My install's coming along nicely

[jRi0T68]

Maybe his installer doesn't even exist, and is a figment of his bipolar psychosis.

 

[JohnKuthe]

Maybe his installer doesn't even exist, and is a figment of his bipolar psychosis.

Maybe YOU don't really exist, and your posts just come from some EVIL BOT! ;-)

John Kuthe...

 

[JohnKuthe]

No…there is ONE blue/white wire…there is also a blue wire…the blue/white activates external devices such as amps…the blue wire activates the power antenna if your vehicle is so equipped….the blue/white will carry 12v when the HU is activated…the blue will only show 12v when the 'radio' feature is selected from the source selection.

Oh, then THIS wiring diagram straight out of the H800 manual is LYING!!

I have told you this already and so does the manual….why can you seriously not understand such simple $hit? When people (and manuals) have explained it quite clearly.

I just posted what the H800 manual shows, TWO blue/white wires.

Then you dispense 'advice' to others…while dismissing and insulting the experienced folks that try to help you.

You clearly have mental/social issues…I'm sure this forum isn't the first time you've heard this.

It's actually kind of sad…I wonder if 'Installer guy' isn't milking you for your $$$….taking advantage of the 'special' guy.

I'm actually paying him more than he's asking for, just because this project is taking so darned long, and I have the $$ and he and his family NEEDS the $$!

…I mean you brag about throwing money at the install just for kicks (purple kicks)…two months later you still haven't figured out how to correctly run the RCA's(that you've somehow already run?!)….you've almost melted your amps without even presenting them with a load(how the fk do you accomplish that?)

That's still a mystery. Must've had something to do with an insufficient GND because when I had installer guy run a dedicated 0AWG cable to the battery's Neg post the excessive amp heating problem went away. Explain that!!

….and you can't even get your $hit to TURN ON…

If the way you approach this forum, it's members, the advice you get etc, the same way you approach the rest of your lives interactions…then…you must be a pretty lonely dude.

Yes, I AM rather lonely in the course of my weeks lately. Many here are too, else why are they here?

John Kuthe...

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Oh, then THIS wiring diagram straight out of the H800 manual is LYING!!

I just posted what the H800 manual shows, TWO blue/white wires.

Do you not know how to read? The manual specifies the wires!!!

I'm actually paying him more than he's asking for, just because this project is taking so darned long, and I have the $$ and he and his family NEEDS the $$!

That's still a mystery. Must've had something to do with an insufficient GND because when I had installer guy run a dedicated 0AWG cable to the battery's Neg post the excessive amp heating problem went away. Explain that!!

Yes, I AM rather lonely in the course of my weeks lately. Many here are too, else why are they here?

John Kuthe...

Try again Rainman…no diagram posted...

 

[ilikeradios 10+ year member]

Oh, then THIS wiring diagram straight out of the H800 manual is LYING!!
Yes, I AM rather lonely in the course of my weeks lately. Many here are too, else why are they here?

John Kuthe...

I do not post on this forum because I am lonely, I post here because car audio is one of my hobbies that I enjoy.

Holy crap you are messed up.

 

[JohnKuthe]

Try again Rainman…no diagram posted...

Darn! Must be a "I can see it and no one else can" thing then! :-( Bloody computers! :-(

John Kuthe...

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

The individual blue/white wires on the PXA will be labelled as 'rem in' and 'rem out'…if 'Installer guy' has removed the labels then you'll have to test and see which is which…since you're connected to let's call it blue/white-A and it's not working…try connecting it to blue/white-B…..pretty simple. I'm not about to remove the heatshirnk on my PXA's wire harness to confirm the pin-out for you.

To test for this (since installer guy doesn't seem to know how to) is to apply 12volts to blue/white A or B and if it's the 'input' (rem-in) then 12 volts should then appear on the UNCONNECTED blue/white (rem-out)

The rem-out will be the output from a relay so it's ok to apply 12volts to the rem-out while testing because it is the dead pole of the relay. As an EE you should understand how a relay works.

 

[JohnKuthe]

The individual blue/white wires on the PXA will be labelled as 'rem in' and 'rem out'…if 'Installer guy' has removed the labels then you'll have to test and see which is which…since you're connected to let's call it blue/white-A and it's not working…try connecting it to blue/white-B…..pretty simple. I'm not about to remove the heatshirnk on my PXA's wire harness to confirm the pin-out for you.
To test for this (since installer guy doesn't seem to know how to) is to apply 12volts to blue/white A or B and if it's the 'input' (rem-in) then 12 volts should then appear on the UNCONNECTED blue/white (rem-out)

The rem-out will be the output from a relay so it's ok to apply 12volts to the rem-out while testing because it is the dead pole of the relay. As an EE you should understand how a relay works.

