Lithium Titanate (LTO) battery bank build.

Saweet this will work great. So I  have a 12v powermax 55 amp power supply. So make the power bank first. So for my application 6s3p and hook up to power supply check voltage with ddm while charging and then install. After about the first wk or a day of heavy playing check each cells voltage, is that right?
I mistakenly said put them in series first after a few drinks last night. I meant to say put them all in parallel. So the whole bank of whatever it is, lithium or caps, goes in parallel for a final voltage of the single cell voltage. Then when they all equalize put them in series and charge them. 

And yes check the cells individually until you're confident that they're working well in series. Kinda hard to do if you do parallel/series like some of the batt's hispls has in his pic

 
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I mistakenly said put them in series first after a few drinks last night. I meant to say put them all in parallel. So the whole bank of whatever it is, lithium or caps, goes in parallel for a final voltage of the single cell voltage. Then when they all equalize put them in series and charge them. 

And yes check the cells individually until you're confident that they're working well in series. Kinda hard to do if you do parallel/series like some of the batt's hispls has in his pic
okay that makes sense. It wouldn't  be to hard to check hispls if ya just lay bank on side u can leave everything hooked up and just  check each cell that way, correct? I will definitely be purchasing some cells soon. Hoping to find a group buy to drive down the cost of cells. I'm  thinking these ones.

Screenshot_20181004-020546.png

 
You leave it hooked up as a monitor all the time. Only balance cells when needed. No, these technically are not a BMS. As they don't control input or output of the bank. Just monitor/balance, and charge cell packs as needed. Your alternator will keep the battery, as a whole, charged.
Cool. So these run on dc power? Or just get inverter? How do u have  urs hooked up in ur vehicle? If ya don't  mind me asking. 

 
Cool. So these run on dc power? Or just get inverter? How do u have  urs hooked up in ur vehicle? If ya don't  mind me asking. 
Yes, these run on 12-30v DC power. I'll be using a 24v 20a power supply to charge/balance mine when needed while sitting at home.

You just missed a big group buy on the LTO cells hispls is using. FB man ..... its helpful at times ...

 
Alright. Well I'm ready to build this bank now. That's  a big amp. You running 1ohm on that? 
.7 ohm

This power bank will start the car and charge everything and run lights, a/c / heater.  All the lil electronics it wil need to and not take away a bunch capacity from the audio side? 
Mine is doing just fine on this amp + everything else.  I'm sure half that would do fine with a 5K amp + the car's needs.  Not like the car needs much and really the point is your alternator feeds the car then what's left over charges into your battery.

Starting the vehicle in cold weather won't  affect this bank u think? 
Performance suffers in the cold, but these are supposed to be far more cold tolerant than LiFePO4 and of course even lead acid batteries suffer in sub-freezing temperatures.

 
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Congrats on the diy lithium build. I was looking at doing this myself. Upon my many hours and countless days of research I  found that you need the lithium iron phosphate cells as the lithium have to many variables if something was to go wrong. Also checked into many brands such as limitless and jy lithiums, neither of them run BMS (battery management systems) which is why vehicles are catching on fire as the cells become unstable at certain temps or charge irregular and cause short and then fire. Also loomed at xs power lithium and many others. The DS18 lithium seem the most transparent as they have wingnut tops on their case and u can check quality your self. I Called GP audio and was just asking and asked why they haven't  any lithiums yet, this striked an hr long convo of the research they have put into and money as well and why they won't  have any lithiums. Basically was told that lithiums are still to unstable even though the cells have that lil valve that will pop if something goes wrong and the BMS systems. If a cell pops being that close to the others it will cause an explosion. Also the bms systems detect alot of things like equal charging and safety shut offs. But the bms for car audio would cost to much to be practical and affordable. I was told that there is a new tech. That will be put in a couple yrs that will be as good as lithium and as safe as agm baterries. I decided I  am going to wait on lithium and just get another xsd3400 or maybe a North star if they ever go on sale. Lol. I see you stated lithium titanate, what is that? Is it safe? Also do you still need to have the special charging and checking system to utilize the use of these cells correctly? Will you be running bms on these? If anything I  have stated is incorrect by all means please enlighten me, I  want to go lithium so badly just  like a 80ah lithium but they same to risky and dangerous still.
Are some of these top makers (Limitless / jy) running the cells at full charge?  I have been reading and studying how these work as well.  It would make sense why they rate the amps/wattage so high per ah if they run whatever cells are inside at full capacity.  For one they will die faster, and two they have a lot more to dump out making them get super hot depending on how much they were capped out at.

