Move component tweeter higher location help.

[silicondt]

So my son bought a 2006 chevy silverado. We upgraded the head unit to a XAVAX1000 because he wanted carplay. I was thinking the speakers were stock.

We planned on getting some component speakers one day with maybe an amp/sub etc..

We noticed one of the tweeters behind the grill looked like it was flopping and it was rattling over bumps. So I took the door off and to my surprise it already has component speaker in it.

They are boston S60. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-rPmJawn7nfx/p_065S60/Boston-Acoustics-S60.html

Question 1: They are 4ohm and 92 sensitivity.. They seem to work OK with the head unit we have.. do they really need an amp? Would putting an amp on them make them sound clearer at high volumes?

Question 2: We would like to relocate the tweeter higher. I have included a video on two spots we can move them to. Either the little plastic triangles on the door itself. Or the A-pillars, but they are angled towards the front window. Which spot would be better?

- Video of my situation.

Thanks!

Click to read more...

 

[HardofWhoring]

You might be able to find a deal here:

Sale

WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Superstore, the Largest Selection at the Lowest Prices!

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Speaker wire. 16 ga is just fine. You may be able to hunt down some 14ga OFC on Amazon. I buy12ga and 14ga 100-500ft rolls from@SkyHigh Audio

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=41378&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PMax:+Smart+Shopping+-+Monoprice+-+Cables&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_acc=6614305189&hsa_cam=17490724715&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjwib2mBhDWARIsAPZUn_m_kTK-ZZyjg5Upmj3tFZILH95nYKN3rWKB9WXpIhJa3DDrRNYjndcaAhCAEALw_wcB

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

I have a really nice birch console box with two 10"s just sitting here for this truck..

Shipping might get crazy though..

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

The rear speakers are 4x6 if I remember right? You can leave those on the HU power. but i would recommend placing a Bass cap on the + wire for each rear speaker. these should work just fine

Home

Speaker Protector Inline High Pass Filter 300 Hz/150 HzThe Speaker Protector is designed to prevent damaging low frequencies from reaching automotive midrange and high frequency drive units. It improves sound quality by lowering distortion levels. Just splice the Speaker Protector into the...

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Here is a bit better deal on a 4ga OFC amp kit

AMPKIT-4GA-ELITE // 4 Gauge 2000 Watt Amplifier Wiring Kit (OFC)

The CT Sounds 4 gauge OFC complete amplifier wiring kit is perfect for systems rated up to 2000 watts and includes everything from a waterproof fuse holder to a bundle of zip ties for cable management to get your stereo going faster.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I wouldn't be in a hurry to sell those comps, the Boston S60 are decent component speakers. I'd just try double sided tape in different locations and go with whatever sounds best.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I wouldn't be in a hurry to sell those comps, the Boston S60 are decent component speakers. I'd just try double sided tape in different locations and go with whatever sounds best.

I dont think they would last very long with or without power. I feel like if they were the Pro series that handled more power that they may last the kid a little longer on an amp without clipping or running into distortion and blow them and having to pull the door panels back off and put another set of speakers in. If he is going to add a sub later down the road or subs, id get a set of components that will keep up with the sub stage. IMO

 

[silicondt]

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-133881-Polk-Audio-MM6502.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-196514-Deaf-Bonce-MLA-2160.html

Stinger SK4641 4-Gauge Power & Signal Amplifier Kit (SK-4641)

Stinger SK4641 • 4 Gauge 100% Oxygen-Free Copper Tru Spec 4000 Series Power + Signal Amplifier Wiring Installation Kit for Amplifiers Up to 1500W RMS • 4 Gauge 4000 Series Power & Signal Amplifier Wiring Kit • Designed Specifically for Car Audio Systems up to 1500 Watts • 2-Channel RCA...

www.sonicelectronix.com

For the front doors speaker installation. These can be found on Ebay pretty cheap. i would locate the Xscorpian ones

Metra 81-4300 Universal 5.25" and 6.5" Car Speaker Baffle (pair)Default Title

For use with 5.25" or 6.5" speakers Can be cut to provide better bass response Design to reduces panel vibration High grade Black ABS plastic construction

www.thewireszone.com

Would the MLA-2160 also run an amp down the line with the front? Looking for one amp to run sub and front speakers. Or is two separate amps better?

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I dont think they would last very long with or without power. I feel like if they were the Pro series that handled more power that they may last the kid a little longer on an amp without clipping or running into distortion and blow them and having to pull the door panels back off and put another set of speakers in. If he is going to add a sub later down the road or subs, id get a set of components that will keep up with the sub stage. IMO

I wouldn't worry about it. I remember a lot of guys giving those comps 100wrms (unclipped) without problems.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Would the MLA-2160 also run an amp down the line with the front? Looking for one amp to run sub and front speakers. Or is two separate amps better?

