RMS help

In some reviews on fi's site, one guy says he runs two of them at 5k, so I could run one at 2500, yeah? I can't find many aq2200's, only one or two and I'd like to buy from amazon or new.
Hfi2000d sounds pretty good. I don't quite understand their Amazon though. Is it 2000 RMS or 2000 max? And would you guys recommend it?
The AQ you can get from the retailer site theyre the same price everywhere. I want one but im a little short on money to purchase an almost $500 amp but the ppi is PERFECT for my budget since it is only $200 on sonic, then i have an option of buying the hifonics brutus elite 2100 or 2500 for fairly cheap so i might go with one of those. Put into consideration though that they are they elite edition which is a bit more solid amp or so ive been told by many. Point being Fi under rates their subs alot and youd be fine pushing 1500rms all day!

 
Just buy right from SoundQubes website
https://www.soundqubed.com/Q1-2200D_p_31.html

What kind of vehicle do you have? An 18 needs a pretty big box. At least 5 or 6 cubes, so if your thinking 2 then you'll need 10-12, which is a massive box
I have a 2007 Monte Carlo. 15 and some change trunk space( I'm willing to let the back seats down for extra if needed). If I went with the q1-2200 I'd be a bit over my budget. I hope to sell my 12's for 400 w/ amp, which would make it possible to get the q1 and the bl18, but I would be without spending money for a few weeks(after gas costs).

 
So you think I could put (like c1500martin said) aq2200 or a ppi bk1800 on that bl18 and use it as a daily driver? I'd also like to be able to turn it up to show off. Would that be ok? I don't want to have to baby step around it for fear of damage.
Since the general consensus is to sell my 12's, the money I could get from them is about enough for another 18 and amp. Since my friend is making the box, I could probably do a second 18. Worth it or will I even notice the difference between one and two of them?
Your not gonna fit 2 18s in that monte carlo. you need at least 5 cubic feet for each 18 for it to sound good. The box is going to be the most important aspect on how loud you get, how good you sound and how well its gonna handle the power or put that power into sound energy. Not sure How your friend builds boxes, if he's just guestimating, then its not gonna sound good or get loud, If he actually has a software to design a proper box, then yeah go with him.

Your best bet is to stick with the single 18 on a soundqubed 2200.1D ( FIND ONE USED ON CLASSIFIEDS FOR 300 SHIPPED) and put that extra money on electrical upgrades which i have a feeling yours is pretty stock based on your signature. Afterwards put the rest on your mids and highs, Those stock speakers will not keep up with an 18 trust me...

 
for the money, go for the Precision power black ice 1800.1D amp if your trying to save money with boss, or any other junk brand, throw that idea out the window, dont cheap out on the amp. You also need to learn how to properly tune a system once you get your equipment, you cant just rely on the installer to do it for you, you need to know the ins and outs of your own system so if anything goes wrong you know what to do.

 
I have a 2007 Monte Carlo. 15 and some change trunk space( I'm willing to let the back seats down for extra if needed). If I went with the q1-2200 I'd be a bit over my budget. I hope to sell my 12's for 400 w/ amp, which would make it possible to get the q1 and the bl18, but I would be without spending money for a few weeks(after gas costs).
I don't think you realize just how loud you are going to be if you do this right. Going to be a HUGE difference from your JLs. Lol Like jeffdachef said, you will need better mids and highs to keep up with the 18. The BL will drown out the stock speakers

 
exactly what jeffdachef says, for 2 18's you need to REMOVE your back seat and build a box that takes up the rear seat space AND trunk space. go with 1 18 in a good built ported box to specs, and if your truly on a budget go for the ppi. the money you save use it for good true ofc 1/0 cable and build your electrical up with atleast another battery or HO alternator. i was like you at first too thinking i can just drop 300 on a sub and another 300 on an amp and bump like crazy but then i found out the wiring required for that alone is like $120 depending what you get, good 2nd battery $350 also give or take, and the HO alternator another maybe $400. THEN there is having someone build the right enclosure which i got quoted $300. Unless you can build it yourself? That is the right way to go.