 
.7 ohm

Mine is doing just fine on this amp + everything else.  I'm sure half that would do fine with a 5K amp + the car's needs.  Not like the car needs much and really the point is your alternator feeds the car then what's left over charges into your battery.

Performance suffers in the cold, but these are supposed to be far more cold tolerant than LiFePO4 and of course even lead acid batteries suffer in sub-freezing temperatures.
Okay. This has been a great  thread and with the help of y'all ready to get this going. There isn't  to much to it. Youtube and google just made things difficult to decipher. I'll  knock out the agm and add another parallel line just to be sure and not over stress  the bank (cells) so 24 cells and 6s4p 160ah.  Now if I  can just get a group by and drive down the  cost of cells, that'd be great.

 
Are some of these top makers (Limitless / jy) running the cells at full charge?  I have been reading and studying how these work as well.  It would make sense why they rate the amps/wattage so high per ah if they run whatever cells are inside at full capacity.  For one they will die faster, and two they have a lot more to dump out making them get super hot depending on how much they were capped out at.
Not sure how thwy are running their cells. But they aren't running bms's on them. I have no idea how they get their ah ratings of 15ah for a 3k system. They must be running the cells hard for those ratings, As u stated. And yep they'll  die or worse.

 
You would need to break it all up the way I have these bussed since the 6 packs are P you would measure only the entire bank.


.7 ohm

Mine is doing just fine on this amp + everything else.  I'm sure half that would do fine with a 5K amp + the car's needs.  Not like the car needs much and really the point is your alternator feeds the car then what's left over charges into your battery.

Performance suffers in the cold, but these are supposed to be far more cold tolerant than LiFePO4 and of course even lead acid batteries suffer in sub-freezing temperatures.
Is ur amp rated for below 1ohm? I am just curious as mine is rated to 1 ohm but I'll  be running a .67 ohm load when I  get my third sub.

 
Not sure how thwy are running their cells. But they aren't running bms's on them. I have no idea how they get their ah ratings of 15ah for a 3k system. They must be running the cells hard for those ratings, As u stated. And yep they'll  die or worse.
They have to be giving you a "burp" , or pulse rating. As that example would require a 20c+ rated cell. And most are only rated at 7-10c for 30 seconds. And 20c for a 10 second pusle.

 
Are some of these top makers (Limitless / jy) running the cells at full charge?  I have been reading and studying how these work as well.  It would make sense why they rate the amps/wattage so high per ah if they run whatever cells are inside at full capacity. 
I'd guess it's similar to power ratings on anything where they assume that few people will ever see much more than half rated power out of an amp and even that not for long due to impedance curve and the dynamic nature of music.   That said, the LiFePO4 cells that they use are likely 30C rated so they'll deliver 10X their amp hour rating in burst current.

Okay. This has been a great  thread and with the help of y'all ready to get this going. There isn't  to much to it. Youtube and google just made things difficult to decipher. I'll  knock out the agm and add another parallel line just to be sure and not over stress  the bank (cells) so 24 cells and 6s4p 160ah.  Now if I  can just get a group by and drive down the  cost of cells, that'd be great.
That's the spirit, go big or go home.  Feel free to bus them whatever way you want.  A couple of the Chinese suppliers had some various bussing solutions which weren't quite cost effective as cutting up your own bar but may be a lot easier to work with and give you more flexible options.   The biggest price break per cell was just buying enough to get into sea/freight shipping.  Smaller orders would have had to ship express.... at your door in @ 5 days but over double the cost of sea shipping which was already pretty high.   Like I said, I'm really happy with the company I ordered them from so stick to them

Not sure how thwy are running their cells. But they aren't running bms's on them. I have no idea how they get their ah ratings of 15ah for a 3k system. They must be running the cells hard for those ratings, As u stated. And yep they'll  die or worse.
A123 32113 cells are 30C rated and have been tested to do even a little more.  I know one of those tailor made lithium companies uses those, the rest likely use something similar/comparable.  So indeed, a 15AH battery could deliver 450A.  I think your big issue there is the charge rating of only 5C IIRC, meaning charging with greater than 150A would probably hurt them far faster than quick burst draws.    Mind you 15AH is still 15AH so you don't have that much on tap, just what you have you can get a lot of very quickly. 