Its not easy to find a good price and a fairly decent BNEW 2 ch amp as this one. A multi ch amp will usually limit you on the Sub stage output and limitations on running a decent 1ohm mono/sub stage and can get pricey! and run warmer?hotter. I like to run a dedicated amplifier for sub,mids, and tweets and midbass

 

[silicondt]

I wouldn't be in a hurry to sell those comps, the Boston S60 are decent component speakers. I'd just try double sided tape in different locations and go with whatever sounds best.

So far with testing they sound way better on the door triangle (sail panel) than on the A-pillar angled towards the front window.
The only thing is the drivers side sail panel only has a very small area to mount when the door is closed. And no way to recesses the tweeter, which isn't a huge deal.

 

[silicondt]

Its not easy to find a good price and a fairly decent BNEW 2 ch amp as this one. A multi ch amp will usually limit you on the Sub stage output and limitations on running a decent 1ohm mono/sub stage and can get pricey! and run warmer?hotter. I like to run a dedicated amplifier for sub,mids, and tweets and midbass

Ok so the MLA-2160 for components, and find a separate sub amp later when I pick which sub we will get.
On the 2006 Silverados, what is the best place to mount? Behind the back seat?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Would the MLA-2160 also run an amp down the line with the front? Looking for one amp to run sub and front speakers. Or is two separate amps better?

My neighbors 07 when he lived here.
#1single din Sony HU(cant remember the Model # was not a 4v, more like 2v front and rear RCAs he bought before speaking with me
#2 earthquake 7000 Pramp EQ (7v) to beef up the signal V and have full tuning control adjustments at his fingertips
#3 polk Audio DB 6.5 components
#4 Existing 4x6 rear speakers with Bass Blockers on HU power
#5 American Bass XFL 10 dual 2 ohm in a used 10" Bazooka Bass Tube under drivers rear seat
#6 American Bass VFL Hybrid 26801D first generation Mono amp
#7American Bass VFL Hybrid 150.4 first generation 4 ch amp
Both amplifiers in Rear Passenger under seat stacked.L-Shape made MDF amp rack with grey carpeting 4 ch on bottom and Mono amp on top
#8 Sky high 0ga OFC supply with 250Amp ANL Fuse to Xscorpian 0ga-(2)4ga Mini ANL Fuse holder and XScorpian Solid Ground T distribution block(1) 0ga in -(2)0-4ga out
#9 (2) sets of Stinger zero Noise 4000 RCAs 2ch and one 1ft 2ch

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My neighbors 07 when he lived here.
#1single din Sony HU(cant remember the Model # was not a 4v, more like 2v front and rear RCAs he bought before speaking with me
#2 earthquake 7000 Pramp EQ (7v) to beef up the signal V and have full tuning control adjustments at his fingertips
#3 polk Audio DB 6.5 components
#4 Existing 4x6 rear speakers with Bass Blockers on HU power
#5 American Bass XFL 10 dual 2 ohm in a used 10" Bazooka Bass Tube under drivers rear seat
#6 American Bass VFL Hybrid 26801D first generation Mono amp
#7American Bass VFL Hybrid 150.4 first generation 4 ch amp
Both amplifiers in Rear Passenger under seat stacked.L-Shape made MDF amp rack with grey carpeting 4 ch on bottom and Mono amp on top
#8 Sky high 0ga OFC supply with 250Amp ANL Fuse to Xscorpian 0ga-(2)4ga Mini ANL Fuse holder and XScorpian Solid Ground T distribution block(1) 0ga in -(2)0-4ga out
#9 (2) sets of Stinger zero Noise 4000 RCAs 2ch and one 1ft 2ch

He Had already bought an Atrend ported under the back seat enclosure for a single 12 and a Kicker 12" sub, but he wanted more. So I had an old Bazooka Bass Tube and an american Bass XFL DVC2 ohm ten and put those together and placed it in there and its been in there every since. He didnt want to spend anymore $ on an enclosure. It fit under drivers back seat with seat down. Truck system Slamms pretty good

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ok so the MLA-2160 for components, and find a separate sub amp later when I pick which sub we will get.
On the 2006 Silverados, what is the best place to mount? Behind the back seat?

Yes on amplifier and No I would not place amps behind that seat. They will runHot /get no air circulation .Place amps under passenger rear seat and a single 10 under rear drivers seat. stack amp on top of each other. Make an L shape wood amp board. I can PM you a hand drawn easy amp stack for that truck.Basicly two pieces of solid wood to cover with carpet and two strips to mount bottom 2ch amp on and attach L portion to one bottom amp strip and it should lay just on top of the seat well and screw that down, mono amp screws on top of L flat spot and the Distribution and fused distib. Blocks, and you can use the seat belt bolt on that truck for the ground location. Sounds hard as explained , but its very easy to make and do and looks and holds very nice and out of the way from getting kicked and amps get air, and mounted securely and easy to get to for tuning