is 45 watts per channel enough for a pair of morel maximo 6 comps?

JAD1327

CarAudio.com Newbie
My current setup consists of two pairs of jbl gto8626 coaxials, along with a single sealed alpine 10in e series sub and alpine mrp-m500 amp, all in a sound deadened ford taurus (well, technically I haven't deadened the front doors yet but I plan to when I install new speakers). While the jbls are alright, I've found them fairly harsh and lacking in midrange, and so I have decided to set them aside and eventually use them to replace some cheapo pioneers in my dad's suburban. I have also decided to make the jump to passive components in the front of my taurus, and I was just recently watching a listing for a pair of old boston pro series 6.5 comps since I already have boston rally coaxials I am going to be installing in the rear, but they unfortunately went for more than I was willing to spend:cry:. Therefore I have decided to look at some new comp sets that are around $150-200 and I've narrowed down my options to either the morel maximo 6s or the focal rse-165s. Between the two the morels sound like the better option, but I am concerned that I do not have enough power to get decent enough output out of them. They are rated at 90w rms with 90.5dB sensitivity, while the focals are rated at 60w rms with 90dB sensitivity. My jbls have around the same sensitivity and I'm good with the spl levels I get out of them, but I've heard that generally comps need more power than coaxials to sound decent. My amp is the built in amp on a sony dsx-gs80 HU which is 45w rms per channel. I'm not willing to install a separate multi channel amp at the moment as I do not want to go through the hassle of finding a place to install it and wire it up in my relatively small car. I also know that I'll probably get at least a few responses suggesting to ditch the rear speakers and bridge the outputs to my fronts for more power, which is a good suggestion, but unfortunately I do have rear seat passengers quite often and so I don't want to take away their speakers. Is my power enough to get good sound out of the morels, or would the focals maybe be better in this situation, even if they are probably going to be a little bit too harsh for my tastes and not as smooth? Or is there maybe another component set in this price range which would be smooth and accurate but with enough high end output to still have detail (similar to my ads l300s on my desk at home if any of you all have ever used those or their 300is car equivalents)?
 
Neither set of speakers are going to get the power they need to perform without an external amplifier of 50 watts rms on up. The HU is only going to provide you with maybe 10 watts RMS per ch at the most if you are lucky. You will prob. get plenty of distortion and poor SQ without an external amplifier by increasing the volume knob and no door treatments. Either speaker will eventually become damaged from clipping and distortion unless you keep things down to clean listen levels. But I highly recommend any fairly decent amplifier. Amps are so much cheaper these days and not rocket science to install. You could get one small enough to fit under the dash,glove box or even use extreme velcro and placed under one of the front seats
Doesnt have to be super expensive.


 
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Neither set of speakers are going to get the power they need to perform with an external amplifier of 50 watts rms on up. The HU is only going to provide you with maybe 10 watts RMS per ch at the most if you are lucky. You will prob. get plenty of distortion and poor SQ without an external amplifier by increasing the volume knob and no door treatments. Either speaker will eventually be3come damaged from clipping and distortion unless you keep things down to clean listen levels. But I highly recommend any fairly decent amplifier. Amps are so much cheaper these days and not rocket science to install. You could get one small enough to fit under the dash,glove box or even use extreme velcro and placed under one of the front seats
Doesnt have to be super expensive.


That would be the case if I was using a different HU. The gs80 has an actual 4 channel 45w rms amplifier in it and requires a direct connection to the battery due to this. In fact that's why I got this HU, as all I had to do was wire up a wiring harness adapter and run a 4 awg cable from the battery to a distribution block, with 8 awg cables going to the gs80 and my sub amp.

here's a video where a gs80 is tested with an smd dyno, it delivered a little bit more than 45w at 14.4v
 
That would be the case if I was using a different HU. The gs80 has an actual 4 channel 45w rms amplifier in it and requires a direct connection to the battery due to this. In fact that's why I got this HU, as all I had to do was wire up a wiring harness adapter and run a 4 awg cable from the battery to a distribution block, with 8 awg cables going to the gs80 and my sub amp.

here's a video where a gs80 is tested with an smd dyno, it delivered a little bit more than 45w at 14.4v

You can try it out. Id still recommend an External Amplifier regardless to have some head room and real power on tap and more tuning options. Id want to pull the door panels one time for at least a years times worth and not have to worry about it for a bit. That testing that V does is momentarily. Im not a fan of his Ch. He usually promotes gear that he gets sponsorship from and sales for a bonus. Pretty Poor efficiency from the HU MOMEMTARY testing method used. Im sure running that HU for a good hour or more without an internal fan on it to keep it running cool will eventually fail from heat, and the RMS values will drop dramatically. But Hey.. Each to theyre own Right?? I still know very little after 30 years, and still learning
 
here's a video where a gs80 is tested with an smd dyno, it delivered a little bit more than 45w at 14.4v
IMO the radio sounds like a winner. In the old days all I had was radio and speakers (in my parent's cars) and it all sounded great. With the 90dB rating of both speaker sets, I would opt for the lower power speakers. I would assume it'd be easier to make them sing since you'd be closer to their RMS limit.
 
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Ya man.. Wire it up. See how it does for you. It may be all you are wanting and needing? Are you going to at least seal up your front doors from road noises??
 