 
Hello. I am new to this, so please be gentle on the new guy. I have had subs in my car for a while now, they were a package of a 300 watt Alpine amp and 2 JL 12's. The RMS on the amp is 300(bridged) and the RMS on the subs is 600(total). Each is running at half power, but that isn't where my question is. That is back story.
My question relates to my upgrade I plan on doing in a few weeks(when the paycheck comes in). I plan on adding Fi's BL18 to my system. I have a friend building the box, but I need an amp that can power it without breaking my wallet. My manager, who used to be really into car audio(until he got too old and it gave him headaches) recommends getting a 1,000 watt amplifier so the sub doesn't get damaged. It is 1,500 RMS and was wondering exactly how this all plays together. I came to ask you guys what you would recommend. I am having a hard time finding a 1,00 watt RMS amp that isn't pretty expensive. The cheapest I've found is the Boss cx2000m, which does seem to be pretty good.

Thanks for the help! I'm new to this amount of variables. On my current stuff it was all together before( the subs are in a box called a basswedge) and the amp was with them before, so there were no worries about RMS and wattage at all.

Thanks again!
Well to start off I want you to understand a diff between peak and rms. Boss amps say 2000 watts. In reality Your only gonna get about maybe 600 rms if that and its gonna be dirty and that is that fast track to blowing your woofer. #2 If a speaker is rated at 1500 rms then when you give it less power say 1000 rms your chances of not blowing it are not better like your buddy stated. On low power your chances of blowing a speaker are way greater. The science behind it is the power going to the speaker to move the coil and produce sound also is directly related to cooling the speaker. If the speaker doesn't have the power to move correctly the way the suspension was designed that coil is gonna burn up. You will end up with a brown coil. Now you know your gonna be squeezing every watt out of that amp cause ur already under powering it and that adds even more heat from ****** signals coming from the amp. Its called clipping. Good amp companies will not tell you the amps peak power. They state the truth and only but the truth and you need to find those companies and stick with those company's.

 
Well to start off I want you to understand a diff between peak and rms. Boss amps say 2000 watts. In reality Your only gonna get about maybe 600 rms if that and its gonna be dirty and that is that fast track to blowing your woofer. #2 If a speaker is rated at 1500 rms then when you give it less power say 1000 rms your chances of not blowing it are not better like your buddy stated. On low power your chances of blowing a speaker are way greater. The science behind it is the power going to the speaker to move the coil and produce sound also is directly related to cooling the speaker. If the speaker doesn't have the power to move correctly the way the suspension was designed that coil is gonna burn up. You will end up with a brown coil. Now you know your gonna be squeezing every watt out of that amp cause ur already under powering it and that adds even more heat from ****** signals coming from the amp. Its called clipping. Good amp companies will not tell you the amps peak power. They state the truth and only but the truth and you need to find those companies and stick with those company's.
Just to clear a few misnomers up... if a Boss amplifier only produces 600 of 2000 claimed watts, that does not mean the power will be "dirty". If the gain is set properly and the source signal is clean, then the signal the amp produces will also be clean. I just won't be as much power as Boss claims. In fact, you could take that board, repackage it as another brand and claim it to be a 300 watt amp and suddenly, it would be called a powerhouse of an under rated amp. It's true that Boss uses lower quality components on their amplifiers but the same can be said for Precision Power. After all, they aren't magically able to source high quality semi conductors at a 3rd the cost other manufacturers have to pay. They use the same quality semiconductors Boss uses... they just don't over rate their amps.

Regarding underpowering a speaker, it is not unsafe to under power a speaker. If it were, every time someone listened to their audio system at less than full volume, they would be doing damage to their speakers. If a speaker is honestly rated at 1000 watts that means the speaker can dissipate the heat generated by a 1000 watt sine wave indefinitely. Moreover, it can also dissipate the heat generated by any signal below that power level indefinitely as well... so long as the signal is a frequency that's safe for the driver.

