Multile door speakers in same door ? (front stage)

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Should be fine, if you have any spare 4 channel amps you can bridge that as well rather than spending more money on unnecessary gear. Most normal deadeners second skin, knu, stinger roadkill etc.. are all fine.. doesnt matter what you choose as long as its not the ebay specials.



yup. Different tools for different purposes. But with a DSP you can meld them together perfectly.

But, what qualifies a 6-½" as a pro audio speaker, as opposed to a regular 6-½"? My Pioneer mids and tweets say pro, does that mean that they are pro audio speakers?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

But, what qualifies a 6-½" as a pro audio speaker, as opposed to a regular 6-½"? My Pioneer mids and tweets say pro, does that mean that they are pro audio speakers?

yes

 

[John Doe]

Should be fine, if you have any spare 4 channel amps you can bridge that as well rather than spending more money on unnecessary gear. Most normal deadeners second skin, knu, stinger roadkill etc.. are all fine.. doesnt matter what you choose as long as its not the ebay specials.



yup. Different tools for different purposes. But with a DSP you can meld them together perfectly.

Getting everything together right now as we speak. I’m also in the process of looking for a new sub. Would I be better off getting an Brahma or a 12” JLw6 v2 D4(locally someone is selling for $350). I always see you guys on this forum recommend the Brahma but outside of this forum I’ve never heard of it and can’t find much videos on it like the JLs..

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

yes

O.k., thanks. I was just curious of the technical differences. I'll go and try to figure it out on my own. Sorry if I burdened you.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

O.k., thanks. I was just curious of the technical differences. I'll go and try to figure it out on my own. Sorry if I burdened you.

no burden, ususally if a speaker has pro in its name its pro audio oriented which means the technical specs are going to match the label. there's nothing else to it other than a yes answer lmao

Getting everything together right now as we speak. I’m also in the process of looking for a new sub. Would I be better off getting an Brahma or a 12” JLw6 v2 D4(locally someone is selling for $350). I always see you guys on this forum recommend the Brahma but outside of this forum I’ve never heard of it and can’t find much videos on it like the JLs..

the Brahma is a far superior motor structure to the JL, SPL wise and is no slouch in the SQ department at all. Honestly a dayton ho series sub is on par with a w6 and thats at 1/4 the price. 350 for a w6 is overpriced sorry to say i would not pay more than 250 for a w6. I used to be able to get them for 150 in my local craigslist but you know inflation and all after a couple of years.

Hell i actually have three w6 10s right now that i just built a box for. I got these for 20 dollars each because the guy thought they were beyond repair and only wanted to clear his garage. The coils were good, all it needed was a 12 dollar refoam kit for each sub and I have three perfectly good w6 10s for less than 70 bucks. Look for better deals dude lol.

 

[John Doe]

no burden, ususally if a speaker has pro in its name its pro audio oriented which means the technical specs are going to match the label. there's nothing else to it other than a yes answer lmao



the Brahma is a far superior motor structure to the JL, SPL wise and is no slouch in the SQ department at all. Honestly a dayton ho series sub is on par with a w6 and thats at 1/4 the price. 350 for a w6 is overpriced sorry to say i would not pay more than 250 for a w6. I used to be able to get them for 150 in my local craigslist but you know inflation and all after a couple of years.

Hell i actually have three w6 10s right now that i just built a box for. I got these for 20 dollars each because the guy thought they were beyond repair and only wanted to clear his garage. The coils were good, all it needed was a 12 dollar refoam kit for each sub and I have three perfectly good w6 10s for less than 70 bucks. Look for better deals dude lol.

Yeah, I always see you guys also recommend the Dayton as well. Guess it sounds like the Brahma would be the best of both worlds compared to all 3 huh? If that’s the case I’ll more than likely end up getting it. I live in Hawaii, so very rarely does anyone sell anything at a steal lol damn cost of living..

