Poll: Front stage opinions

[West]

@West where do you cross your rears at? Bandpass right?

Bandpass from 8khz-60hz

8k-200 would be another one to try

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Bandpass from 8khz-60hz8k-200 would be another one to try

I would think something more like 2k-60Hz would work out better with keeping the stage from pulling to the rear.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

BTW, OP, get the Levi. Should be the last amp for your comps you'll ever need. That or a Zuki. When I'm ready for it, I'll be going with one of those. Have to find the right HU/processor first, though.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Bandpass from 8khz-60hz8k-200 would be another one to try

That seems high, no? I would definitely need a seperate crossover for that high.

BTW, OP, get the Levi. Should be the last amp for your comps you'll ever need. That or a Zuki. When I'm ready for it, I'll be going with one of those. Have to find the right HU/processor first, though.

Dude, trust me, I want that Zed really bad. Have to square away my sub stage first, not to mention get a new vehicle lol.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

That seems high, no? I would definitely need a seperate crossover for that high.


Dude, trust me, I want that Zed really bad. Have to square away my sub stage first, not to mention get a new vehicle lol.

Lol, hear you on that. I'm borrowing an active-capable HU for a bit so I can get the feel of that. Might start me from square one if it takes off like I think it will, but I'm learning every day. I was thinking of the Levi, too, until I learned about how happy people were after switching from the Levi to the Zuki Eleets Hybrid 5-channel. Considering it's cheaper and seems to be getting really favorable reviews (not to mention lots of power on tap), I'd be willing to go from a 6-channel to a 5 if it lives up to the hype.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

TL;DR

Best to have the active controls up front as you WILL find yourself tweaking everyday for a long time to come. Better to be able to change there and listen than hop in the back and hop back up front for a listen.

Rear fill has way more benefits than a lot of people like to make it seem. Rear fill completes an SQ system and, when implemented properly will sound better at the driver's seat than to the rear passengers.

However, if you're running active off the 80PRS with subs, you will not have extra preouts for rear fill. The only way to do rear fill would be to somehow split the signal from your mids to an amp for the rears but to get the full effect of real rear fill, you would need to integrate a mini DSP with the rear fill plug in that will properly process the rear signal and also allow you to delay them beyond the Haas effect, thus creating a larger listening space.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Lol, hear you on that. I'm borrowing an active-capable HU for a bit so I can get the feel of that. Might start me from square one if it takes off like I think it will, but I'm learning every day. I was thinking of the Levi, too, until I learned about how happy people were after switching from the Levi to the Zuki Eleets Hybrid 5-channel. Considering it's cheaper and seems to be getting really favorable reviews (not to mention lots of power on tap), I'd be willing to go from a 6-channel to a 5 if it lives up to the hype.

The whole point of upgrading to the Levi for me would be to have 6 channels. Could always do a 4+2 channel, but the Zed is so damn sexy.

TL;DR
Best to have the active controls up front as you WILL find yourself tweaking everyday for a long time to come. Better to be able to change there and listen than hop in the back and hop back up front for a listen.

Rear fill has way more benefits than a lot of people like to make it seem. Rear fill completes an SQ system and, when implemented properly will sound better at the driver's seat than to the rear passengers.

However, if you're running active off the 80PRS with subs, you will not have extra preouts for rear fill. The only way to do rear fill would be to somehow split the signal from your mids to an amp for the rears but to get the full effect of real rear fill, you would need to integrate a mini DSP with the rear fill plug in that will properly process the rear signal and also allow you to delay them beyond the Haas effect, thus creating a larger listening space.

Good points. So, which would you go with out of my 3 choices? Also, just noticed your location. I like it.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

The whole point of upgrading to the Levi for me would be to have 6 channels. Could always do a 4+2 channel, but the Zed is so damn sexy.


Good points. So, which would you go with out of my 3 choices? Also, just noticed your location. I like it.

Of your 3 choices, I would go with the HU to DC, no rears as of now. That way you control everything from the HU and it costs nothing.

If in the future you decide you would like to add rear fill, you can upgrade to a 4 way HU or external processor or simply add the mini DSP into the mix. But, no need to do that right now as you may be satisfied with just the fronts.

Its always recommended to perfect the front stage before moving to other speakers anyway. Otherwise things just get more complicated with more drivers.

 

[West]

That seems high, no? I would definitely need a seperate crossover for that high.


Dude, trust me, I want that Zed really bad. Have to square away my sub stage first, not to mention get a new vehicle lol.

I am talking about the rear field //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

8khz was where I liked it, I am assuming you have full range 6x9's

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Of your 3 choices, I would go with the HU to DC, no rears as of now. That way you control everything from the HU and it costs nothing.
If in the future you decide you would like to add rear fill, you can upgrade to a 4 way HU or external processor or simply add the mini DSP into the mix. But, no need to do that right now as you may be satisfied with just the fronts.

Its always recommended to perfect the front stage before moving to other speakers anyway. Otherwise things just get more complicated with more drivers.

I think I am going to go that way, no rears. Not getting a DSP now, and I do like having control up front. If I did rears off the HU speaker outs it would be off the mid channel, and I would not have any independent control of their crossover points or slopes or their volume. Would end up being a headache I think. Plus, it costs nothing, which is really the enticing part.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I think I am going to go that way, no rears. Not getting a DSP now, and I do like having control up front. If I did rears off the HU speaker outs it would be off the mid channel, and I would not have any independent control of their crossover points or slopes or their volume. Would end up being a headache I think. Plus, it costs nothing, which is really the enticing part.

You woudn't need to worry too much about their crossover points. Thats why I said use the mids output for the rears. That way the aren't playing too high and drawing the stage back. Volume wise they would just need to be low enough to not be noticeable and take away from the front stage. These are easy quick "set it and forget it" type things.

Once the DSP does the differenced signal and delays them about 20ms behind the fronts, you're pretty much good to go and not much tweaking should be needed.

But, I still say go with just fronts first. Just don't count out the possibility of rear fill even on your setup.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

You woudn't need to worry too much about their crossover points. Thats why I said use the mids output for the rears. That way the aren't playing too high and drawing the stage back. Volume wise they would just need to be low enough to not be noticeable and take away from the front stage. These are easy quick "set it and forget it" type things.
Once the DSP does the differenced signal and delays them about 20ms behind the fronts, you're pretty much good to go and not much tweaking should be needed.

But, I still say go with just fronts first. Just don't count out the possibility of rear fill even on your setup.

But I wouldn't be able to set the volume of them seperately. Well, I guess if they were too loud I could just turn the mid channels down and then turn the gains up on my amp to compensate. Either way I'll have to test before I do that.

I'll probably just end up running my CDT HD-62CF's up front and nothing in the rear for now. Planar tweets look really enticing, but cost money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

But I wouldn't be able to set the volume of them seperately. Well, I guess if they were too loud I could just turn the mid channels down and then turn the gains up on my amp to compensate. Either way I'll have to test before I do that.
I'll probably just end up running my CDT HD-62CF's up front and nothing in the rear for now. Planar tweets look really enticing, but cost money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

The rears will be on a separate amp anyway since your preouts will be taken. Just reduce the rear amp gain

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

The rears will be on a separate amp anyway since your preouts will be taken. Just reduce the rear amp gain

My original intent was to just use the internal amp on the 80PRS.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

My original intent was to just use the internal amp on the 80PRS.

Then, you can't run rears at all if you're gonna go active and even if you stuck with passive fronts, you still couldn't run properly processed rears on that HU. I don't think it even has enough delay.

Only way you would be able to add rears and go active is adding a separate amp for the rears.