PioneerSPL1990 Alero Build Log

i used a GM post adapter that had a bolt in on it, the bolt was kinda short so i got a longer one. i just went out today and bought 3-1"x3/8" coarse thread bolts for my kinetik and the positive stock one up front. i also have an aluminum dual 3/0 setscrew thing bolted on the front positive, i have my alt-battery into it and in one side and i squeezed 2 1/0 run in the other. then i have my vehicle power and small and power (4 ga on ring terminals) just bolted in too.

well said J. even though i prettyied up the trunk today,

pictures up soon.

 
Well after a comment form a friend this morning on my myspace saying "I bet your system is loud but the trunk looks like ****." I decided to redo some wiring. I ended up stripping everything from the trunk. I removed almost 15 feet of 0ga not needed after doubling up grounds and powers. I got 3 layers of bondo on the back board it is very ridged now. Later this week (weather permitting) im going to try tackling the area between the door and box, I have to do this in a way so my car is searchable and I can remove everything w/o visual damage with the car together (parents own the car still)

heres the pictures of my fun 10 hrs outside today.

my back is shot.

starting the tear down. vvv

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the cluster F*UCK of wire in there. vvv

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mounting board out of the trunk. vvv

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the bondo over glass before final sand.vvvv

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the trunk cleaned out. vvv

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anlost 22' of 1/0ga peices.vvv

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amp remounted with fuse.vvv

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Done. vvv

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double ground, and no theres absolutly no rust under the ground block. vvv

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my Pioneer Premier DEX-P1R and Memphis EQ50. vvv

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bud i told ya about some of the comments i got from my van being ugly,then when i beat them by 10+db,people shut their mouths.dont worry about what people say,get it loud first then make it look"decent".you dont get style points in this hobby

 
Battery Number 2 came in this morning, went and picked it up at the New Aduio Pros in gov.

hopefully from book money and a work study check i can put in an order for battery number 3 by the end of the week.

The two Kinetik KR2412's wired up.

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all in the trunk.

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another wiring picture.

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i need to switch the power in to the batteries to the one on the right, and im thinking about running my alt wire all the way to the trunk and removing my isolator to stop the dimming on the front battery, doing it this way would give my system the max charge and put the front battery as the last one to draw off, so hopefully the lights wont dimm as much, the second battery deffinaly helped but I want to be able to keep it in the 14V range for at least 10 seconds. Running the car sits at 14.53V, Off, the front battery drops to 12.65V and the back bank sits at 13.80V (isolated).

 
Pillar Pod voltmeter. also changer the regular back light it had out for 3 red LED's. i don't want to run everything off my deck switched/remote becouse i poped the fuse last time i went to add a changer, and im too lazy and broke to add a repeater relay, so thats why i used a nitro style switch.

im thinking about just bondoing in the pod to my pillar and then painting it back to match the interior.

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great news i started my car this morning and my volt meter jumped to over 15V so i decided to check it a few minutes later with the DMM and shes sitting at 15.07V at the back bank WTF! SWEET!

 
great news i started my car this morning and my volt meter jumped to over 15V so i decided to check it a few minutes later with the DMM and shes sitting at 15.07V at the back bank WTF! SWEET!
That alt must be in great shape.

 
idk its crazy. im thinking the warm weather might help. does it make a difference of my kinetiks were charged in the cold (5-10 degrees) plus my front battery car charge seperate from my kinetiks, its hooked like a cap pretty much, and i was told at auto zone (had it tested) that my charging system was sitting at 14.83V. this was the day after i thought i killed something when all i did was severly drain my battery.

 
yeah i need to and i need some help doing all the crossovers and crap on my deck i can get to everything but everything for subwoofer starts at 50 hz. i reallly really need the auto equilization mic for my deck then i can adjust where the sound hits the the centameter.

 
Here it is finished, this took 7 sessions of bondo, rasping and sanding. Switch is for the red leds in the guage

outside view.

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Patience really does = quality.vvv

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details. vvv

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has some minor flaws but i think it's pretty **** good for my first time doing finish work with bondo.

i also found that using food color to alter each layer of bondo really helps with shapping and knowing how much material you have left to work with before your back to plastic.

 
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PioneerSPL1990

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