New system, JBL speakers, Sundown X8

AudiophileZach

Sundown > Everything
Hey fellow car audio guys, I'm gonna be making my own speaker box for a Sundown X8, I'm gonna use 3/4 MDF, my question is; What saws will I need to make it? I have a table, and circular saw, but I'm a little confused on how to cut out the hole, jig saw? What saws do you guys use on sub enclosures? I know all my calculations to make the box, should I port it? I'm leaning towards a sealed box for this x8. If I get another in the future I can make a dual 8in definitely ported, but with one right now I'm not sure. Also, any product recommendations for my power cable splitter, I'm using 0 guage from battery to the splitter with 4 guage running to a 4 channel amp powering a full set of JBL Club series, 3.5's in dash, 6.5's in doors, and 6x9 components in the back. 0 guage running from power cable splitter to the amp to power the sundown. btw it's a 2009 Chrysler Sebring convertible. If anyone can recommend a good quality brand to use for my connections and terminals that'd be great, I'm using Skar audio 12 gauge OFC speaker wire for my JBL's. I want this system to be as quality as possible. Everything done so far is professionally installed by myself. Im probably going to be sound dampening my entire car, this weekend with 1/4" thermal proof heat shield type stuff. I have all the speakers bought already, I only have the 3.5s, and 6.5s installed right now, running from a single din Boss head unit 200 w 50x4. Ill be upgrading to a nice double din when I buy the amps I need. I don't have the amps, amp wiring kits, power cable splitter, nice double din, or a good new battery yet. Everything else I've purchased. Open to all recommendations on anything. I've built like 5 complete systems in my time buts it's been a good 7 years since I built one. I also already have a 275 amp upgraded alternator, stock was a measly 120 amps.
 
Hey fellow car audio guys, I'm gonna be making my own speaker box for a Sundown X8, I'm gonna use 3/4 MDF, my question is; What saws will I need to make it? I have a table, and circular saw, but I'm a little confused on how to cut out the hole, jig saw? What saws do you guys use on sub enclosures? I know all my calculations to make the box, should I port it? I'm leaning towards a sealed box for this x8. If I get another in the future I can make a dual 8in definitely ported, but with one right now I'm not sure. Also, any product recommendations for my power cable splitter, I'm using 0 guage from battery to the splitter with 4 guage running to a 4 channel amp powering a full set of JBL Club series, 3.5's in dash, 6.5's in doors, and 6x9 components in the back. 0 guage running from power cable splitter to the amp to power the sundown. btw it's a 2009 Chrysler Sebring convertible. If anyone can recommend a good quality brand to use for my connections and terminals that'd be great, I'm using Skar audio 12 gauge OFC speaker wire for my JBL's. I want this system to be as quality as possible. Everything done so far is professionally installed by myself. Im probably going to be sound dampening my entire car, this weekend with 1/4" thermal proof heat shield type stuff. I have all the speakers bought already, I only have the 3.5s, and 6.5s installed right now, running from a single din Boss head unit 200 w 50x4. Ill be upgrading to a nice double din when I buy the amps I need. I don't have the amps, amp wiring kits, power cable splitter, nice double din, or a good new battery yet. Everything else I've purchased. Open to all recommendations on anything. I've built like 5 complete systems in my time buts it's been a good 7 years since I built one. I also already have a 275 amp upgraded alternator, stock was a measly 120 amps.
Signal is king, don’t use that boss. also that boss won’t put out anything near 50x4. Prioritize a good hu over anything else

jbl club 3”2-way coaxial and 6.5” coaxials is going to lead to less tHan ideal imaging. Also the 6x9’s aren’t going to do anything amazing your imaging either Once you have the sub in how are you hooking up and powering three sets of speakers (inputs) even before the sub


a single component set (2 way or 3 way) on a $80 bridged 4 channel amp would likely outperform all those speaker sets.


great sub! Servings have big trunks for putting your bike in so should be able to getGood amount of boom.
 
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KnuKonceptz makes some really good installation equipment. I am using the battery terminal posts, distribution blocks, RCA's, and Kord speaker cable in my system. If I didnt already have a Skar audio OFC wiring kit like you do I would be using their Kolossus kits myself. I recommend 100%. They ship fast too.

 
KnuKonceptz makes some really good installation equipment. I am using the battery terminal posts, distribution blocks, RCA's, and Kord speaker cable in my system. If I didnt already have a Skar audio OFC wiring kit like you do I would be using their Kolossus kits myself. I recommend 100%. They ship fast too.

Bro
KnuKonceptz makes some really good installation equipment. I am using the battery terminal posts, distribution blocks, RCA's, and Kord speaker cable in my system. If I didnt already have a Skar audio OFC wiring kit like you do I would be using their Kolossus kits myself. I recommend 100%. They ship fast too.

Bro, thank you so much. That's the site I was looking for but couldn't for the life of me remember. Thank you!!!
 
