Mounting Sub Box to Rear Deck and Using Rear Deck Speaker Holes as Ports

[SlugButter]

https://islandprecisionaudio.com/ cut me slack on the site as I built it myself . It’s a work in progress and I promise in the future it will be revamped! I also highly recommend dealing with me directly if interested in any subs, I always preferred dealing with someone on a one on one basis when handling a purchase. Any time you are about to give up you’re hard earned money you should ask questions and receive answers. When I was a dealer back in the day I didn’t even have a website, I dealt with every person before a purchase was made and I’ll always prefer it that way! My number and email is on the site and feel free to also send texts if you wish!

Yeah. I said it wrong. Lol. That is the one I have bookmarked. I saved it because I’m looking for a 15 to run sealed on 1000-1500 watts in the future.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Yeah. I said it wrong. Lol. That is the one I have bookmarked. I saved it because I’m looking for a 15 to run sealed on 1000-1500 watts in the future.

the SL while rated at 1000 will easily handle 1200. All of them the ratings are conservative. I have tested an SL15 free air at 1200w rms playing test tones full tilt with no mechanical noise or funny smells etc. At 1500w rms someone who knows the limits could easily run it but an SQL15 would be better suited in a box on the larger side.

 

[SlugButter]

the SL while rated at 1000 will easily handle 1200. All of them the ratings are conservative. I have tested an SL15 free air at 1200w rms playing test tones full tilt with no mechanical noise or funny smells etc. At 1500w rms someone who knows the limits could easily run it but an SQL15 would be better suited in a box on the larger side.

I have an SUV, so room isn’t much of an issue. I don’t want a 10 cube box really though. LolI want to try a 15 in a bunch of different boxes, but specifically a 15 that I can play around with in 4th order bandpass and switch out it to a sealed box when I need the space for traveling and such. I’ll probably run it both ways. I’ll definitely be watching when you start building these. I’ve been eying the Dayton ultimax 15 but I’d like to try something new. Ive already tried 6 different Dayton’s of various size.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I have an SUV, so room isn’t much of an issue. I don’t want a 10 cube box really though. LolI want to try a 15 in a bunch of different boxes, but specifically a 15 that I can play around with in 4th order bandpass and switch out it to a sealed box when I need the space for traveling and such. I’ll probably run it both ways. I’ll definitely be watching when you start building these. I’ve been eying the Dayton ultimax 15 but I’d like to try something new. Ive already tried 6 different Dayton’s of various size.

with an suv the skies the limit lol. For those of us with cars the limits the sky lol. The demo car I’m going to build I must have two 15’s so the back seats will be removed to make that happen.

sealed 2.5-2.75 cubes is perfect if you want incredible low end. It will still get pretty damn low in smaller, in 2.2 cubic feet they will grab upper 20’s depending on the car. I never played with them in band pass boxes.

have you tried a Dayton max X 15 yet?

 

[SlugButter]

with an suv the skies the limit lol. For those of us with cars the limits the sky lol. The demo car I’m going to build I must have two 15’s so the back seats will be removed to make that happen.

sealed 2.5-2.75 cubes is perfect if you want incredible low end. It will still get pretty damn low in smaller, in 2.2 cubic feet they will grab upper 20’s depending on the car. I never played with them in band pass boxes.

have you tried a Dayton max X 15 yet?

No. The 12 and 15 max x are both back ordered right now. I was running the 12 inch ultimax and also the 8 inch ultimax for awhile. I’ve used the Dayton HO 15 before and it was decent. Right now I’m running the Dayton reference high excursion 10 inch.

 

[djdilliodon!]

No. The 12 and 15 max x are both back ordered right now. I was running the 12 inch ultimax and also the 8 inch ultimax for awhile. I’ve used the Dayton HO 15 before and it was decent. Right now I’m running the Dayton reference high excursion 10 inch.

even tho I build subs and also use what I build, anytime something new comes out, I always try it out for curiosity and also to eventually take it apart. I had a max X 15 and ran the sub for about a month. The cone started to separate from the coil which caused me to just do a build on it using the motor. I could of sent it back under warranty but they just ran out of stock. The coil on the sub isn’t 2.5”, it’s actually a 2.38” coil. While it worked it was a decent sounding sub. Output was good just the low end output (low 30’s and under) lacked for my tastes.