OP, keeping the 12s in your system will not produce any appreciable amount of extra volume for you, especially considering the additional drain it will have on your electrical system. Also, if you aren't prepared to do electrical upgrades, I would recommend staying at or below 1500 watts. Not because the sub can't handle it, but because your electrical system can't. If you don't, at the very least, upgrade your power wiring and do a big 3 upgrade, you'll likely end up with headlight dimming and you will put an excessive load on your alternator, which will cause it to fail sooner than later.

That said, the sub you're looking at can take double it's rate power safely and probably even more than that in the right hands, so don't worry about it. And if you do sell your other equipment, I would strongly recommend putting that money into electrical upgrades rather than more subs /amps. Your electrical system is the foundation of your entire audio system and whatever its limitations are is what the system's limitations will be. To put it simply, you could install the best quality 7K amp money can buy and on factory electrical, you'd be lucky to get 2000 watts of clean power from the amp.

 
Just to clear a few misnomers up... if a Boss amplifier only produces 600 of 2000 claimed watts, that does not mean the power will be "dirty". If the gain is set properly and the source signal is clean, then the signal the amp produces will also be clean. I just won't be as much power as Boss claims. In fact, you could take that board, repackage it as another brand and claim it to be a 300 watt amp and suddenly, it would be called a powerhouse of an under rated amp. It's true that Boss uses lower quality components on their amplifiers but the same can be said for Precision Power. After all, they aren't magically able to source high quality semi conductors at a 3rd the cost other manufacturers have to pay. They use the same quality semiconductors Boss uses... they just don't over rate their amps.
Regarding underpowering a speaker, it is not unsafe to under power a speaker. If it were, every time someone listened to their audio system at less than full volume, they would be doing damage to their speakers. If a speaker is honestly rated at 1000 watts that means the speaker can dissipate the heat generated by a 1000 watt sine wave indefinitely. Moreover, it can also dissipate the heat generated by any signal below that power level indefinitely as well... so long as the signal is a frequency that's safe for the driver.

OP, keeping the 12s in your system will not produce any appreciable amount of extra volume for you, especially considering the additional drain it will have on your electrical system. Also, if you aren't prepared to do electrical upgrades, I would recommend staying at or below 1500 watts. Not because the sub can't handle it, but because your electrical system can't. If you don't, at the very least, upgrade your power wiring and do a big 3 upgrade, you'll likely end up with headlight dimming and you will put an excessive load on your alternator, which will cause it to fail sooner than later.

That said, the sub you're looking at can take double it's rate power safely and probably even more than that in the right hands, so don't worry about it. And if you do sell your other equipment, I would strongly recommend putting that money into electrical upgrades rather than more subs /amps. Your electrical system is the foundation of your entire audio system and whatever its limitations are is what the system's limitations will be. To put it simply, you could install the best quality 7K amp money can buy and on factory electrical, you'd be lucky to get 2000 watts of clean power from the amp.
Maybe you can get clean power out of a boss 2000 but you know **** well that 95% of people using boss amps are using them like 2000 watt amps. So for the majority and op is in that category. They are gonna see a dirty 600 watts. So the info I stated is true for more people that your point. Still completely true. And yes u won't blow a woofer on lower power than recommended but you know once again that people clip there amps. People buy an amp and try and get every watt out of it. So yes if you buy a amp that can only half power your speaker. That isn't a guaranteed ticket that says you will not blow your sub. You can blow a sub easier with a smaller than recommended amp easier than you can blow a sub with a amp that is too much power. More power if its clean will be less stress on the coil and soft parts than a amp that is less power than recommended and a clipped signal. Everything your saying is true but what I stated is what happens in the real world.