The initial bank I was planning was those cells, I'm glad I jumped ship into the LTO.

Is ur amp rated for below 1ohm? I am just curious as mine is rated to 1 ohm but I'll  be running a .67 ohm load when I  get my third sub.
Rated 1 ohm  and "stable into .5 ohm dynamic" or somesuch.   Again, they figure at .5 ohm nominal the amp will probably never see below .7 or so anyway. 

I really wanted this thread to be informative and a knowledge base.  A few of us have done a lot of research and now some testing.  The guys who sell 1200$ 40AH LiFePO4 banks aren't likely to chime in and tell us anything, in fact the main reason I did this myself is that I couldn't get a straight answer out of any of the 3 companies I tried to talk with about them.    If i wasn't so busy with my real work and other projects I'd have kept my lips shut and would be building banks for resale myself probably charging about 2000$ for the 240AH size I'm using here or thereabouts.  The catch would be to figure that you would have a certain number of duds or failures from abuse that you'd have to eat the cost of and charge a price accordingly.    If you can wait a month and a half to get the cells, take a couple days to make your own bus bars and assemble sure you can save some money, you want the work done and delivered in a few days, pay up.   In fact, if anybody is impatient I'll sell the bank I have sitting here for my brother right now for 2000$. 

 
I'm from Texas, we always go big. Haha. okay. Good to know. I'm  glad you did create this thread as many answers you really couldn't  find else where were answered on this thread.

This thread is going to help many diyers and with a safe alternative to play with such as LTO. However, you definitely woulda made a pretty penny selling these, but who knows how long a cell would last and have warranty out, as u stated. Limitless states their 15ah is good for 3k watt system. Just know way they'd survive 3k rms for veey long.

I knew something was off with the premade lithium batteries as noone tells you what cells they are using or bms ( lack there of). Knowing what cells is vital to safety. I knew they had to have been overpriced at looking at cost of cells.

I'm  just gonna wait for the nxt group buy I  see on here and go with that. Hopefully I'll  have this build done in the mext 4months or so.

 
Limitless states their 15ah is good for 3k watt system. Just know way they'd survive 3k rms for veey long.
Like I said, if those cells are 30C rated even if someone was getting max power out of that amp for prolonged periods of time those cells shouldn't be terribly over-stressed, bigger stress would be on the charging side if you have an HO alternator!   LiFePO4 cells are 2000-3000 cycles rated so I'd expect barring getting a dud cell in the bank or gross abuse they're not paying out too many warranties assuming they do 1 year.

I knew something was off with the premade lithium batteries as noone tells you what cells they are using or bms ( lack there of). Knowing what cells is vital to safety. I knew they had to have been overpriced at looking at cost of cells.
I wouldn't say overpriced.   I priced the A123 cells (which some of these guys use or at least used at one point) and after bussing, a case, labor, and eating a few warranties they're priced about what you'd need to price them at to keep the lights on and make a living.   I'm confident that LiFePO4 technology is very safe and it would be nearly impossible to have them fail in a way that is dangerous.  Biggest risk is that a dud cell slags the capacity of all cells in the bank. 

If you're in Texas you definitely won't have to worry about loss of performance from being too cold.  By all accounts LTO holds up very well down to freezing and even a good bit beyond that.   Even the guys in know in Massachusetts who ran LiFePO4 last winter had no complaints and LiFePO4 is known to be quite weak at and below freezing.

Definitely do NOT put these under the hood.  They've got pretty good tolerance on the hot side, but keep an eye on that if you run them hard and live where it's 110 degrees most of the year.... perhaps an open side bank or some fans?   Though if you're going 4p6s You'll barely be pushing 1C in or out 90% of the time.

I'd also like to thank Shizzon who did post some useful explanations and info in a previous lithium thread... he never got back to me when I emailed him about buying cells though. 

 
Ah okay. Well makes sense. Definitely wouldn't  make sense to put that kind of stress on a h/o alternator.  I'm  thinking with the amount I'll  have they will hardly be stressed at all and gonna stick 'em in the trunk where I  have ran a/c and have a cooling fan.

I've gotta find that  thread now.  Lol

I have to thank both you Hispls and boominburban for all your help.

 
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