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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Multile door speakers in same door ? (front stage)
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8715901" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>you got the order messed up. Its deadener (both on the metal interior door panel and cavities and the plastic door panel that you can pull off from your door), seal up all the gaps with MLV or sheet metal(plus deadener on the sheet metal) then you put CCF closed cell foam on top to fully decouple any amount of rattle that will happen from the increased midbass performance. Acoustic foam does absolutely nothing other than attract water, you need CCF to decouple and mlv or sheet metal (sheet metal is bettter imo) to turn the door into a proper speaker enclosure.</p><p></p><p>If you get a dayton dsp and just use passive crossovers, than dont even bother with the dayton... going passive completely defeats the purposes of getting a dsp.</p><p></p><p>When you go active you can literally EQ each individual left and right tweeter, you can time align them as well so you get a perfect sound stage. With components you are dealing with mids and tweeters at different distances so your soundstage and image will always be off and sloppy.</p><p></p><p>Reason why keeping the passive crossover is a **** idea is because if your car has a natural peak at 5khz and the speaker is crossed over at 5000hz between mid and tweet in a passive component set(aka the focals), you are gonna have overlap which raises output at that frequency which is gonna rip your ear drums to shreds with the harshness, no amount of EQ can save this, it'll just sound like **** regardless of how you EQ it, you might have experienced this with the JBL MS62c(you think its the tweeter but no if you listen carefully its the mid playing into tweeter frequencies that cause the harshness as well). Now if you go active, you can literally choose a 4000hz and 6000hz crossover point with appropriate slope and now that 5000hz is tamed naturally and there will be zero harshness left and you can EQ to fine tune the rest but the bulk of the tune is taken care of and your music will be nice and pleasant vs irredeemably harsh. Not to mention you will actually have a proper sound stage and can literally see music through your ears like a live recording studio on your dash, you can literally see the instruments through hearing. Again, achievable through running active good luck with passive.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8715901, member: 650438"] you got the order messed up. Its deadener (both on the metal interior door panel and cavities and the plastic door panel that you can pull off from your door), seal up all the gaps with MLV or sheet metal(plus deadener on the sheet metal) then you put CCF closed cell foam on top to fully decouple any amount of rattle that will happen from the increased midbass performance. Acoustic foam does absolutely nothing other than attract water, you need CCF to decouple and mlv or sheet metal (sheet metal is bettter imo) to turn the door into a proper speaker enclosure. If you get a dayton dsp and just use passive crossovers, than dont even bother with the dayton... going passive completely defeats the purposes of getting a dsp. When you go active you can literally EQ each individual left and right tweeter, you can time align them as well so you get a perfect sound stage. With components you are dealing with mids and tweeters at different distances so your soundstage and image will always be off and sloppy. Reason why keeping the passive crossover is a **** idea is because if your car has a natural peak at 5khz and the speaker is crossed over at 5000hz between mid and tweet in a passive component set(aka the focals), you are gonna have overlap which raises output at that frequency which is gonna rip your ear drums to shreds with the harshness, no amount of EQ can save this, it'll just sound like **** regardless of how you EQ it, you might have experienced this with the JBL MS62c(you think its the tweeter but no if you listen carefully its the mid playing into tweeter frequencies that cause the harshness as well). Now if you go active, you can literally choose a 4000hz and 6000hz crossover point with appropriate slope and now that 5000hz is tamed naturally and there will be zero harshness left and you can EQ to fine tune the rest but the bulk of the tune is taken care of and your music will be nice and pleasant vs irredeemably harsh. Not to mention you will actually have a proper sound stage and can literally see music through your ears like a live recording studio on your dash, you can literally see the instruments through hearing. Again, achievable through running active good luck with passive. [/QUOTE]
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Multile door speakers in same door ? (front stage)
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