Signal is king, don’t use that boss. also that boss won’t put out anything near 50x4. Prioritize a good hu over anything else

jbl club 3”2-way coaxial and 6.5” coaxials is going to lead to less tHan ideal imaging. Also the 6x9’s aren’t going to do anything amazing your imaging either Once you have the sub in how are you hooking up and powering three sets of speakers (inputs) even before the sub


a single component set (2 way or 3 way) on a $80 bridged 4 channel amp would likely outperform all those speaker sets.


great sub! Servings have big trunks for putting your bike in so should be able to getGood amount of boom.
Damn.. I obviously thought I knew more than I actually do. Can you briefly explain imaging? Or point me to a thread explaining it? Apparently these JBL Club series are pretty good, almost top of the line JBL wise, I use to love infinity but it's honestly just way to expensive. But Harmon owns Infinity and JBL, I love the coaxials I have installed now, they sound great, super clear. Great highs from the 3.5's & the 6.5's sound great. I thought I did great with my speaker decision, obviously not though.... Like I said I plan to buy two amps when I buy everything to install my sub, I was planning on running those 3 sets of JBLs off a 4 channel, I haven't decided on wattage yet, and i plan to run my sub off of one mono channel amp.
 
Signal is king, don’t use that boss. also that boss won’t put out anything near 50x4. Prioritize a good hu over anything else

jbl club 3”2-way coaxial and 6.5” coaxials is going to lead to less tHan ideal imaging. Also the 6x9’s aren’t going to do anything amazing your imaging either Once you have the sub in how are you hooking up and powering three sets of speakers (inputs) even before the sub


a single component set (2 way or 3 way) on a $80 bridged 4 channel amp would likely outperform all those speaker sets.


great sub! Servings have big trunks for putting your bike in so should be able to getGood amount of boom.

Oh yeah, definitely getting rid of the boss h/u when I buy my amps and wiring kits. It was just a cheap h/u to get my harness installed, and get some decent music going before my system gets further down the line. I don't have a specific h/u or amps in my mind yet. Still researching.
 
Signal is king, don’t use that boss. also that boss won’t put out anything near 50x4. Prioritize a good hu over anything else

jbl club 3”2-way coaxial and 6.5” coaxials is going to lead to less tHan ideal imaging. Also the 6x9’s aren’t going to do anything amazing your imaging either Once you have the sub in how are you hooking up and powering three sets of speakers (inputs) even before the sub


a single component set (2 way or 3 way) on a $80 bridged 4 channel amp would likely outperform all those speaker sets.


great sub! Servings have big trunks for putting your bike in so should be able to getGood amount of boom.
Back in the day I had a set of 4x6 coaxial infinity kappa series, and a set of infinity kappa series 6.5's coaxial with (2) super tweeters on the same channel as the 6.5's hooked up to audiopipe crossovers, i forget the brand, but they were good. I was running 2 Kicker L7 solo baric 12"s and I thought it was a killer system. I wish I would have known this before I bought and entire set of JBL Clubs, they were $225, the component 6x9 were like $115. I haven't heard them hooked up yet.
 
A lot of people use a router to cut the sub hole but I use a jigsaw until I get my shop up and running. You are good with a table and circular saw for the other cuts
 
Damn.. I obviously thought I knew more than I actually do. Can you briefly explain imaging? Or point me to a thread explaining it? Apparently these JBL Club series are pretty good, almost top of the line JBL wise, I use to love infinity but it's honestly just way to expensive. But Harmon owns Infinity and JBL, I love the coaxials I have installed now, they sound great, super clear. Great highs from the 3.5's & the 6.5's sound great. I thought I did great with my speaker decision, obviously not though.... Like I said I plan to buy two amps when I buy everything to install my sub, I was planning on running those 3 sets of JBLs off a 4 channel, I haven't decided on wattage yet, and i plan to run my sub off of one mono channel amp.

actually that makes sense. If the 3.5’s and the 6.5’s s are both 4ohm Full range coaxials you wire Them together down to a 2
Ohm load. If your like the sound. 6x9’s typically add a bunch of high frequencies that you want coming from your front
 
actually that makes sense. If the 3.5’s and the 6.5’s s are both 4ohm Full range coaxials you wire Them together down to a 2
Ohm load. If your like the sound. 6x9’s typically add a bunch of high frequencies that you want coming from your front
How would I wire them to 2 ohm? The lower the ohm, the easier the load on the amp, correct?
 
Can you briefly explain imaging?

So quick rundown is the ideal listening for stereo recordings is stereo speakers. The key is it's recorded in 2 channels and meant to be played back in 2 channels. Ideally all sound waves at all frequencies hit your ears at the same exact time, this is why a listening room at a store or in your home would be you and L and R speakers in an equilateral triangle, mids/tweets/woofers are generally all lined up (often even slightly slanted back since the sound originates from the coils which are then all aligned so everything hits your ears at once).

In a car the first perfect score SQ vehicle modified the car so the driver sat center of the back seats to achieve this effect (he used 8" mids and ID horns up front). Today you can do a lot with time alignment but it's still just a workaround for not being able to set yourself up a "backseat driver". The point being the more **** you have stuck all over the place in there, the more issues you'll have with peaks and nulls forming from reflection/absorption of sound waves from each, and also the fact that all the sound sources on L and R are coming from all over the place.