 

[AshleyOU]

you can start by getting speakers that are much higher sensitivity. the ones you had arent loud for crap lol. Consider a 3 way active front stage. 6.5 Midrange in the kick panels on axis, 6.5 midbass in the doors, and a pair of tweets with at least 92 db sensitivity or higher. the difference between an 89 db sensitivity speaker aka your JBLs(i had the same ones) vs a 92 db sensitivity mid is absolutely planets apart, not miles but PLANETS! Go raw drivers, run active, you wont get anything good out of component speakers sorry to say. the 90 db sensitivity on the ground zero is pretty below mediocre as well. I wouldnt settle for anything under 92 to be honest. Any harshness can be tamed by going active and using proper crossover points to blend the mid and tweet together to smooth any harsh peaks in the overall response.

Thanks for the write up. I will ask my installer about going active. Will also ask if we do go passive then get higher sensivity, I know hertz is a good brand if you like higher sensitivy.

Going to treat the doors better on this new build which should help some. Last build just did a half ass job of some 80mm deadener in the front 2 doors and trunk. This build plan on doing all 4 doors + trunk with deadener/acoustic foam and then sealing the outer portion of the doors with MLV

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the write up. I will ask my installer about going active. Will also ask if we do go passive then get higher sensivity, I know hertz is a good brand if you like higher sensitivy.

Going to treat the doors better on this new build which should help some. Last build just did a half ass job of some 80mm deadener in the front 2 doors and trunk. This build plan on doing all 4 doors + trunk with deadener/acoustic foam and then sealing the outer portion of the doors with MLV

you got the order messed up. Its deadener (both on the metal interior door panel and cavities and the plastic door panel that you can pull off from your door), seal up all the gaps with MLV or sheet metal(plus deadener on the sheet metal) then you put CCF closed cell foam on top to fully decouple any amount of rattle that will happen from the increased midbass performance. Acoustic foam does absolutely nothing other than attract water, you need CCF to decouple and mlv or sheet metal (sheet metal is bettter imo) to turn the door into a proper speaker enclosure.

If you get a dayton dsp and just use passive crossovers, than dont even bother with the dayton... going passive completely defeats the purposes of getting a dsp.

When you go active you can literally EQ each individual left and right tweeter, you can time align them as well so you get a perfect sound stage. With components you are dealing with mids and tweeters at different distances so your soundstage and image will always be off and sloppy.

Reason why keeping the passive crossover is a **** idea is because if your car has a natural peak at 5khz and the speaker is crossed over at 5000hz between mid and tweet in a passive component set(aka the focals), you are gonna have overlap which raises output at that frequency which is gonna rip your ear drums to shreds with the harshness, no amount of EQ can save this, it'll just sound like **** regardless of how you EQ it, you might have experienced this with the JBL MS62c(you think its the tweeter but no if you listen carefully its the mid playing into tweeter frequencies that cause the harshness as well). Now if you go active, you can literally choose a 4000hz and 6000hz crossover point with appropriate slope and now that 5000hz is tamed naturally and there will be zero harshness left and you can EQ to fine tune the rest but the bulk of the tune is taken care of and your music will be nice and pleasant vs irredeemably harsh. Not to mention you will actually have a proper sound stage and can literally see music through your ears like a live recording studio on your dash, you can literally see the instruments through hearing. Again, achievable through running active good luck with passive.

 

[John Doe]

you got the order messed up. Its deadener (both on the metal interior door panel and cavities and the plastic door panel that you can pull off from your door), seal up all the gaps with MLV or sheet metal(plus deadener on the sheet metal) then you put CCF closed cell foam on top to fully decouple any amount of rattle that will happen from the increased midbass performance. Acoustic foam does absolutely nothing other than attract water, you need CCF to decouple and mlv or sheet metal (sheet metal is bettter imo) to turn the door into a proper speaker enclosure.

If you get a dayton dsp and just use passive crossovers, than dont even bother with the dayton... going passive completely defeats the purposes of getting a dsp.

When you go active you can literally EQ each individual left and right tweeter, you can time align them as well so you get a perfect sound stage. With components you are dealing with mids and tweeters at different distances so your soundstage and image will always be off and sloppy.

