Ordered my system! Here's how it turned out, what do you think?

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Makes sense. My setup is very much permanent and long term. Will be sold with the car when that day comes.. I just bought this car a month ago.
As for crimping.. I know it will work fine,.. I don't have the tool to crimp 4 gauge wire.. (though I'm sure I could manage with some pliers, etc.. ) -- But, if I have the butane torch and solder already.. why not just solder it in, since it's permanent? It's cheaper than going and buying the proper crimping tool for that gauge wire. Nothing beats free.

I do need a soldering iron.. I use them for other things.. and mine burned up a while back. So Buying that isn't JUST for this one time install.. I'll take a look at that butane powered iron. I grabbed a "battery" powered wireless iron sometime back.. and took it back the same day. I should have known better.

I've just wondered whether to get a decent wattage regular iron.. or get a Gun. As the gun is going to be larger and harder in tight spaces. This butane wireless option sounds great. I don't solder enough for the butane running out often to really matter to me.

Yeah.. besides I didn't find any "kits" online.. or anything worth buying anyways. I ordered individually some heat shrink tubing for 5 bucks (144 pieces of all sizes.. ).. and I have zip ties, and wire strippers etc already. I also ended up ordering 30 Sq ft of sound deadener after thinking about it more. I think that will pay off in the long run. Got it for $60 or so.. was Rattletrap Extreme,.. probably not the best, but not the worst either.

So don't worry I didn't go buy a bunch of things I'll never use again. All that's left is going to be a run to the hardware store for some screws to mount the sub in the enclosure,.. 2 pieces of 1/2" wood (small) that I'm going to use to mount my amp and put a top on it.. some carpet to cover this wood.. few bolts for that , and maybe some wire loom. Nothing major. I'm not even drilling the doors anymore.. people said splicing into my factory wiring won't effect anything,.. so that will prevent me from drilling any new holes in the sides of the doors.

Only thing I'm not positive about now are the highpass/lowpass filters on the amp for front/rear/sub (and subsonic) settings (how to dial them in) since it's blind without markings to know where you are frequency wise. I can only guess playing tones while adjusting that is the way to do it.. but no ones confirmed that. I've only been told to not use the filters on the amp so far.

But I'm using solder and heatshrink tubing.. I assume heatshrink tubing is the replacement for electrical tape. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Thanks for the advice.

I bought a hammer punch crimp which works well and my soldering iron from parts express which is a variable one for 20 bucks

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

I like it minus the jl sub it's cheap meh for the price

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Makes sense. My setup is very much permanent and long term. Will be sold with the car when that day comes.. I just bought this car a month ago.
As for crimping.. I know it will work fine,.. I don't have the tool to crimp 4 gauge wire.. (though I'm sure I could manage with some pliers, etc.. ) -- But, if I have the butane torch and solder already.. why not just solder it in, since it's permanent? It's cheaper than going and buying the proper crimping tool for that gauge wire. Nothing beats free.

I do need a soldering iron.. I use them for other things.. and mine burned up a while back. So Buying that isn't JUST for this one time install.. I'll take a look at that butane powered iron. I grabbed a "battery" powered wireless iron sometime back.. and took it back the same day. I should have known better.

I've just wondered whether to get a decent wattage regular iron.. or get a Gun. As the gun is going to be larger and harder in tight spaces. This butane wireless option sounds great. I don't solder enough for the butane running out often to really matter to me.

Yeah.. besides I didn't find any "kits" online.. or anything worth buying anyways. I ordered individually some heat shrink tubing for 5 bucks (144 pieces of all sizes.. ).. and I have zip ties, and wire strippers etc already. I also ended up ordering 30 Sq ft of sound deadener after thinking about it more. I think that will pay off in the long run. Got it for $60 or so.. was Rattletrap Extreme,.. probably not the best, but not the worst either.

So don't worry I didn't go buy a bunch of things I'll never use again. All that's left is going to be a run to the hardware store for some screws to mount the sub in the enclosure,.. 2 pieces of 1/2" wood (small) that I'm going to use to mount my amp and put a top on it.. some carpet to cover this wood.. few bolts for that , and maybe some wire loom. Nothing major. I'm not even drilling the doors anymore.. people said splicing into my factory wiring won't effect anything,.. so that will prevent me from drilling any new holes in the sides of the doors.