 
Maybe you can get clean power out of a boss 2000 but you know **** well that 95% of people using boss amps are using them like 2000 watt amps. So for the majority and op is in that category. They are gonna see a dirty 600 watts. So the info I stated is true for more people that your point. Still completely true. And yes u won't blow a woofer on lower power than recommended but you know once again that people clip there amps. People buy an amp and try and get every watt out of it. So yes if you buy a amp that can only half power your speaker. That isn't a guaranteed ticket that says you will not blow your sub. You can blow a sub easier with a smaller than recommended amp easier than you can blow a sub with a amp that is too much power. More power if its clean will be less stress on the coil and soft parts than a amp that is less power than recommended and a clipped signal. Everything your saying is true but what I stated is what happens in the real world.
What 95% of people do has nothing to do with what's true. But let's consider that 95% of people do indeed clip their subs. You went on to say that it's easier to blow a sub by under powering it than over powering it. However, keeping in mind your caveat, that is not true. If we're talking about clipped signals then it's most definitely easier to blow a sub with an overpowered signal than an under powered signal.

Also, most people do not use their Boss amps like 2000 watt amps. Two thousand watt amps are meant to be used with sufficient electrical, which includes 1/0 power wiring and second batteries. Who does that with a Boss amp? Ninety five percent of people?

 
What 95% of people do has nothing to do with what's true. But let's consider that 95% of people do indeed clip their subs. You went on to say that it's easier to blow a sub by under powering it than over powering it. However, keeping in mind your caveat, that is not true. If we're talking about clipped signals then it's most definitely easier to blow a sub with an overpowered signal than an under powered signal.
Also, most people do not use their Boss amps like 2000 watt amps. Two thousand watt amps are meant to be used with sufficient electrical, which includes 1/0 power wiring and second batteries. Who does that with a Boss amp? Ninety five percent of people?
Lol no if you have an amp capable of more than your subs can handle then in the overpowering case no it wouldnt be clipping. But under powering with a smaller amp yes unless you know when to back off like obviously you seem like you do. The 95% of people dont back off. They buy the 2000 boss amp and turn it all the way up. And yes they will get clipping. Anyone who knows how to get clean power from a boss wouldnt be buying a boss lol. And you pointed out that if i bought a 2000 watt boss amp and i went out and bought a singer alt and a few group 31 agms you think im gonna see 2000 watts from the boss. I think not even after i just did everything the right way with my electrical. So what someone does with there electrical with a boss 2000 watt amp is irrelevant.

 
What 95% of people do has nothing to do with what's true. But let's consider that 95% of people do indeed clip their subs. You went on to say that it's easier to blow a sub by under powering it than over powering it. However, keeping in mind your caveat, that is not true. If we're talking about clipped signals then it's most definitely easier to blow a sub with an overpowered signal than an under powered signal.
Also, most people do not use their Boss amps like 2000 watt amps. Two thousand watt amps are meant to be used with sufficient electrical, which includes 1/0 power wiring and second batteries. Who does that with a Boss amp? Ninety five percent of people?
" More power if its clean will be less stress on the coil and soft parts than a amp that is less power than recommended and a clipped signal." My exact words how did you mistake that for me saying were talking about overpowered clipped signals. i say right there Clean...

 
" More power if its clean will be less stress on the coil and soft parts than a amp that is less power than recommended and a clipped signal." My exact words how did you mistake that for me saying were talking about overpowered clipped signals. i say right there Clean...
Ah but you don't get to deny me the discussion of clean signals and then introduce caveats to prop up your argument. ;-)

It's simple... Boss amps aren't by default "dirty" and it doesn't matter what most people do. Most people don't know how to set their gain and that includes a plurality of professionals and enthusiasts. So what. Likewise, it is easier to damage a driver with high power than low power. Period.

If's don't change facts.