Reason why keeping the passive crossover is a **** idea is because if your car has a natural peak at 5khz and the speaker is crossed over at 5000hz between mid and tweet in a passive component set(aka the focals), you are gonna have overlap which raises output at that frequency which is gonna rip your ear drums to shreds with the harshness, no amount of EQ can save this, it'll just sound like **** regardless of how you EQ it, you might have experienced this with the JBL MS62c(you think its the tweeter but no if you listen carefully its the mid playing into tweeter frequencies that cause the harshness as well). Now if you go active, you can literally choose a 4000hz and 6000hz crossover point with appropriate slope and now that 5000hz is tamed naturally and there will be zero harshness left and you can EQ to fine tune the rest but the bulk of the tune is taken care of and your music will be nice and pleasant vs irredeemably harsh. Not to mention you will actually have a proper sound stage and can literally see music through your ears like a live recording studio on your dash, you can literally see the instruments through hearing. Again, achievable through running active good luck with passive.

Huh? Nah bro I am planning on going Active with the Dayton lol.

 

[AshleyOU]

...

Thanks for the write up. I called my installer and he said you where exactly right. Also DSPs have come way down in price so it's something I can target now for sure. When I inquired in 2014 not alot of installers did it and the models where very pricey.

Huh? Nah bro I am planning on going Active with the Dayton lol.

That quote was clearly quoted/direct at me and I was the one who created this thread.

Why did you think he was talking to you ? If you want to ask him questions start your own thread or PM him directly.

 

[John Doe]

Thanks for the write up. I called my installer and he said you where exactly right. Also DSPs have come way down in price so it's something I can target now for sure. When I inquired in 2014 not alot of installers did it and the models where very pricey.
That quote was clearly quoted/direct at me and I was the one who created this thread.

Why did you think he was talking to you ? If you want to ask him questions start your own thread or PM him directly.

I skipped through your post because I wanted to see what input the veterans had to say lmao yall some weirdos on this site for real I’ll do whatever I want when I want homie

 

[AshleyOU]

I skipped through your post because I wanted to see what input the veterans had to say lmao yall some weirdos on this site for real I’ll do whatever I want when I want homie

I like how use courtesy and comprehension, contact him directly equals "ya'll are some weirdos I do what I want". Quite the characters on this site

 

[SkizeR 10+ year member]

raw drivers are individual drivers you can buy that you can pair up with anything you want picking the best tool for the job vs a premade set that either works with your car acoustics or does not, its like playing the lottery with component sets, either you like the sound or it sounds like **** in your car but sounds good in another person's car... thats acoustics for you. You are literally at the mercy of a luck draw when relying on component speakers with a passive crossover. You need to step up your game and do active networks if you want any real results.

If a component set "sounds good" in one car, but not in another car, it has almost nothing to do with the speakers. The control (the speakers) stays the same. That would be due to install/tuning/the transfer function of vehicle/install locations itself. Raw drivers do not make the issues of a car and the need to do a proper install and lay down a good tune vanish.

If that focal has decent midbass, i'd use that as a dedicated midbass and buy a beyma or prv neo or crescendo un 6.5 as some dedicated midrange in your kick panels, toss away the passive crossover, add a dayton dsp and get another 2 channels of amplification and you are set for a really nice 3 way active front that'll sound good and get loud as balls.

This type of combo would be silly. A midbass that has a sensitivity under 90db, but pairing it with a midrange that's just as large and has a much higher sensitivity? to tune it properly, you will have to throttle back the midrange and wouldn't be used how it was intended, and you would be leaving its pro's on the table, while still getting all of its downsides. If a good sounding car that isn't "demo car" loud, then a good 3 or 4" midrange tuned properly is much louder than most would think and would still most likely need to be knocked down a bit to match the midbass.

btw if you dont like the jbl tweets, the focal tweets will rip through your ears on the passive crossover. They are much stronger than the JBLs and you definitely need a DSP to control that **** especially when most focal mids are crossed around 5khz which has a lot of overlap in frequencies which causes nasty sibilance aka the ssss and shhhh sounds that rip your ear drums..

again, tuning issue. Focal makes their tweeters very efficient vs their midbass and midrange drivers for a reason, and it actually makes sense. You can always knock down levels on a tweeter to get a linear response, but you cant always dump more power in them to get them to mate up to the midrange in the event that said mid has a more efficient transfer function than the tweeter. A lot of car audio companies do this, and its for that reason.

 

[John Doe]

I like how use courtesy and comprehension, contact him directly equals "ya'll are some weirdos I do what I want". Quite the characters on this site

Omg you’re so crazy