My install's coming along nicely

You're a nurse. To take people's blood pressure and temperature. Don't church it up. I can preform field medicine. Don't make me a doctor
And I have a database of medical knowledge in my head that many do not too!

John Kuthe...

 
Which part is BS? Are you familiar with any version of the DSM? Do you know, without Google, what PAS is? How many clinic hours did you do specifically in behavioral health? None?

You may know how to deal with patients with behavioral health issues, only as far as it pertains to nursing duties, but you are not educated on diagnostic criterion, so you should stop speaking like you are.

 
I don't like to cast aspersions but I have a feeling hes a nurses aid and not an rn.

 

---------- Post added at 03:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------

 

aka a buttwiper

 
call himself a musician for pluggin some patch cables on someone elses analog synth and not knowing jack about music, calls himself a programmer cant recognize simple code, maybe its time to stfu

 
I was just wondering the same thing and more so, Why do I keep looking at it ? Must be like a car wreck that you cant not look at it lol!
Several Last Worders, all in a row! :)

Ever notice how some people just seem to always need to get the last word in? I noticed that for my first time working for IBM and a woman on our team was a Last Worder! Always got the last word in! I;m kinda that way too. Back in Usenet Newsgroups, I kinda considered it that I won if EVERY thread ended with post of mine! Pathological, mayne. But I always have something to say. Hence the ellipsis "..." after my name! :)

John Kuthe...

 
Final amp and power installation, added Knukonceptz' 2 way Distribution Block for 0AWG blue 12v+ and black GND in and two 4AWG of each to the amps:

14940117_1179418182118660_7666253232326903288_o.jpg


and you are all gonna hate this, but I could not stand those huge holes in the driver's/passenger's door so I got some thin steel sheet metal and a bunch of 1/16" double sticky tape and little hex head self tapping screws and used both to mount my cover panels and block that big hole! :) I made a pattern with a piece of waxed paper, cut the sheet metal and installer guy's gonna put Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro over it all, do my doors are gonna be a little more like sealed (but leaky!) speaker cabinets!

14889743_1179418178785327_1520862339852072185_o.jpg


Installer guy got Dampilifier Pro installed in both front doors today and I can HEAR the difference already! Yum! Needs more power and a sub woofer which are coming!

John Kuthe...

 
And who mentioned linear actuators to automate the opening of the Stow-n-Go storage compartments? Now you have me thinking about those! I'd need a couple of pre-actuators to pull open the latches first! But that could easily be automated!

OMG someone got me thinking again! :) I Googled "12v linear actuator" and got a BUNCH of them!!

John Kuthe...

 
I hate to say it, but it looks like it's coming along well. Better than I anticipated.

I can't tell in the picture or not, but if you haven't already you may want to decouple the speaker from the door using foam or sticky sided tape. Rattles are annoying and detract from the listening experience once you start getting a system tuned in.

A quick note: you're not trying to create a sealed cabinet (at least in the sense of the word you're using and in this case) for your door speakers. You're trying to isolate the back wave from the front wave. A normal speaker cabinet is meant to couple with the driver's dampening characteristics (QTS) to create a desired frequency response whereas in the door you're basically taking an "infinite" baffle approach.

P.S. I still think you're a self deluded egomaniac who doesn't know **** about EE or CS.

 
if that compartment is going to be sealed maye a fan to keep the components nice and cool.. isolate the ground for the fan or put a small cap to filter the noise.. other than that make sure you deaden the doors and put something to decouple the rear wave that kiils transient response and causes all kids of breakup.. believe it or not those paper egg crates work wonders. make **** sure you seal up the doors good as possible as well.

 
I hate to say it, but it looks like it's coming along well. Better than I anticipated.
Thank you! :) I'm making the best of what I have, or trying to.

I can't tell in the picture or not, but if you haven't already you may want to decouple the speaker from the door using foam or sticky sided tape. Rattles are annoying and detract from the listening experience once you start getting a system tuned in.
We're actually using Boom Mats with the backs cut out as a kind of speaker mount gasket material and a rear wave guide towards the rear, sort of like FA.S.T. Rings claim to do. I'll get pics after we do the rear 6x9s. I contact cement them to the rear of the speaker mounting frame.

A quick note: you're not trying to create a sealed cabinet (at least in the sense of the word you're using and in this case) for your door speakers. You're trying to isolate the back wave from the front wave. A normal speaker cabinet is meant to couple with the driver's dampening characteristics (QTS) to create a desired frequency response whereas in the door you're basically taking an "infinite" baffle approach.
Pretty much. The door space is what it is, very little tuning to the driver's frequency characteristics,. Just trying to trap that rear wave and prevent recombinent cancellations.

P.S. I still think you're a self deluded egomaniac who doesn't know **** about EE or CS.
That's all in my professional past, true, but I still remember a lot of it.

John Kuthe...

 
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