 
Well to start off I want you to understand a diff between peak and rms. Boss amps say 2000 watts. In reality Your only gonna get about maybe 600 rms if that and its gonna be dirty and that is that fast track to blowing your woofer. #2 If a speaker is rated at 1500 rms then when you give it less power say 1000 rms your chances of not blowing it are not better like your buddy stated. On low power your chances of blowing a speaker are way greater. The science behind it is the power going to the speaker to move the coil and produce sound also is directly related to cooling the speaker. If the speaker doesn't have the power to move correctly the way the suspension was designed that coil is gonna burn up. You will end up with a brown coil. Now you know your gonna be squeezing every watt out of that amp cause ur already under powering it and that adds even more heat from ****** signals coming from the amp. Its called clipping. Good amp companies will not tell you the amps peak power. They state the truth and only but the truth and you need to find those companies and stick with those company's.
Sorry for delay on reply. Was busy with work and other faggotry. I already knew/know the difference between rms and peak... One website I went to claimed 2k as the boss' RMS. It's Amazon says otherwise now that I actually look. And please never assume I'd use a 600 watt amp as a 2k. I may be new, but I pick up quick and know when something doesn't sound right. I was there every step of the way when my cousin destroyed his 15's. He blew them to hell, had a **** box. I had little intention of buying the boss in the first place, was providing it as a reference point/ place to go from.[End mini-rant]

My local friend is going to buy my 12's and amp for 400. This leaves my current "budget"(which I've never been good about sticking to) at around $800. Assuming I go with the 2200(new at $430), that leaves $370 for sub and other upgrades. Another $330(base price. Do I need the extra cooling options? I will be using it as a daily driver. If so which ones?) for the sub leaves $40 for other stuff. I am getting paid shortly which will bump it to at least $200(****** hours recently)

Any help you could provide in finding a used 2200 would be awesome. I am pretty terrible at browsing the classifieds here. If I get that for 300 shipped, I would then have enough for an alt and hopefully workable wiring until another check/ money falls from the sky. Also any suggestions on where to buy an alt would be cool. Is that something I go to a local auto shop for?

I am willing to buy things in sets, like doing the electrical stuff first, then waiting a month and buying the rest. Or maybe electrical and sub, then next month do amp and whatever else.

 
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Sorry for delay on reply. Was busy with work and other faggotry. I already knew/know the difference between rms and peak... One website I went to claimed 2k as the boss' RMS. It's Amazon says otherwise now that I actually look. And please never assume I'd use a 600 watt amp as a 2k. I may be new, but I pick up quick and know when something doesn't sound right. I was there every step of the way when my cousin destroyed his 15's. He blew them to hell, had a **** box. I had little intention of buying the boss in the first place, was providing it as a reference point/ place to go from.[End mini-rant]
My local friend is going to buy my 12's and amp for 400. This leaves my current "budget"(which I've never been good about sticking to) at around $800. Assuming I go with the 2200(new at $430), that leaves $370 for sub and other upgrades. Another $330(base price. Do I need the extra cooling options? I will be using it as a daily driver. If so which ones?) for the sub leaves $40 for other stuff. I am getting paid shortly which will bump it to at least $200(****** hours recently)

Any help you could provide in finding a used 2200 would be awesome. I am pretty terrible at browsing the classifieds here. If I get that for 300 shipped, I would then have enough for an alt and hopefully workable wiring until another check/ money falls from the sky. Also any suggestions on where to buy an alt would be cool. Is that something I go to a local auto shop for?

I am willing to buy things in sets, like doing the electrical stuff first, then waiting a month and buying the rest. Or maybe electrical and sub, then next month do amp and whatever else.
A budget of $800 is going to be hard to work with.

I would recommend the PPI BK1800.1 to save money. You're not going to be able to tell the difference between 1800 and 2200 watts after impedance rise and other factors come into play.

What size is your stock alt? If it's small, I recommend getting a high output alt from Mechman, once again because they are usually the cheapest without going with low quality. No matter what you do, you need to replace the battery under your hood with an AGM battery. Duracell AGMs from Sam's are pretty affordable.

And please make sure the guy knows what he's doing when he designs and builds the box or all your money on equipment was wasted...

 
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