Most watts I can have before dimming?

Throw a kinteik 2400 Hc in the back, along with a batcap...Im running alot of power on one 2400hc And I dim, but some dimming is normal.
Actually no. It may be common but its not normal. If your system is pulling enough current to cause dimming, then its not really the proper electrical.

And arnt you only running 1200w RMS? I run 1200w RMS on a big interstate and a factory alt and get very minimal dimming. What does your Kenetics float at?

 
I'm running around 1125w RMS just from my amps. Kinetik stays around 12.81 volts i believe, may have to check again.

I don't get any dim right now with my setup, only when i turn the volume all the way up, with bass +7 and subwoofer +15 all at max on my alpine headunit.

 
Fairly simple question i believe. Figure out the current draw of all your cars electronics, take that away from the amperage your alt is capable of, and see what kind of amperage is left over to play with.

 
its hard to really answer, you can only guess, different amps have different effencies, class d is more efficient than a class a/b, but even then one class d to another there can be a big difference

 
You'll be good with a fairly consistant voltage running the orion at 1 ohm with 2 1400's...as long as your grounds are good, I can't see it not. I was fully running a DD m3 at 2500w with a kin 2400 and stinger 1000 with a 120a alt with only a bit of dimming.

Hell, as long as your voltage stays >~12.5v, you have nothing to worry about- dimming happens.

 
Because not all amps have the same efficiency under load...
Amps=amplifiers?

While that is true, you can take the factory rating to be close enough.

However, if you take any given amp and place it in a car with strong electrical that runs at 15.0v under load, it will pull a certain amount of current. Now take that same amp and put it in a stock vehicle that drops to 12.5v under load and you will see that amp pull much higher current.

That is why I say that you cannot go by current alone, since most vehicles are going to differ in voltage under load. However the amplifier is going to try to make rated power regardless.

 
Ive got a cheap walmart batt and a redtop under the hood, i had decent drops with the walmart batt, but ive deep cycled that mofo quite a few times. Think i need a new one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif I thought i had a 110 amp alt but come to find out its 63 amps...max LOL. Im running about 1000rms all together though and the electrical holds up pretty decent i must say, although i cant play it full tilt at night with the lights on //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
...pdx amp doesn't even have a gain control.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

pdx4100.jpg


 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

pdx4100.jpg
Your eyes are lying to you //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Input Gain Adjustment Control

Set the PDX-4.100 input gain to the minimum (4V) position. Using

a dynamic CD as a source, increase the head unit volume

until the output distorts. Then, reduce the volume 1 step (or until

the output is no longer distorted). Now, increase the amplifier gain

until the sound from the speakers becomes distorted. Reduce the

gain slightly so the sound is no longer distorted to achieve the

optimum gain setting.
 
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Ok, i will go on this option. Thanks a lot bro for the help, i really appreciate again, Cheers
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