Only thing I'm not positive about now are the highpass/lowpass filters on the amp for front/rear/sub (and subsonic) settings (how to dial them in) since it's blind without markings to know where you are frequency wise. I can only guess playing tones while adjusting that is the way to do it.. but no ones confirmed that. I've only been told to not use the filters on the amp so far.

But I'm using solder and heatshrink tubing.. I assume heatshrink tubing is the replacement for electrical tape. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Thanks for the advice.

Swedge tool for crimping large lugs is relatively inexpensive. Not worth the price of shipping probably, but if you were ordering cable from a welding supply house it wouldn't cost much more to add one. If your terminal is split vice grips will do a fine job if you're creative. The main issue I see with soldering a large lug is melting insulation before you really have the wire all hot enough to get deep penetration with the solder. I often solder things (and tin leads that go into my amp(s), but never large lugs. I've never noticed performance gain from running my own wires to doors. Not a bad idea if it's not too much hassle, but usually it's a lot of hassle for little gain.

I've had decent luck with some of the Home Depot "deadener". Check around the roofing and flashing section and see if anything inspires you. I know there's a lot of hate for that stuff. There's some thin stuff that's 100% butyl rubber and some rubberized asphalt with aluminum. I remember when ALL deadener was just asphalt and people were still paying 2$ a square foot for it, so I'm not sold on over-paying for name brand stuff. Really I got some "premium" deadener a few years ago in trade and most of it fell off rather quickly. Wasn't terribly impressed.

 

[Chromatic]

Swedge tool for crimping large lugs is relatively inexpensive. Not worth the price of shipping probably, but if you were ordering cable from a welding supply house it wouldn't cost much more to add one. If your terminal is split vice grips will do a fine job if you're creative. The main issue I see with soldering a large lug is melting insulation before you really have the wire all hot enough to get deep penetration with the solder. I often solder things (and tin leads that go into my amp(s), but never large lugs. I've never noticed performance gain from running my own wires to doors. Not a bad idea if it's not too much hassle, but usually it's a lot of hassle for little gain.

Yah, not gonna buy a crimping tool for 4gauge. I have a large butane torch,.. that works REALLY quick to solder your power and ground terminals on the 4 gauge (or larger). Not using a soldering iron for those. The Soldering iron will be for 14g-20g wire.

I've had decent luck with some of the Home Depot "deadener". Check around the roofing and flashing section and see if anything inspires you. I know there's a lot of hate for that stuff. There's some thin stuff that's 100% butyl rubber and some rubberized asphalt with aluminum. I remember when ALL deadener was just asphalt and people were still paying 2$ a square foot for it, so I'm not sold on over-paying for name brand stuff. Really I got some "premium" deadener a few years ago in trade and most of it fell off rather quickly. Wasn't terribly impressed.

On deadener.. I have the "name brand" stuff that molds well with roller and such for doors and whatnot. What I am curious about is maybe something to put under the seats (under carpet) to reduce roadnoise some. I think 30 Sqft will do my doors and rear bulkhead decently. I also bought a roll of Dynomat 1.5" Seal Tape. But yeah, for larger areas.. something is always better than nothing. I mean just regular insulation would help in a crevice or hole in a car rather than nothing, ya know.

If I were to put something under carpets on floor it has to be relatively thin.. so thin and sound absorbant,.. Is rubber type material best for that (road noise) type of absorption? For under carpet? I mean, I can live without anything there.. but it's quite noisy and this is not even considering audio,.. just how I can hear every grain of sand that hits the bottom of the car.. Needs to be deadened a little while I have the seats and console out.

 

[Jmez36hz]

Most silicone will have temp ratings listed on the container. Also look for something that drys soft not hard. If it dries soft it should be fairly easy to either use a razor blade or just pull it out if you need to later, the stuff that dries hard will give you more trouble. I'm sure your local hardware store has about 30 different suitable things ranging in prices.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yah, not gonna buy a crimping tool for 4gauge. I have a large butane torch,.. that works REALLY quick to solder your power and ground terminals on the 4 gauge (or larger). Not using a soldering iron for those. The Soldering iron will be for 14g-20g wire.

On deadener.. I have the "name brand" stuff that molds well with roller and such for doors and whatnot. What I am curious about is maybe something to put under the seats (under carpet) to reduce roadnoise some. I think 30 Sqft will do my doors and rear bulkhead decently. I also bought a roll of Dynomat 1.5" Seal Tape. But yeah, for larger areas.. something is always better than nothing. I mean just regular insulation would help in a crevice or hole in a car rather than nothing, ya know.

