Questions on my first setup.

[devdog 10+ year member]

Car audio newbie here, I did some research on subwoofers and figured out what matches up with what and what i should look for and all that jazz. I drive a 2001 Mustang Coupe and was looking to put some subwoofers in the trunk. I have limited trunk height due to my rear deck. I also put myself on a budget of $400 for everything I need to buy(2 subs, amp, box, wires). I Was shopping around and found a decent deal, 2 kicker CVR 10's, a Kenwood KAC 9105D amp, and wires for around $340. (If anyone has any better options in my price range please list them.) I am going to have to make a custom box due to the limited height. I was thinking sealed(maybe not if ported is better) but i have some questions.

1. How much air space should i allow for each sub? The recommended is .8 to 3 cubic ft, but that's a pretty big range.

2. Should there be a divider in the middle of the box separating the two subs?

3. If there is a divider in the middle, how do i wire the two subs together and where do i put the terminal cup thing(if i even need one?)

4. Should I buy 4 ohm subs and wire them down to 1 ohm? or should i buy 2 ohm subs and wire them to 2 ohms?(which is better for the amp/sound quality/loudness?)

I'd be very appreciative to anyone who answers my questions.

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[subzero 5,000+ posts]

look in the classified adds here. and post and add for a box builder in the enclosure section.

Not many people like kicker stuff so prepare to get flamed.

Your looking at $50 wire, $150 amp, $150 subs. and $50 for a box if you do it yourself.

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/521385-fs-audiopipe-1500d.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/521302-skar-vvx-12d4-2.html

 

[UnderFire 10+ year member]

1. I don't think that airspace is a big issue on the CVR's, I've seen some in tiny sealed boxes, I've even seen one 10 in a huge obcon box with dual ports that could have been 3cu. ft. or more.

2. I always build seperate chambers, but I'm sure there are people who have tried both ways that will be able to help you.

3. a terminal cup isn't needed, you can just drill a hole in the side, but make sure to seal it up, and the same with the divider, just drill a hole and seal it well.

4. Either one will work, it depends on the amplifier, ohms is the measure of electrical resistance, and the lower the number gets, the more power you draw from the amp, but some amps only go down to 2 ohms, so be careful.

When you're looking at a spec sheet on an amp you'll see something like this.

450W RMS x1 @ 4Ohms

That tells you that if you have your wiring set-up to 4 ohms, the amplifier will max out at 450W rms, and the number usually doubles at 2 ohms, and at 1 ohm, it's around triple the 4 ohm output.

 

[devdog 10+ year member]

Thanks a lot. That kenwood amp says it puts out 900w rms @ 2 ohms and is also stable at one ohm. I was just curious if the 4 ohm set up was better or worse than the 2 ohm sub setup. If there's not much of a difference then I'll probably buy the 2 ohm subs to make it easier on the amp and hopefully it'll last longer.

 

[Lowflyin 10+ year member]

I had that sub on 2 Cvr 12s. It did well but draws a lot of power for what it puts out

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Only issue I have seen and found out about installing subs in the trunk of mustangs is the opening to the trunk is very very very small. Might have to build the box inside the trunk. Go measure the opening of your trunk and you will see 2 12's in a proper ported box 2-3cf will not fit threw the opening.

 

[devdog 10+ year member]

I plan on building the box to be 11 1/2" high, just enough to slide it in through the back seat. I can get the rest of my air space through the width and length.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Tru it is just the drop tops that have the seats that do not fold down.