new build

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

fyi peeps i tried the two "best" adhesives supposedly on the shelf. liquidnails fuze it and locktite 8x. the fuze it is silicon based and its a better "sealant" the 8x is a ****** adhesive but is much more porous and gets a **** ton harder. its a toss up really. i think they are both more than adequate. i'm going to try the 3x and see if its a medium between the two.

Fuze It is a polymer based (not silicone based) adhesive and is a related to what PPG uses to glue in aircraft windows. Loctite 3x and 8x are polyurethane based adhesives.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Fuze It is a polymer based (not silicone based) adhesive and is a related to what PPG uses to glue in aircraft windows. Loctite 3x and 8x are polyurethane based adhesives.

Thanks money. They both good stuff no doubt.

 

[Beentown]

When Powergrab is an appropriate adhesive I use the Ultimate most times as it sets faster. Just an FYI.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

When Powergrab is an appropriate adhesive I use the Ultimate most times as it sets faster. Just an FYI.

Cool. I didn't care about the dry times honestly but that's good to know. I slept all day. Worked from 1:30 to 530 am. Crazy ******* call hours. Gotta go grab some more wood. I hate call. It's good money but man it ***** me all up. Got a call Saturday at 3pm then Saturday at 11 pm. Upside is I get 8 hours for 4 hours of work.

 

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

if youre mixing all the resin for corners might as well coat the entire inside of the box with a thin layer of straight resin to help seal and smooth everything.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

if youre mixing all the resin for corners might as well coat the entire inside of the box with a thin layer of straight resin to help seal and smooth everything.

Lol. I have to do some phase testing. Technically I'd probably want to speed up or slowdown the rear wave depending on the lag I get. So diffracting the front wave might be more beneficial than the rear wave but chances are it's not very logical from the physical aspect. The resin is really just to seal it. As for diffracting the rear wave is pretty tricky too but if you can get it to deflect inside the box enought without increasing acoustical impedance you can benifit from the coupling.simply put the resin might throw me off. Lol

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Also another point that need be though of is absorbsion. The resin will offer less absorption that for increasing output so it's a good thought and I used to do it but I didn't nearly have the knowledge I do have today.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Still waiting on the mids. Got the sides done. Sealed the top with loctite high density insulation. The top and bottom are going good to be glassed into the box.

Last time I use the foam insulation it was good but this new stuff is so strong I don't need to reinforce the thing. I can't believe how strong and dense it is. I can hit my roof and it doesn't flex.

I'm undecided if I want the xs power 7500 or the batcap 8800. I'll post up some pics in a few. Still ruff but it's definitely VERY SOLID. I'm excited now..

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

single layer baffle, and box?..

looks like 9 layer birch or something but.. still

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

single layer baffle, and box?..
looks like 9 layer birch or something but.. still

Once I brace it and glass it it will not flex. Trust me.. the bracing techniques are the key man And they act like diffusion panels to boot to reduce the standing waves diffuse the waves from loading the cones (more impedance rise but more efficent) and direct the waves to the port.

People get hell bent over multiple layers when thoughtful bracing is superior. Also I have 1/4 lug bolts 1/4" flats and locks for the woofers. I'm gonna put nuts on the back as well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Nice lil carbon cone. Very stiff spider.

Back to sleep.

I kind of cheaed out and got some peel and seal for the inside of the door panel itsself. It's going to be screwed and glassed so I figured it'd be ok..

Hopefully they sound good and they come with grills. My mb8s got kicked a few times. Man those things jammed. Still waiting on recones.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Testing.. broke something between the windshield and the sunroof where the lighting console is..

Fuse at 400 amps and it didn't blow. Gotta get some dual 1ohm drivers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Didn't check my voltage but I know it's in the 11s with one battery..

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

still have the vp700.1? not surprised you didnt pop the 400a fuse. would have to be a burp near tuning, current draw was similar to the banda, maybe a little more. the taramps bass 12k is louder though, for sure. considering the pricing, it's a beast of an amp. would recommend

you need actual electrical before expecting anything out of it, dont be a noob about it

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

still have the vp700.1? not surprised you didnt pop the 400a fuse. would have to be a burp near tuning, current draw was similar to the banda, maybe a little more. the taramps bass 12k is louder though, for sure. considering the pricing, it's a beast of an amp. would recommend
you need actual electrical before expecting anything out of it, dont be a noob about it

I know but I f****** got it on my mind today I was putting it in and I wanted to hear this f*****. With this install I should get a lot of rise but that means efficent. I swear bro it's at least one 156 as is. I can barely drive. It hurts. I think I'm gonna get dual 1s.