I myself wouldnt spend over $100 Bucks on any speaker to run off HU power. Id run something like these here or my go to Polk DB series speakers

 
A 100w x 2 amp is pretty cheap. You can easily find one for $100. I wouldn't let that change my mind. Not trying to be rude when I say this, but saying you don't have room, and don't want to run wiring for an amp is a pretty lame excuse. I feel like you must either not know your options, or there is some other reason.


Amps can be pretty small. This is my Cerwin Vega B52 amp that is 150w x 2 @4ohms RMS, or 500w x 1 @ 4 ohms. This would fit anywhere. I know I got a good deal on it. I want to say $80 or so, you just have to find em at the right time.
Cerwin.jpg





I didn't look, but have you verified you can't biamp either one of those component sets? (wire each of the 4 speakers in the components directly to each channel. So 4 channels instead of the common 2). It would put your power range right there, where you want it. You could only run the front components, which would be good enough for the front passengers. If you want a set of components and rears, you're going to need an amp.


I also always suggest checking this place out when shopping. You can find some nice deals.
 
A 100w x 2 amp is pretty cheap. You can easily find one for $100. I wouldn't let that change my mind. Not trying to be rude when I say this, but saying you don't have room, and don't want to run wiring for an amp is a pretty lame excuse. I feel like you must either not know your options, or there is some other reason.


Amps can be pretty small. This is my Cerwin Vega B52 amp that is 150w x 2 @4ohms RMS, or 500w x 1 @ 4 ohms. This would fit anywhere. I know I got a good deal on it. I want to say $80 or so, you just have to find em at the right time.
View attachment 49567




I didn't look, but have you verified you can't biamp either one of those component sets? (wire each of the 4 speakers in the components directly to each channel. So 4 channels instead of the common 2). It would put your power range right there, where you want it. You could only run the front components, which would be good enough for the front passengers. If you want a set of components and rears, you're going to need an amp.


I also always suggest checking this place out when shopping. You can find some nice deals.
Thats pretty small amplifier for sure. I had some NVX mini amps=2(300 watt Mono) and a (50x4) that were pretty small did really nice,and I had a mini Stetsom 2 ch that did really great on some 6x9s.
 
You can try it out. Id still recommend an External Amplifier regardless to have some head room and real power on tap and more tuning options. Id want to pull the door panels one time for at least a years times worth and not have to worry about it for a bit. That testing that V does is momentarily. Im not a fan of his Ch. He usually promotes gear that he gets sponsorship from and sales for a bonus. Pretty Poor efficiency from the HU MOMEMTARY testing method used. Im sure running that HU for a good hour or more without an internal fan on it to keep it running cool will eventually fail from heat, and the RMS values will drop dramatically. But Hey.. Each to theyre own Right?? I still know very little after 30 years, and still learning
The heat issue is a good point that I honestly didn't really think about before. I've run the HU pretty loud for a few hours at a time on the jbls and didn't notice any distortion or ill effects, but more demanding speakers could change that. However, I am now also skeptical of the channel I linked to; I honestly passed over the efficiency rating he gave the gs80 when I watched the video before, and so I didn't see his claim of it being only 32% efficient. I don't believe that at all. That would somehow make this class d amp less efficient than than the majority of class ab amps, which I highly doubt. Realistically I'd assume that the HU is closer to 90% efficient. Either way I'm sure that the amp built into the gs80 is pretty low quality regardless of power, and so I most likely will go with an external amp later, it'll just be a long ways down the road since I don't really want to deal with the cost or install process of one right now. I'm sure I could make one work if I wanted to.
 
A 100w x 2 amp is pretty cheap. You can easily find one for $100. I wouldn't let that change my mind. Not trying to be rude when I say this, but saying you don't have room, and don't want to run wiring for an amp is a pretty lame excuse. I feel like you must either not know your options, or there is some other reason.


Amps can be pretty small. This is my Cerwin Vega B52 amp that is 150w x 2 @4ohms RMS, or 500w x 1 @ 4 ohms. This would fit anywhere. I know I got a good deal on it. I want to say $80 or so, you just have to find em at the right time.
View attachment 49567




I didn't look, but have you verified you can't biamp either one of those component sets? (wire each of the 4 speakers in the components directly to each channel. So 4 channels instead of the common 2). It would put your power range right there, where you want it. You could only run the front components, which would be good enough for the front passengers. If you want a set of components and rears, you're going to need an amp.


I also always suggest checking this place out when shopping. You can find some nice deals.
It's not really having the space that's an issue I guess, it's more having the space in an area where running the rcas and speaker wiring would make sense. I would also have to find a way to mount and install a dsp since I wouldn't consider upgrading to an external amp without also adding a dsp for phase alignment as well as running an active crossover setup. With that in mind the added cost would be somewhere around $300 including the cables needed as well to install the new amp and dsp, which is a little more than I want to spend right now on my car setup. At some point I may sell all the spare hifi gear I got lying around the house and use that to pay for an amp-or more likely, more hifi gear that I won't use.
 
DSP seems like a little much for $150-$200 components on one amp; and of course you could add it down the road, if you actually needed it.

Your head unit has time alignment. Isn't that all you would need?
To be honest I didn't realise that the HU had time alignment. I thought that the time alignment menu was just a fancy fade and balance menu since the only mentions of time alignment on Sony's website were "digital time alignment presets" which I assumed was referring to the subwoofer distance setting. The documentation for this head unit is kinda bad (or I just may be bad at searching through it).
 
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