Well, my installer guy's pretty dead set on that he's got it wired up correctly, so the quagmire now is why does the H800 DSP's documentation SAY the H800 DSP must be turned on using the RUX controller when folks here say it turns on for them without it?

John Kuthe...

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Well, my installer guy's pretty dead set on that he's got it wired up correctly, so the quagmire now is why does the H800 DSP's documentation SAY the H800 DSP must be turned on using the RUX controller when folks here say it turns on for them without it?
John Kuthe...

The documentation is saying you need to have the PXA connected to either the RUX controller or an AI equipped Alpine HU in order to operate the DSP. You installer guy has the wrong wire. Your installer guy can be dead-set all he wants…but if it doesn't work, then it doesn't work, bottom line. He/you have it connected incorrectly…just test this, confirm this, admit this, learn from this…and move on.

 

[JohnKuthe]

The documentation is saying you need to have the PXA connected to either the RUX controller or an AI equipped Alpine HU. You installer guy has the wrong wire. Your installer guy can be seat-set all he wants…but if it doesn't work, then it doesn't work. He/you have it connected incorrectly…just test this, confirm this, admit this, learn from this…and move on.

Or maybe all here who say their H800 DSP turns on and off with their HU have it connected via that AI junk, and are just not saying that in order to make themselves feel better.

John Kuthe...

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Or maybe all here who say their H800 DSP turns on and off with their HU have it connected via that AI junk, and are just not saying that in order to make themselves feel better.
John Kuthe...

I JUST told you I have MINE hooked up via the remote wire!!! Seriously WTF is wrong with you?!

 

[JohnKuthe]

I JUST told you I have MINE hooked up via the remote wire!!! Seriously WTF is wrong with you?!

Well, if YOUR H800 DSP turns on and off with your HU and mine does not, AND we have them connected identically I'd suspect your HU and my HU are not the same! Maybe your's is AI functional and mine is not! I have the Alpine CDE-153BT, you?

John Kuthe...

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Well, if YOUR H800 DSP turns on and off with your HU and mine does not, AND we have them connected identically I'd suspect your HU and my HU are not the same! Maybe your's is AI functional and mine is not! I have the Alpine CDE-153BT, you?
John Kuthe...

AI-net is a specific cable you fvcktard! It's not a hidden function….either the HU has it (and the corresponding plug and cable) or it doesn't….I know what kind of equipment I have, I know how to hook it up correctly…MINE is working, YOURS is not…they are NOT wired the same…You're seriously blaming a HU and saying 'maybe' I have AI-net and just don't know it…rather than ever consider the fact that your incompetent 'Installer gay' can't even figure out how to turn on your fvcking equipment!

You sir are retarded.

 

[peterletran 10+ year member]

Lemme see....what's wrong with this post? 1st your a member since 2008 but only have 20 posts?? Wow....nice of ya to show up every 10 years or so then barely leave a few comments/replies.
Obviously, you need to sit back and read the last 42 pages of complete nonsense about this John character. It may take ya a few hours so hopefully you got some time to kill. Then, afterwords you'll understand how huge his ego is, hard-headed as he can be, and just completely tells us no when making suggestions to him trying to help him out. All while hiring a so called Craigslist car audio installer who he claims to have a few winning installations in the past of which there's no proof.

First of all ... to respond to the second half of your post, I went through the first 2 or 3 dozen posts and couldn't read anymore.

I see what you mean about this John guy, but the reason why I NEVER go on this forum is because most of the time,

everyone is only trying to bash on anybody. I'm not high and mighty like this guy, and I'm relatively humble.

However, in the span of 4 hours, there's already been several replies that made me feel like an *** and an idiot, but I didn't do anything.

 

[peterletran 10+ year member]

If your head-unit for some reason isn't powering the DSP on and off with it's remote wire,

you can have the DSP turned on and off via the ignition switch which is the red wire going into the head-unit.

This isn't recommended, because your head-unit may be powered off while your DSP is on or vice-versa through other means.

If the amplifiers are powering on and off via your head-unit, the 8-pin wire harness on the DSP is wired incorrectly.

I'm too lazy to find a pin diagram for the DSP unit, and there are 66 pages of PXA-H800 manual I don't want to dig through.

However, typically, all equipment is powered on/off by the blue wire with a white stripe called a remote wire from the head-unit.

As for your dedicated ground cable from the battery to the amps, I think the initial issue is with ground between the battery and the car.

Yes, you probably alleviated the problem with your dedicated 0 gauge cable, but you probably used 10 feet +/- 5 feet of expensive cable.

The Big 3 is significantly shorter. Remember to always use 100% Oxygen Free Copper cables.

There is a LOT of Copper plated aluminum circulating around everywhere and these are by far less conductive of electricity current.