If I were to put something under carpets on floor it has to be relatively thin.. so thin and sound absorbant,.. Is rubber type material best for that (road noise) type of absorption? For under carpet? I mean, I can live without anything there.. but it's quite noisy and this is not even considering audio,.. just how I can hear every grain of sand that hits the bottom of the car.. Needs to be deadened a little while I have the seats and console out.

There's a lot of "debate" about sound deadener. Most of the stuff I've seen is from people who have a dog in the fight (like owners of companies or site owners who rely on advertising from deadener companies). Use your imagination. I'm not going to start a pissing contest about that issue here, sufficed to say, I've gone into Home Depot, used my imagination, and had fair enough results for the money invested.

 

[Chromatic]

Most silicone will have temp ratings listed on the container. Also look for something that drys soft not hard. If it dries soft it should be fairly easy to either use a razor blade or just pull it out if you need to later, the stuff that dries hard will give you more trouble. I'm sure your local hardware store has about 30 different suitable things ranging in prices.

Thanks. I'll do my reading on the "types" of silicone. Sounds like a plan.

 

[Chromatic]

There's a lot of "debate" about sound deadener. Most of the stuff I've seen is from people who have a dog in the fight (like owners of companies or site owners who rely on advertising from deadener companies). Use your imagination. I'm not going to start a pissing contest about that issue here, sufficed to say, I've gone into Home Depot, used my imagination, and had fair enough results for the money invested.

Well, this is more specific application (I thought anyway) given the limited space under carpet to keep it flat, and not lumpy, or over thick.. essentially remaining factory looking and feeling after the "XYZ" is under the carpet on the floor of the car. My imagination tells me some thin but thick rubber type whatever slid under there will dissipate road noise better than most anything else. I'm honestly not sure how this carpet comes up fully.. I believe I've read the edges come up easy enough to wire from taking off the door panels/seals (runners) .. but while I'm at it I'm going to put something (if I can) under the whole of the floor of the car. I've read that in this car the carpet is industrially put down with something.. ie: It doesn't just pull right up all the way once you pull the door runners off.. As long as I can get it back tight like it originally is I'll do this.. If it's using something from the factory that will be difficult to get back proper.. I'll just let it be under the seats. Sort of I'll find out when I get the seats and panels off type of deal.

Thing is I'm trying my best to buy things before I start the tear down to prevent unnecessary trips back out to stores. Invariably I'm sure I'll have to make a run to the hard ware store for something.. but I've prepared fairly well. I think I'll run down to the stores this afternoon and get the wood cut for the amp "rack" or mount done.. the carpet, 3M adhesive to mount the carpet.. (plus a short piece of PVC and spray paint for asthestics ).. some screws for Sub (Been told just get some dry wall screws for this).. and 12 bolts M6 x 25mm for the custom sub to mount properly in the factory location (was recommended by the SRQ fabricator .. as the factory bolts tend to be a little short ) And.. some odds and ends.

As for crimping -- The 4gauge wiring kit I got is absolutely incredible I have to say.. from Knuconcepts.. the quality is beyond what the pictures looked like.. especially the RCA's. Point is.. the Power wire and Ground wire are without connectors on them of course.. and connectors in the pack .. if they are crimp they are also Solderable.. With my torch I Can solder these connectors on very well then I'll heat shrink around it to prevent corrosion. Also gonna pop some Black wire loom around it just for a touch more protection (though doesn't really need it). The battery compartment in this car is completely protected under multiple trim pieces and snap on covers. Which is nice to keep it out of elements even with hood shut.

Found a great factory bolt about 2 feet behind where I'm mounting amp, even has a nut on it. So I'll grab a lock nut for it and that's ready to go with the standard 3ft of ground wire.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I've been using deck screws with the star drive for sub mounting lately. You're a lot less likely to strip them out or slip with the screw gun and punch a hole in the surround. Of course I've never had any problems with coarse thread drywall screws either so use what you like.

 

[Chromatic]

I've been using deck screws with the star drive for sub mounting lately. You're a lot less likely to strip them out or slip with the screw gun and punch a hole in the surround. Of course I've never had any problems with coarse thread drywall screws either so use what you like.

Yup.. I'm drilling tiny 1/8th or smaller pilot holes,.. Then have drywall screws (have sizes from 1/2" to 1 and 1/4" to be safe) and going to twist them in by hand just to be double safe to not ruin this custom box.

Thanks