i.e. a peak in the midbass region, then you want a higher Q alignment, probably 0.9-1.1.

 

[kuijo 10+ year member]

Can you feel bass from a good set of components?

 

[kuijo 10+ year member]

no?

 

[the_noob 10+ year member]

Yes, but their logic is flawed. That is NOT how it works. If we increase Mms, we have a UNIFORM decreases in high frequency efficiency, but that's it. It has no bearing at all on upper end frequency response. INDUCTANCE is what dictates high frequency response. It is simply a myth that the driver with a smaller/lighter diaphragm moves "faster". After all, if it were moving faster, it would HAVE to be producing a different frequency.
I swear, people really need to pull their heads out of their ***** on this one. This is what happens when people believe illogical 3rd hand info and marketing pamphlets without even bothering to ask if it is true.

Even a little research would reveal the fallacy of driver diameter/mms being equated to drivers sounding "fast" or "slow". The chief limiter of high frequency response is inductance, Mms really has little bearing, as does cone diameter, at least in the case of subwoofers, as frequency response will be dictated by Le, not Sd, given that we are primarily dealing with frequencies below 100Hz.

What is usually the culprit of the drums, etc sounding off is that the crossover point is poorly set and/or the levels are poorly matched. Nothing makes a drum beat sound like shit like excessive low frequency output relative to higher frequency output. If you have 110dB of highs and 130dB of bass, that's the first idiotic mistake you need to correct. If you like the music that way, then you don't like SQ, you like bass with music in the background, which doesn't even RESEMBLE the original source material.

Set your crossovers intelligently, and don't be a dumbass and set the bass at a much higher level. The method of setting gains by finding the front stage clipping point and then matching the sub clipping point to that...is downright idiotic. That is a way to just about guarantee that you won't have anything resembling balanced output. You should set by output level, as the sub is nearly always going to make the amp clip at a FAR higher output level than the front stage is capable of, in many cases the subs send the amp into clipping 20dB+ beyond the front stage.

So fix the crossover and level settings first, and remember that you want to choose an alignment based on what you know you like. If you like "punchy" bass, i.e. a peak in the midbass region, then you want a higher Q alignment, probably 0.9-1.1.

That's exactly what I was going to say //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif .

 

[SSS 18734 5,000+ posts]

Can you feel bass from a good set of components?

yes. But really you don't want your components playing much bass

 

[WheresTheButta 10+ year member]

hm......

How would it sound if I used a 10" driver as opposed to an 8" driver to cover 60-120 hz?

it's a JL 10w6 recieving 350wrms. (my comps handle anything above 120 hz quite wel)

 

[phildapimp89 10+ year member]

You can't go wrong with a W6.

 

[whiplash 10+ year member]

You can't go wrong with a W6.

He wants to use it as a midwoofer.