Possible Minivan -- yes, MINIVAN install. Need help.

[TheFactor]

A little off topic will never hurt anyone ; )

3dB?Noticeable. Far from a huge increase in output.

How about something relating to the topic?

Has anyone wired components in the door of a dodge/chrysler?

It doesn't look like it's going to be easy getting 12-14 awg speaker wire through the connectors in the door jamb.

 

[TheFactor]

Also "off topic" But small increases on paper can make a big difference compared to what you hear and feel .

 

[k3n12ock 10+ year member]

Just wall it like my buddy's minivan.

 

[TheFactor]

^^Nice !!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 

[TheFactor]

High Quality Cheap, Affordable Hearing Aids

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

A little off topic will never hurt anyone ; )

3dB?Noticeable. Far from a huge increase in output.

How about something relating to the topic?

Has anyone wired components in the door of a dodge/chrysler?

It doesn't look like it's going to be easy getting 12-14 awg speaker wire through the connectors in the door jamb.

I have 4 runs of 12g thru the doors on my '97 Voyager, but I drilled new holes and did grommets. MUCH easier....

 

[dragon.breath 10+ year member]

A little off topic as far as the audio goes; those vans have well known transmission problems. the first thing you need to do with the van is get the transmission serviced. Try to find a shop with a transmission flush machine and have it flushed. And make sure that a good brand of ***** fluid is used when it's changed. No matter what the manual calls for, have it serviced every 15 to 20k.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

A little off topic as far as the audio goes; those vans have well known transmission problems. the first thing you need to do with the van is get the transmission serviced. Try to find a shop with a transmission flush machine and have it flushed. And make sure that a good brand of ***** fluid is used when it's changed. No matter what the manual calls for, have it serviced every 15 to 20k.

The van got regular and thorough maintenance.

***** got fluid changed about a month before we bought it -- probably dealership.

It is as mechanically sound as a used 127k vehicle can be.

The last suggested maintenance item was PS flush -- I'll do that myself probably at 1st oil change.

Prob needs some front end stuff - there are some creaks and noises that I would like to improve.

From what I've read sway bar bushings on these wear easy and are noisier than most cars.

In my experience - it is a safe bet that an automatic transmission WILL fail at some point. USUALLY

We who choose to drive po' folks cars are willing to take that risk and eat the ~$2k rebuild if it comes to that.

But back to the audio -- I'm seriously considering a fiberglass sub enclosure. I did one in a trunk years ago. Wasn't much fun, but I did like the results. I think this one would be quite a bit smaller and less time consuming.

Not sure about how/where I want to mount my amps. If the sub enclosure goes well I may consider something with fiberglass for those as well.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I have 4 runs of 12g thru the doors on my '97 Voyager, but I drilled new holes and did grommets. MUCH easier....

That might be what I end up doing.

I'd probably just do 12 ga, and figure out a way to mount the x/o in the door. That's how I did it with my last two cars and it worked well. I was able to wire through the molex on those though.

 

[mrpep]

Flushing a ***** is not recommended by most mechanics. Do the typical 4 quarts drain and fill. Flushes have been known to create more problems .

 

[TheFactor]

So true Dragon Breath those dodge /Chrysler mini vans are known for premature transmission failure .

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I think I'm going to have to take my doors off to do the door speaker wiring.

There's just no room to work.

There are a couple grommets (one on the door, one on the door frame) I think I can get some 12 awg through, but it looks impossible w/o taking the door off.

I guess I'll see if I can build a simple frame out of some wood scraps I have laying around that will basically hold the door in place but allow me to move it away from the frame a few inches so I can install some split loom and get some wire through.

I considered using the existing wires -- just splicing in somewhere near the kick panel, but those wires are signal only and look to be MAYBE 18 awg, possibly smaller. I'm running a bridged 4 channel capable of over 250x2 for my components and I don't want to bottleneck it through 2' of 18 awg. Besides -- other than building something to support the door while it's off -- I don't think taking the doors off and running my own wires will be much (any?) more difficult/time consuming.

Looking at some dimensions for the sub box as well. I think the fiberglass idea is going to happen. Worst case scenario -- it will be a colossal waste of time -- something I specialize in //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

just drill new holes with a step bit and angle drill, no need to pull the doors off.

I know all about the weak ***** in these things, I'm on my 2nd rebuild in 4 years, but mine does weigh around 7k....

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Got driver's side door wired. Had to unbolt the pkg brake and disconnect the cable under the van for room to work.

I was able to use the wiring boot going into the door -- but that boot doesn't connect to the door frame, it just ends half way between the door and the frame/jamb. The main wiring grommet is much higher and forward, it might even feed into the engine compartment so it really wasn't an option.

Luckily, there's an unused plug/grommet below the hinges -- behind it I found a cavity full of expanding foam.

I needed to route the wire about a foot, going almost straight upward through this foam.

I used a screwdriver to create a path then taped my spkr wire to a much more stiff wire to feed it through.

It was a slow process, but I eventually got it done.

I also mounted the crossover.

Passenger's side should go much better.

 

[mrpep]

I've put my wires through the rubber tube using a clothes hanger. Put the hanger through then tape your wire and pull carefully. Worked for me.

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