Old school (2003) kicker cvr 12

I just linked everything that I recommended before so its on the latest post.

I have Memphis 4 Gauge OFC but I am going to need it if I buy a second summer car otherwise I would just send it to you along with a distribution block.
 
Here is the link again. Order your stinger wiring kit then order this from amazon as it will come with 3 extra fuses. You can do them in the 100 amp and you will have a fuse holder at the battery then one before the amplifier for piece of mind.

Here is the kit you said you were going to order....


Thank you. I appreciate it.
Here is the link again. Order your stinger wiring kit then order this from amazon as it will come with 3 extra fuses. You can do them in the 100 amp and you will have a fuse holder at the battery then one before the amplifier for piece of mind.

Here is the kit you said you were going to order....


and the second fuse holder for before the subwoofer. I would also IF you can afford to a ground distribution block like this one from stinger as I said for the future.


Idk where at in Northern Illinois as I am in Wisconsin and I am from Joliet and will be in Illinois at beginning of August. I might even be able to get or send you one of these below if I can find the extra one I have.


and the second fuse holder for before the subwoofer. I would also IF you can afford to a ground distribution block like this one from stinger as I said for the future.


Idk where at in Northern Illinois as I am in Wisconsin and I am from Joliet and will be in Illinois at beginning of August. I might even be able to get or send you one of these below if I can find the extra one I have.

Thank you.
45 or so mins from aurora
 
Idk what you are going to use for a head unit but that would be helpful to know as well. Maybe someone here has a nice cheapo unit for down the line if you wanted to upgrade. I have a couple extra Kendwood KDC-X998's but I know one will go into the second car if I buy it this year yet. And the 2nd one is a spare I keep around,lol. I'll talk to some people I know and see if I can come up with a free or really cheap one with 4 volt rca's at least on them.
 
What is the closest town actually give or take 5-10 miles and north/south/east/west? 45 minutes from Aurora around there is a lot of different places,lol. I was born down there and lived there for 25 years so I know the area really well.
 
Idk what you are going to use for a head unit but that would be helpful to know as well. Maybe someone here has a nice cheapo unit for down the line if you wanted to upgrade. I have a couple extra Kendwood KDC-X998's but I know one will go into the second car if I buy it this year yet. And the 2nd one is a spare I keep around,lol. I'll talk to some people I know and see if I can come up with a free or really cheap one with 4 volt rca's at least on them.

I wanted to use factory because putting a spacer in always looks junky to me and knowing myself I'd mess it up. The whole point of my "project" was for some aftermarket bass.
 
The ground distribution block is for adding a 4 channel amplifier in the future if you so choose to. You don't need to buy it now just save that link for the future then as those are always around.

Okay how are you going to hook up the subwoofers and amplifier then to the head unit? For a stock unit you need a LOC of some sort .You should get a quality LOC not some cheap walmart one.

This is a cheapo but a decent one as you want to have one with the adjustable on it.


These 2 below are the ones most people go to.



If you are strapped for cash then get the NVX at ebay here below. Same one as at sonicelectronix.


Sigh if you were closer and you could find a decent used head unit I would just show you how to do it. It doesn't look chunky and off when it is done right. Been doing this for 25+ years and only once did it look off and that was because I broke one of the taps on the install kit.

So you are going to have to order that NVX so you can wire into the oem wiring via high inputs and then the LOC is adjustable. Others here are better at that then I am as I haven't had to do that in over 20 years and that was for a friends car.
 
What car again? I can't remember exactly which one. I'll do some digging with people on a head unit tomorrow and see what I come up with then you would just need the mounting kit and wiring harness which are like 15-20 bucks total.

This stuff adds up which is why we told you to expect a little bit of cost you weren't expecting. If you knew some of the money that some of these guys have tied up just in power wire like jeffdajeff running over 30,000 watts plus batteries your eyes would explode,lol.

You are learning we all had to at some point but once you learn little by little it tends to get easier.
 
He had said he wanted to stay stock he doesn't like the look of the mounting kits
A good LOC with a line driver in it should do the trick

OP- Most kids (sorry) at your age won't get their ass off the couch to do a damn thing
Hats off to you if at the very least the effort your putting into getting this done
 
The ground distribution block is for adding a 4 channel amplifier in the future if you so choose to. You don't need to buy it now just save that link for the future then as those are always around.

Okay how are you going to hook up the subwoofers and amplifier then to the head unit? For a stock unit you need a LOC of some sort .You should get a quality LOC not some cheap walmart one.

This is a cheapo but a decent one as you want to have one with the adjustable on it.


These 2 below are the ones most people go to.



If you are strapped for cash then get the NVX at ebay here below. Same one as at sonicelectronix.


Sigh if you were closer and you could find a decent used head unit I would just show you how to do it. It doesn't look chunky and off when it is done right. Been doing this for 25+ years and only once did it look off and that was because I broke one of the taps on the install kit.

So you are going to have to order that NVX so you can wire into the oem wiring via high inputs and then the LOC is adjustable. Others here are better at that then I am as I haven't had to do that in over 20 years and that was for a friends car.

The wattage that the locs are talking about it preamp from the radio right?
 
What car again? I can't remember exactly which one. I'll do some digging with people on a head unit tomorrow and see what I come up with then you would just need the mounting kit and wiring harness which are like 15-20 bucks total.

This stuff adds up which is why we told you to expect a little bit of cost you weren't expecting. If you knew some of the money that some of these guys have tied up just in power wire like jeffdajeff running over 30,000 watts plus batteries your eyes would explode,lol.

You are learning we all had to at some point but once you learn little by little it tends to get easier.

Honda fit. No I know, but I tallied up sub, amp, fuses, fuse holders, and wiring kit to under 350 still.

Where is my second fuse getting wired again?
 
He had said he wanted to stay stock he doesn't like the look of the mounting kits
A good LOC with a line driver in it should do the trick

OP- Most kids (sorry) at your age won't get their ass off the couch to do a damn thing
Hats off to you if at the very least the effort your putting into getting this done

So do I need a line driver?


The wattage that the locs are talking about it preamp from the radio right?

And can you point me in the right direction for which loc to get please?
 
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No you need a LOC if you want to stay stock. I posted up the links to them above. You can go with the NVX or if you want to go with the best one then the Audiocontrol is the best one that costs 99.99 in the link above. Icr if Amazon has them or not for that price. Either one will do so it is either 25 or 99 dollars.

The second fuse holder will go a 10-12 inches before the amplifier as a added insurance.
 
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