Possible Minivan -- yes, MINIVAN install. Need help.

[TheFactor]

A little off topic will never hurt anyone ; )

3dB?Noticeable. Far from a huge increase in output.

How about something relating to the topic?

Has anyone wired components in the door of a dodge/chrysler?

It doesn't look like it's going to be easy getting 12-14 awg speaker wire through the connectors in the door jamb.

 

[TheFactor]

Also "off topic" But small increases on paper can make a big difference compared to what you hear and feel .

 

[k3n12ock 10+ year member]

Just wall it like my buddy's minivan.

 

[TheFactor]

^^Nice !!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 

[TheFactor]

High Quality Cheap, Affordable Hearing Aids

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

A little off topic will never hurt anyone ; )

3dB?Noticeable. Far from a huge increase in output.

How about something relating to the topic?

Has anyone wired components in the door of a dodge/chrysler?

It doesn't look like it's going to be easy getting 12-14 awg speaker wire through the connectors in the door jamb.

I have 4 runs of 12g thru the doors on my '97 Voyager, but I drilled new holes and did grommets. MUCH easier....

 

[dragon.breath 10+ year member]

A little off topic as far as the audio goes; those vans have well known transmission problems. the first thing you need to do with the van is get the transmission serviced. Try to find a shop with a transmission flush machine and have it flushed. And make sure that a good brand of trans fluid is used when it's changed. No matter what the manual calls for, have it serviced every 15 to 20k.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

A little off topic as far as the audio goes; those vans have well known transmission problems. the first thing you need to do with the van is get the transmission serviced. Try to find a shop with a transmission flush machine and have it flushed. And make sure that a good brand of trans fluid is used when it's changed. No matter what the manual calls for, have it serviced every 15 to 20k.

The van got regular and thorough maintenance.

Trans got fluid changed about a month before we bought it -- probably dealership.

It is as mechanically sound as a used 127k vehicle can be.

The last suggested maintenance item was PS flush -- I'll do that myself probably at 1st oil change.

Prob needs some front end stuff - there are some creaks and noises that I would like to improve.

From what I've read sway bar bushings on these wear easy and are noisier than most cars.

In my experience - it is a safe bet that an automatic transmission WILL fail at some point. USUALLY

We who choose to drive po' folks cars are willing to take that risk and eat the ~$2k rebuild if it comes to that.

But back to the audio -- I'm seriously considering a fiberglass sub enclosure. I did one in a trunk years ago. Wasn't much fun, but I did like the results. I think this one would be quite a bit smaller and less time consuming.

Not sure about how/where I want to mount my amps. If the sub enclosure goes well I may consider something with fiberglass for those as well.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I have 4 runs of 12g thru the doors on my '97 Voyager, but I drilled new holes and did grommets. MUCH easier....

That might be what I end up doing.

I'd probably just do 12 ga, and figure out a way to mount the x/o in the door. That's how I did it with my last two cars and it worked well. I was able to wire through the molex on those though.

 

[mrpep]

Flushing a trans is not recommended by most mechanics. Do the typical 4 quarts drain and fill. Flushes have been known to create more problems .

 

[TheFactor]

So true Dragon Breath those dodge /Chrysler mini vans are known for premature transmission failure .

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I think I'm going to have to take my doors off to do the door speaker wiring.

There's just no room to work.

There are a couple grommets (one on the door, one on the door frame) I think I can get some 12 awg through, but it looks impossible w/o taking the door off.

I guess I'll see if I can build a simple frame out of some wood scraps I have laying around that will basically hold the door in place but allow me to move it away from the frame a few inches so I can install some split loom and get some wire through.

I considered using the existing wires -- just splicing in somewhere near the kick panel, but those wires are signal only and look to be MAYBE 18 awg, possibly smaller. I'm running a bridged 4 channel capable of over 250x2 for my components and I don't want to bottleneck it through 2' of 18 awg. Besides -- other than building something to support the door while it's off -- I don't think taking the doors off and running my own wires will be much (any?) more difficult/time consuming.

Looking at some dimensions for the sub box as well. I think the fiberglass idea is going to happen. Worst case scenario -- it will be a colossal waste of time -- something I specialize in //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

just drill new holes with a step bit and angle drill, no need to pull the doors off.

I know all about the weak trans in these things, I'm on my 2nd rebuild in 4 years, but mine does weigh around 7k....

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Got driver's side door wired. Had to unbolt the pkg brake and disconnect the cable under the van for room to work.

I was able to use the wiring boot going into the door -- but that boot doesn't connect to the door frame, it just ends half way between the door and the frame/jamb. The main wiring grommet is much higher and forward, it might even feed into the engine compartment so it really wasn't an option.

Luckily, there's an unused plug/grommet below the hinges -- behind it I found a cavity full of expanding foam.

I needed to route the wire about a foot, going almost straight upward through this foam.

I used a screwdriver to create a path then taped my spkr wire to a much more stiff wire to feed it through.

It was a slow process, but I eventually got it done.

I also mounted the crossover.

Passenger's side should go much better.

 

[mrpep]

I've put my wires through the rubber tube using a clothes hanger. Put the hanger through then tape your wire and pull carefully. Worked for me.

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