Mounting Sub Box to Rear Deck and Using Rear Deck Speaker Holes as Ports

[SlugButter]

best feeling ever is when you buy something and it exceeds you’re expectations. A $70 sub able to take way more than it’s rated at and live is pretty impressive. How much power are you sending it? Do you know what the coil size is? I’ve had so many different subs over the years I lost count lol. I was a big fan of TC sounds if I didn’t build something for myself. I miss those guys .

It’s a 2.5 inch 4 layer coil 600 watt rms sub. I just threw it on the amp I have running the 800 watt Dayton without adjusting gains and just turned it up full tilt. Probably around 850-900 watts, since I went over my max volume just to see how much it could take. The sub sound pretty bad at this point, but a 17 year old kid with the box in his trunk probably wouldn’t even hear it up front while driving around playing a clipped sine wave with some rebased rap music he found on YouTube. I was easily over powering it and had a super clipped signal as well at this point. Played 5 straight songs with deep bass this way and it lived, sounding terribly clipped the whole time. It was hot, but it lived. The Dayton 10 inch reference is a far superior sub. It does sound better and it’s louder. There’s no comparison, but if I push over stated rms to the Dayton like that in a ported box, it rattles during over excursion and starts acting up almost immediately. It’s not going to make it. I blew 2 different ultimax subs in the same manner already and heard the same exact sound. In a sealed box it seems stay under control a lot better. I would never sell this sub to a kid running a ported box in a trunk, and I’m going to stop recommending them for ported setups altogether. I had similar results with the ultimax ported. Good sealed sub, but I’m just not having very good luck with Dayton in ported setups.

 

[djdilliodon!]

It’s a 2.5 inch 4 layer coil 600 watt rms sub. I just threw it on the amp I have running the 800 watt Dayton without adjusting gains and just turned it up full tilt. Probably around 850-900 watts, since I went over my max volume just to see how much it could take. The sub sound pretty bad at this point, but a 17 year old kid with the box in his trunk probably wouldn’t even hear it up front while driving around playing a clipped sine wave with some rebased rap music he found on YouTube. I was easily over powering it and had a super clipped signal as well at this point. Played 5 straight songs with deep bass this way and it lived, sounding terribly clipped the whole time. It was hot, but it lived. The Dayton 10 inch reference is a far superior sub. It does sound better and it’s louder. There’s no comparison, but if I push over stated rms to the Dayton like that in a ported box, it rattles during over excursion and starts acting up almost immediately. It’s not going to make it. I blew 2 different ultimax subs in the same manner already and heard the same exact sound. In a sealed box it seems stay under control a lot better. I would never sell this sub to a kid running a ported box in a trunk, and I’m going to stop recommending them for ported setups altogether. I had similar results with the ultimax ported. Good sealed sub, but I’m just not having very good luck with Dayton in ported setups.

a decent quality 2.5” coil could easily handle 600 rms, heck they could handle 800 or even 1000 with cooling features built into the motor and frame. A $70 sub which off the bat we know that’s made overseas using the cheapest parts possible, still is impressive it can take that abuse! The truth is tho while the Dayton sub obviously uses better parts, it’s build quality is similar as it’s made in China just like that audio legion sub is. Do you still have the blown ultimax subs and if so what size are they? I got a few 2.5” coils left over from building prototypes. I may be interested in taking them off your hands to recone them. I’d recone them for you free, make them able to handle it all but the shipping might hurt you a bit depending what size they are. The parts wouldn’t cost much but I’d have to measure the coil first and the gap etc to see if what I have would work.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I just did a rear deck blowthrough series 6th order.

 

[SlugButter]

a decent quality 2.5” coil could easily handle 600 rms, heck they could handle 800 or even 1000 with cooling features built into the motor and frame. A $70 sub which off the bat we know that’s made overseas using the cheapest parts possible, still is impressive it can take that abuse! The truth is tho while the Dayton sub obviously uses better parts, it’s build quality is similar as it’s made in China just like that audio legion sub is. Do you still have the blown ultimax subs and if so what size are they? I got a few 2.5” coils left over from building prototypes. I may be interested in taking them off your hands to recone them. I’d recone them for you free, make them able to handle it all but the shipping might hurt you a bit depending what size they are. The parts wouldn’t cost much but I’d have to measure the coil first and the gap etc to see if what I have would work.

I gave most of the blown subs I had to a kid who said he is learning to rebuild subs. The only ones I have now is a Dayton ultimax 8 and an older infinity 12.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I gave most of the blown subs I had to a kid who said he is learning to rebuild subs. The only ones I have now is a Dayton ultimax 8 and an older infinity 12.

you have any use for the ultimax 8? I got D2 2 “ coils which I can get the xmax to 17-18mm range depending on the top plate thickness. Could recone it for $45 with a poly dust cap or $55 with a solid carbon fiber one. I’d most likely pull the motor from the frame and add some spacers for added cooling. If you have no use for it PM me a price, I’ll mess with it