Sounds good will do. thanksthe way that you have expressed protecting you lease, fuse that wire. the more protection, the better of you are.
Like I was telling a guy last night when quoting him a time/price on his electrical upgrades a fuse isn't needed but it is nice to know it's there for piece of mind, I went with a straight run for 4yrs and just recently fused it after upgrading the wire I only fused it in the event of a crash and the wire grounding out and causing the battery to short due to the new wire being more exposed then the old 4g. as for how much power you can pull you really just need to keep an eye on your voltage while playing at high levels and the better the amp the more power it will produce off less current.That sounds like what I plan to do. Do I have to buy another fuse hold + fuse? What's the best way to do this? I visited the forum for my car and it seems like no one used a fuse between the alternator and battery. Ultimately, with a 120amp alternator and stock battery, is there a certain RMS wattage at which I shouldn't run the amp? 1400 RMS?
I would really much rather pay for someone to do my BIG 3 properly, than trying to experiment with it myself. I can definitely run the 0ga wire myself, but the Big 3 I'd rather pay someone to do for me. Every shop I've called in my area (New Orleans) said they'll only do if I buy a system there and they install it. WTFFFFLike I was telling a guy last night when quoting him a time/price on his electrical upgrades a fuse isn't needed but it is nice to know it's there for piece of mind, I went with a straight run for 4yrs and just recently fused it after upgrading the wire I only fused it in the event of a crash and the wire grounding out and causing the battery to short due to the new wire being more exposed then the old 4g. as for how much power you can pull you really just need to keep an eye on your voltage while playing at high levels and the better the amp the more power it will produce off less current.
I figured that... I have to buy a dash voltage meter asap... any suggestions on a good one? the stingers are SOOOO bright its rediculous, my buddy has one in his car and its obnoxious.if you can makesure your terminal is on a clean metal to metal surface then you can do your big 3 upgrade your self . if you can make sure your wires are kept away from moving parts you can do your big 3 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I would do 80hz or 100hz on the hu, and the same on the amp for that... Also Big 3 is easy to do.. just make sure to hook the grounds up lastOkaaaayy! Installed my 0ga wire today. The difference in sound isn't huge, but its definitely noticeable. Working on getting the Big 3 done sometime this week (I wish KnuKonceptz sent me more 0ga wire with the wiring kit, instead of a bunch of useless 4ga wire).
Also: I set my head unit's crossover for the sub all the way down to 63hz and HOLY **** what a difference. I tried 50hz but it was missing something, I couldn't quite put my finger on it. I think these HDC312 were meant to be crossed over as low as possible. Thanks for the help guys!
I had it at 80, 100, and 125. 63hz seemed to be louder, punchier, and less distorted. Could I be hurting the sub/amp with a 63hz setting?I would do 80hz or 100hz on the hu, and the same on the amp for that... Also Big 3 is easy to do.. just make sure to hook the grounds up last
eh... my HU is at 120hz... amp is at 120hz... no sub sonic on... been the best for me so far... I don't think it would hurt anything ... someoen else with more knowledge on this can chime inI had it at 80, 100, and 125. 63hz seemed to be louder, punchier, and less distorted. Could I be hurting the sub/amp with a 63hz setting?
I was told by people on this forum to set the crossover on the head unit OR the amp, not both. They said that both creates dB slopes that are unequal and kills certain frequencies completely. I have it at 63 on the headunit and all the way open (200hz) on the amp. When I set the LPF with the amp, I got all sorts of weird spikes and dips in my frequency range.
Is having no subsonic filter in a ported box bad? I thought it was...eh... my HU is at 120hz... amp is at 120hz... no sub sonic on... been the best for me so far... I don't think it would hurt anything ... someoen else with more knowledge on this can chime in
I don't know if I mentioned this before or not, but there are some really nice big three kits being made by ramdesigns in the wiring classifieds.Okaaaayy! Installed my 0ga wire today. The difference in sound isn't huge, but its definitely noticeable. Working on getting the Big 3 done sometime this week (I wish KnuKonceptz sent me more 0ga wire with the wiring kit, instead of a bunch of useless 4ga wire).
Also: I set my head unit's crossover for the sub all the way down to 63hz and HOLY **** what a difference. I tried 50hz but it was missing something, I couldn't quite put my finger on it. I think these HDC312 were meant to be crossed over as low as possible. Thanks for the help guys!