 

[SlugButter]

even tho I build subs and also use what I build, anytime something new comes out, I always try it out for curiosity and also to eventually take it apart. I had a max X 15 and ran the sub for about a month. The cone started to separate from the coil which caused me to just do a build on it using the motor. I could of sent it back under warranty but they just ran out of stock. The coil on the sub isn’t 2.5”, it’s actually a 2.38” coil. While it worked it was a decent sounding sub. Output was good just the low end output (low 30’s and under) lacked for my tastes.

The ultimax line sound really good in sealed enclosures, but I wouldn’t even recommend running one ported. Really easy to over extend it in a ported box. I ruined 2 of them screwing around. Kind of user error, but I’ve had subs take far more punishment than that and live through it. The reference series seems a little more durable, but it doesn’t take much over the rated 800 watts to over drive it in a ported box before it hits xmax and starts death rattling.

 

[djdilliodon!]

The ultimax line sound really good in sealed enclosures, but I wouldn’t even recommend running one ported. Really easy to over extend it in a ported box. I ruined 2 of them screwing around. Kind of user error, but I’ve had subs take far more punishment than that and live through it. The reference series seems a little more durable, but it doesn’t take much over the rated 800 watts to over drive it in a ported box before it hits xmax and starts death rattling.

they recommend ported for them right? If so the sub should have no issues. The only way I’d ever deny a warranty claim as user error is a burnt coil or obvious intentional/accidental damage like slipping with a screw driver and making a hole. If running rated power you are able to exceed mechanical limits, that IMO is poor design on their part. One thing we all learn in car audio is tuition, we all pay it by trying out different things and seeing what lives up to, exceeds, or falls short of our expectations. It’s always been my favorite part of it, I just love playing with new stuff even tho it can get expensive .

 

[SlugButter]

they recommend ported for them right? If so the sub should have no issues. The only way I’d ever deny a warranty claim as user error is a burnt coil or obvious intentional/accidental damage like slipping with a screw driver and making a hole. If running rated power you are able to exceed mechanical limits, that IMO is poor design on their part. One thing we all learn in car audio is tuition, we all pay it by trying out different things and seeing what lives up to, exceeds, or falls short of our expectations. It’s always been my favorite part of it, I just love playing with new stuff even tho it can get expensive .

I do like the way they sound, I’m no sub builder. I’ve never even done a recone, but I’ve owned probably over 100 subs in my lifetime and built a couple hundred boxes for other peoples subs. I have more Dayton’s in my burn pile than any other sub now, all in ported boxes. I’m just murdering one of the little Audio Legion 10s, way over its rated power right now and it’s a 70$ woofer. Taking it like a champ. I can tell already that I could not do that with this Dayton Reference series woofer. It sounds better, but I could kill it pretty easy. I clipped the crap out of the Audio Legion on purpose and it’s still fine. I’m gonna move on to a different brand now.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I do like the way they sound, I’m no sub builder. I’ve never even done a recone, but I’ve owned probably over 100 subs in my lifetime and built a couple hundred boxes for other peoples subs. I have more Dayton’s in my burn pile than any other sub now, all in ported boxes. I’m just murdering one of the little Audio Legion 10s, way over its rated power right now and it’s a 70$ woofer. Taking it like a champ. I can tell already that I could not do that with this Dayton Reference series woofer. It sounds better, but I could kill it pretty easy. I clipped the crap out of the Audio Legion on purpose and it’s still fine. I’m gonna move on to a different brand now.

best feeling ever is when you buy something and it exceeds you’re expectations. A $70 sub able to take way more than it’s rated at and live is pretty impressive. How much power are you sending it? Do you know what the coil size is? I’ve had so many different subs over the years I lost count lol. I was a big fan of TC sounds if I didn’t build something for myself. I miss those guys .

 

[SlugButter]

best feeling ever is when you buy something and it exceeds you’re expectations. A $70 sub able to take way more than it’s rated at and live is pretty impressive. How much power are you sending it? Do you know what the coil size is? I’ve had so many different subs over the years I lost count lol. I was a big fan of TC sounds if I didn’t build something for myself. I miss those guys .