These guys aren't lying. Just a good set of 6.5" components up front should get plenty loud and you eliminate a lot of opportunities for acoustic troubles.

And as others said, jigsaw is fine, router with a circle jig is better and an angle grinder with one of those big sanding disks won't hurt to have around either if you're not 100% on your cuts. I'd check Sundown recommendations on that sub, most high power subs these days are designed to function best in ported alignment and I'm guessing X may be one of those.

I have been shopping Darvex for ages when it comes to wiring/connectors/distro blocks/etc. He used to be "bag boy" on eBay and I used to buy from him then. Always a good selection and fair prices and sometimes some crazy deals in closeout section. I believe all those distro blocks and such are built in the same Chinese factory and even the iffy brands are usually serviceable.
 
So quick rundown is the ideal listening for stereo recordings is stereo speakers. The key is it's recorded in 2 channels and meant to be played back in 2 channels. Ideally all sound waves at all frequencies hit your ears at the same exact time, this is why a listening room at a store or in your home would be you and L and R speakers in an equilateral triangle, mids/tweets/woofers are generally all lined up (often even slightly slanted back since the sound originates from the coils which are then all aligned so everything hits your ears at once).

In a car the first perfect score SQ vehicle modified the car so the driver sat center of the back seats to achieve this effect (he used 8" mids and ID horns up front). Today you can do a lot with time alignment but it's still just a workaround for not being able to set yourself up a "backseat driver". The point being the more **** you have stuck all over the place in there, the more issues you'll have with peaks and nulls forming from reflection/absorption of sound waves from each, and also the fact that all the sound sources on L and R are coming from all over the place.

These guys aren't lying. Just a good set of 6.5" components up front should get plenty loud and you eliminate a lot of opportunities for acoustic troubles.

And as others said, jigsaw is fine, router with a circle jig is better and an angle grinder with one of those big sanding disks won't hurt to have around either if you're not 100% on your cuts. I'd check Sundown recommendations on that sub, most high power subs these days are designed to function best in ported alignment and I'm guessing X may be one of those.

I have been shopping Darvex for ages when it comes to wiring/connectors/distro blocks/etc. He used to be "bag boy" on eBay and I used to buy from him then. Always a good selection and fair prices and sometimes some crazy deals in closeout section. I believe all those distro blocks and such are built in the same Chinese factory and even the iffy brands are usually serviceable.
Okay, so imaging is basically the "X" effect. I'm still confused to why I won't have good imaging with my speakers, as of right now with the 3.5s in the dash, and the 6.5s in door it sounds balanced. I don't see how when I get my amps and run all my speakers to an amp and get my component 6x9s hooked up how my imaging could get worse? But you guys are definitely more in the know than me. I'm starting fresh after a long time of no audio builds. So you suggest getting component 6.5's? And keep my component 6x9s? I can see how mounting the tweeter from the 6.5s up high could balance the sound even more.
 
So quick rundown is the ideal listening for stereo recordings is stereo speakers. The key is it's recorded in 2 channels and meant to be played back in 2 channels. Ideally all sound waves at all frequencies hit your ears at the same exact time, this is why a listening room at a store or in your home would be you and L and R speakers in an equilateral triangle, mids/tweets/woofers are generally all lined up (often even slightly slanted back since the sound originates from the coils which are then all aligned so everything hits your ears at once).

In a car the first perfect score SQ vehicle modified the car so the driver sat center of the back seats to achieve this effect (he used 8" mids and ID horns up front). Today you can do a lot with time alignment but it's still just a workaround for not being able to set yourself up a "backseat driver". The point being the more **** you have stuck all over the place in there, the more issues you'll have with peaks and nulls forming from reflection/absorption of sound waves from each, and also the fact that all the sound sources on L and R are coming from all over the place.

These guys aren't lying. Just a good set of 6.5" components up front should get plenty loud and you eliminate a lot of opportunities for acoustic troubles.

And as others said, jigsaw is fine, router with a circle jig is better and an angle grinder with one of those big sanding disks won't hurt to have around either if you're not 100% on your cuts. I'd check Sundown recommendations on that sub, most high power subs these days are designed to function best in ported alignment and I'm guessing X may be one of those.

I have been shopping Darvex for ages when it comes to wiring/connectors/distro blocks/etc. He used to be "bag boy" on eBay and I used to buy from him then. Always a good selection and fair prices and sometimes some crazy deals in closeout section. I believe all those distro blocks and such are built in the same Chinese factory and even the iffy brands are usually serviceable.
Thank you for taking the time to explain that! Really appreciate it!!! I've gotten some crazy cheap deals on ebay the last couple weeks on car audio connector kits, like those quick splice T taps, 250 piece kit (all awg sizes) for $9. And I got a variety size kit of male and female spade connectors for $8. They came in like 3 days.
 
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AudiophileZach

Sundown > Everything
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