ThxOne Premium Member
The Boss
- Thread Starter
- #271
If I set the sub to to 65hz and the midbass to 80 it's gonna sound real shitty real quick. The midbass doesn't come close to having enough output to blend where the sub would drop off. If I could get my door speakers to respond like my near field monitors on my desk I could see using those crossover points. There is NO bass from the kick drum in those 6.5" midbass, just the snap of the beater on the head of the drum... the sub fills in the bass. I wish my midbass would have bass output like that. It would change the ball game for me for sure. That is why I have things set the way I do.1) why are your crossover points so high? unecessary. do sub up to 65hz. midbass from 80 to 350, midrange/tweeter 350 on up. you also shouldnt be using generic passive crossovers while mixing/matching drivers, but thats not a huge issue right now if nothing is blowing
2) he means half octave, but this is for a more common crossover, like around 80hz.midbass at 80hz, sub at 65. this helps keep them in phase at the actual intended crossover point while allowing the sub to play at a higher amplitude. This is also ONLY for the sub to midbass crossover. NOT all of them. Set
3) i would probably set signal delay based on the midrange drivers location, not an average of them and the tweeters. Phase isnt as important at high frequencies but will greatly effect the midrange placement if the differences in distance between mid and tweeter arent subtle
The midbass has no issues playing up to 1Khz and the last time I played my DD 2.75" mids lower than 700hz the cone came free from the dust cap/coil. If you know of some magic that will get me bass I can feel from the midbass that would be awesome and I could lower the subs x-over.