It’s a 2.5 inch 4 layer coil 600 watt rms sub. I just threw it on the amp I have running the 800 watt Dayton without adjusting gains and just turned it up full tilt. Probably around 850-900 watts, since I went over my max volume just to see how much it could take. The sub sound pretty bad at this point, but a 17 year old kid with the box in his trunk probably wouldn’t even hear it up front while driving around playing a clipped sine wave with some rebased rap music he found on YouTube. I was easily over powering it and had a super clipped signal as well at this point. Played 5 straight songs with deep bass this way and it lived, sounding terribly clipped the whole time. It was hot, but it lived. The Dayton 10 inch reference is a far superior sub. It does sound better and it’s louder. There’s no comparison, but if I push over stated rms to the Dayton like that in a ported box, it rattles during over excursion and starts acting up almost immediately. It’s not going to make it. I blew 2 different ultimax subs in the same manner already and heard the same exact sound. In a sealed box it seems stay under control a lot better. I would never sell this sub to a kid running a ported box in a trunk, and I’m going to stop recommending them for ported setups altogether. I had similar results with the ultimax ported. Good sealed sub, but I’m just not having very good luck with Dayton in ported setups.

 

[djdilliodon!]

It’s a 2.5 inch 4 layer coil 600 watt rms sub. I just threw it on the amp I have running the 800 watt Dayton without adjusting gains and just turned it up full tilt. Probably around 850-900 watts, since I went over my max volume just to see how much it could take. The sub sound pretty bad at this point, but a 17 year old kid with the box in his trunk probably wouldn’t even hear it up front while driving around playing a clipped sine wave with some rebased rap music he found on YouTube. I was easily over powering it and had a super clipped signal as well at this point. Played 5 straight songs with deep bass this way and it lived, sounding terribly clipped the whole time. It was hot, but it lived. The Dayton 10 inch reference is a far superior sub. It does sound better and it’s louder. There’s no comparison, but if I push over stated rms to the Dayton like that in a ported box, it rattles during over excursion and starts acting up almost immediately. It’s not going to make it. I blew 2 different ultimax subs in the same manner already and heard the same exact sound. In a sealed box it seems stay under control a lot better. I would never sell this sub to a kid running a ported box in a trunk, and I’m going to stop recommending them for ported setups altogether. I had similar results with the ultimax ported. Good sealed sub, but I’m just not having very good luck with Dayton in ported setups.

a decent quality 2.5” coil could easily handle 600 rms, heck they could handle 800 or even 1000 with cooling features built into the motor and frame. A $70 sub which off the bat we know that’s made overseas using the cheapest parts possible, still is impressive it can take that abuse! The truth is tho while the Dayton sub obviously uses better parts, it’s build quality is similar as it’s made in China just like that audio legion sub is. Do you still have the blown ultimax subs and if so what size are they? I got a few 2.5” coils left over from building prototypes. I may be interested in taking them off your hands to recone them. I’d recone them for you free, make them able to handle it all but the shipping might hurt you a bit depending what size they are. The parts wouldn’t cost much but I’d have to measure the coil first and the gap etc to see if what I have would work.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I just did a rear deck blowthrough series 6th order.

 

[SlugButter]

a decent quality 2.5” coil could easily handle 600 rms, heck they could handle 800 or even 1000 with cooling features built into the motor and frame. A $70 sub which off the bat we know that’s made overseas using the cheapest parts possible, still is impressive it can take that abuse! The truth is tho while the Dayton sub obviously uses better parts, it’s build quality is similar as it’s made in China just like that audio legion sub is. Do you still have the blown ultimax subs and if so what size are they? I got a few 2.5” coils left over from building prototypes. I may be interested in taking them off your hands to recone them. I’d recone them for you free, make them able to handle it all but the shipping might hurt you a bit depending what size they are. The parts wouldn’t cost much but I’d have to measure the coil first and the gap etc to see if what I have would work.

I gave most of the blown subs I had to a kid who said he is learning to rebuild subs. The only ones I have now is a Dayton ultimax 8 and an older infinity 12.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I gave most of the blown subs I had to a kid who said he is learning to rebuild subs. The only ones I have now is a Dayton ultimax 8 and an older infinity 12.

you have any use for the ultimax 8? I got D2 2 “ coils which I can get the xmax to 17-18mm range depending on the top plate thickness. Could recone it for $45 with a poly dust cap or $55 with a solid carbon fiber one. I’d most likely pull the motor from the frame and add some spacers for added cooling. If you have no use for it PM me a price, I’ll mess with it