lets just say things will sound even more ugly than before with more power. You will need trunk treatments along with a lot of rattle treatment so you can actually enjoy bass instead of rattle.
Your mids and highs will be drowned out most definitely as well. If you listen to metal, you definitely want a proper front stage with powerful midbass to keep up with the subs. I'm a metalhead as well, you'll want a proper head unit with SQ features that allow you to really experience a personal metal concert in your car.
I would not get the mofo as it cant play upper notes which a lot of metal music has and has a fairly limited bandwidth aka SQ *****. How much space are you willing to give up in the back area? Are you building a proper custom ported enclosure as well? we can figure out a nice setup for you on a budget easily.
I could build a sub box, but it would be just that. I don't know what size to make it or anything, I would just slap it together. I don't know anything about that except for pre-drilling the holes so the screws don't split the wood and stuff. The box it came in when I bought it from that kid, looked like it's had 2 or 3 different subs in it over its lifespan. The 4 screws that were in the sub box holding the kicker in were all messed up. One screw was just literally vibrating right out of the box. So I went to the same stereo shop where I am going Friday to get my windows tinted and have them check out the amp and everything and bought another box, which is pre-fab. I am not sure what it’s cubic feet are, but I know it’s a little bigger than the box the kicker was in and it sounded way better as soon as it was in the new box. In the original box it came in, the sub was I guess slapping against the box when it would hit. You could hear the box rattle more than anything else. I couldn’t really notice the trunk rattling believe it or not after it was in the new box. Even with my old system I couldn’t really hear the trunk rattle unless I was outside of my car. I at one time had a Pioneer headunit that I ended up selling on
ebay because I didn’t like it. I didn’t like the equalizer it had on it, so I never even bothered hooking it up in my Camry. My factory stereo isn’t all that bad sounding. Best factory stereo I have ever heard, next to the older Delco the late 90’s Chevrolet trucks had. The port on the new box is about maybe a 4x4 square tube, maybe 3x3. The port on the box it came in was about 2½ inches wide and the length of the box, and the kid had the amp screwed down to that on the port side when I first got it.
I am not against replacing every speaker in my car and even getting an amp for those as well, if my budget allowed for it. I don’t want to go buying some boss amp, though, or Pioneer speakers and all that stuff. There’s a few stereo places in Dallas and Irving that offer some 90 days same as cash deal but it’s through a leasing company, which I do know. I bought my first system that way, but the inflation kills me. I went to a shop in Sherman and the guy had a deal that I guess wasn’t so bad, he was going to give me 2 Skar Audio 600w 12’s, an 800 watt amp, and a probox that was pre-fabbed for $600. But when I looked online at Skar Audios website I could have had all the same, but a bigger amp for $489. But then would have to rack my brain figuring out how to build a box good enough for it that would spec out to what it should be for the subs.
I really this time want the single sub because I don’t want to give up the majority of my trunk space. The Memphis 12’s I had before, my wife would go grocery shopping and come back bumping the hell out of it with cracker boxes, cucumbers and all kinds of crap rubbing all over the subs. I went with ported box this time only because of the power. I liked my sealed box I had the Memphis subs in, but those were only 250/500 subs. And it was all pro installed and tuned, so I didn’t really worry about the heat. It sounded awesome all the way up until I sold it which was 2 years after I had it put in my Camry, and I owned that same setup and had it in a 2001 Dodge Ram single cab for about 6 months prior to that.
As for the MOFO, there’s no turning back now. I ordered and paid for it last night and it has already been shipped and will be here Thursday sometime. I watched several videos on youtube of people who had the same sub, watching their vehicles flex and vibrate and get all beat to hell with that sub. I know you wouldn’t buy it, and that’s all right. You probably have a lot more money than I do and could tune your system on your own. I know I could too, if I went and bought the tools to do it. I don’t even own anything bigger than a ¼ in socket set and a drill and some drill bits. I don’t have a DMM, don’t have a DD1, don’t have anything like that.
I have dealt with the leasing company that offers 90 days same as cash and think I have some room there for my credit, I think maybe $1700. But the weekly payments would probably do me in quick. When I used them the first time I paid it off in 90 days and just paid the original $900 it costed for that PPI and Memphis subs and all that stuff I had gotten.
If I have the mofo wired to 2 ohms, then my amp is only going to be feeding it about 800 watt rms, right?
. So realistically if you cool yourself with the age old 4x60, then you can expect like a 30 or so amp draw from the car itself. So you really got like 70 x 14 = 980 watts for your amp. So if your not going to upgrade the alt, then you will need a deep cycle battery and give it time to recharge from time to time.
