passive crossover question

[Jimg]

Car is a 2010 Camero. Getting new speaker wires ran to the doors is more of a project than i am willing to take on.

the factory speaker locations have the 6 1/2 in the lower part of door with a tweeter mounted on the top top of the door

I would rather not buy a set of regular component audio speakers

I would like to use a set of sb acoustics SB17 6 1/2 door speakers and either a set of seas or sb acoustics tweeters.

Since the only speaker wire going into the door will be a single channel wire lead where do you get passive crossovers. Also where do you get passive crossovers that have the frequency cutoff levels to better match a set of seperate speakers

Most of the ones I have seen for sale on amazon and ebay do not state the cut off ranges.

The ones I have seen for sale that do state the ranges are taking the midrange to 4000+ hz for the midrange. I was hoping to get my tweeter a little lower than that.

NVX has a XNET2 crossiver they used for their x series that looks like it would work. Looks like the low crossover point is a 1500hz. It is BI-Ampable, I would assume I could power both the tweeter and woofer input leads by just jumping the power input on the woofer and tweeter side together.

Or should i just not worry about it and just buy a set of name brand component speakers and not go through the trouble of tracking all this down?

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[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

Car is a 2010 Camero. Getting new speaker wires ran to the doors is more of a project than i am willing to take on.

the factory speaker locations have the 6 1/2 in the lower part of door with a tweeter mounted on the top top of the door

I would rather not buy a set of regular component audio speakers

I would like to use a set of sb acoustics SB17 6 1/2 door speakers and either a set of seas or sb acoustics tweeters.

Since the only speaker wire going into the door will be a single channel wire lead where do you get passive crossovers. Also where do you get passive crossovers that have the frequency cutoff levels to better match a set of seperate speakers

Most of the ones I have seen for sale on amazon and ebay do not state the cut off ranges.

The ones I have seen for sale that do state the ranges are taking the midrange to 4000+ hz for the midrange. I was hoping to get my tweeter a little lower than that.

NVX has a XNET2 crossiver they used for their x series that looks like it would work. Looks like the low crossover point is a 1500hz. It is BI-Ampable, I would assume I could power both the tweeter and woofer input leads by just jumping the power input on the woofer and tweeter side together.

Or should i just not worry about it and just buy a set of name brand component speakers and not go through the trouble of tracking all this down?

I myself have bought the exact mids/tweets(sb acoustics) and that exact nvx crossover. My plan was to run active but I wanted to try the passive nvx crossover first. That is the same xover that came with the nvx x series comp set which the mids/tweets were rebadged sb acoustics if I’m correct. Those crossovers are huge and really pack a lot inside them.

 

[Firewalker]

Also if you don't want to run new speaker wire and using an amp then use Stinger/Metra 9 wire wire. It has the remote wire built in. You have an aftermarket head unit right so when you wire that to a wiring harness you only connect the the 9 wire just like you would to the head unit speaker wires. This allows you to run that 9 wire direct back to the 4 channel amp without having to run new speaker wires directly to the doors or rear areas. Stock OEM wiring and that 9 Wire like that can handle 100-150 watts easily. I am running 150 watts on my '03 Explorer wiring and it is fine no overheating nothing. Works great! Look it up and how people wire it. So much easier then running more wire. If running more then that yeah run new thicker wire.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Take a look to see what CDT has to offer on Xovers

 

[djdilliodon!]

CDT audio ex-560 deluxe has an xover point of 2500hz. It’s a good quality piece as well. Another option is going with pre built passives from the raw driver market like from Dayton for example.

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

CDT audio ex-560 deluxe has an xover point of 2500hz. It’s a good quality piece as well. Another option is going with pre built passives from the raw driver market like from Dayton for example.

Just installed my cdt comps. Love the sound but the tweeter protection s@cks?
I have the 560cdix xovers. The sat net 560 did not have the tweeter protection. Can’t get the desired volume without tweeters cutting out

 

[djdilliodon!]

Just installed my cdt comps. Love the sound but the tweeter protection s@cks?
I have the 560cdix xovers. The sat net 560 did not have the tweeter protection. Can’t get the desired volume without tweeters cutting out

the 300cc is the best one they make but it’s a 3 way. Back in the day I ran nearly 300w rms per side in my demo car on a 3 way set of ES-07’s using that xover with 0 issues. They had 2 ways Xovers back then with no tweeter protection but seems almost all have it now. Now a days I’ll either build or buy pre made passives from the raw driver market. My current demo car I’m using Dayton passives. All I had to do is make the xover cases which isn’t hard. The Xovers are dirt cheap and come in many different high pass and low pass frequencies. They are also available to run with 4 ohm or 8 ohm drivers/tweeters. You could always sell the cdt Xovers and use the funds to do Dayton passives. If you have a 4ch amp, I like to run A passive to each but if a 2 ch then a 2 way passive is the way to go.

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

the 300cc is the best one they make but it’s a 3 way. Back in the day I ran nearly 300w rms per side in my demo car on a 3 way set of ES-07’s using that xover with 0 issues. They had 2 ways Xovers back then with no tweeter protection but seems almost all have it now. Now a days I’ll either build or buy pre made passives from the raw driver market. My current demo car I’m using Dayton passives. All I had to do is make the xover cases which isn’t hard. The Xovers are dirt cheap and come in many different high pass and low pass frequencies. They are also available to run with 4 ohm or 8 ohm drivers/tweeters. You could always sell the cdt Xovers and use the funds to do Dayton passives. If you have a 4ch amp, I like to run A passive to each but if a 2 ch then a 2 way passive is the way to go.

I have a nvx vad8402 on the comps. It is 300x 2@ 4ohms. Which Dayton passives do you run?

 

[djdilliodon!]

I run this style https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...aker-Crossover-2-000-Hz-12-dB-Octave-260-1850

I’ll be running a 4 ch so I’m able to use a passive on each. Since you are running A 2 ch, you would have to run a 2 way passive. The only thing is, many of these 2 way passives will be for use with an 8 ohm tweeter. If you use a 4 ohm tweeter it will cut the high pass section on the tweeter by half. So say if you got a Dayton 2 way passive you would be able to use the jumper to use 4 ohm midbass drivers. If the xover is 4500hz the mid will play to 4500hz down and if using an 8 ohm tweeter 4500hz and up. With a 4 ohm tweeter it would play from 2250hz up on the tweeter instead of 4500hz up. Now can this work? Of course but can’t guarantee it will sound right in your application.