Isolator Questions

Stinger makes both Diode and Solenoid type isolators. Those eBay links were for Solenoid types which only isolate the batteries when the engine is turned off. Diode style relays always keep the batteries separate. You should look for a diode based isolator IMO. The only downside to the diode based isolators is that you will lose around half a volt using it. So it is recommended that you increase your alt output voltage to 15.0~15.5v to offset the loss.
EDIT: I just researched another new style of isolator that is based on FETs instead of diodes. ARGO makes some, but I have not found a US source yet. I will keep looking and let you know what I find. LINK. They only go up to a 200a model as far as I can tell though.
So it's a diode that I'm looking for.

 
since the amp rating of the relay type is greater than 10 or 20 amps most people I know would argue it is a contactor. The diode type is a true isolator the stinger little 2 posts are the best IMO for basic car audio in which you just want to keep the rear bank separate while the car is not running. The 3-4 post isolators do have that little voltage drop and I have never seen one hooked up to car audio only in a ham radio car.

 
Is there like a 300a one?
I have yet to find one bigger than the 240a you linked. However, I just received an email from a manufacturer stating that it is perfectly fine to parallel two of them to be able to handle the larger demands. So you could get 2 of the smaller FET based ones and parallel them to get a 400a version, all with a very small voltage loss (.01v).

 
I have yet to find one bigger than the 240a you linked. However, I just received an email from a manufacturer stating that it is perfectly fine to parallel two of them to be able to handle the larger demands. So you could get 2 of the smaller FET based ones and parallel them to get a 400a version, all with a very small voltage loss (.01v).
How much are the FET ones? And the adobe acrobat is messed up on my computer so I can't look at the data sheets.

 
LOL no need to bump a thread that only has 2 newer threads. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

HERE is a place selling the Argo 200A FET for $387 each. I am not sure if you can find them cheaper somewhere else. I would check with a marine shop. Someone like West Marine might have them too.

 
LOL no need to bump a thread that only has 2 newer threads. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
HERE is a place selling the Argo 200A FET for $387 each. I am not sure if you can find them cheaper somewhere else. I would check with a marine shop. Someone like West Marine might have them too.
Well with that price I might just buy a 240a and just get a 225 amp h/o or something.

 
so will this one i posted not work for what i want?
With that one, the issue is that once the car is started, your Redtop is still going to see the load of the audio. I think that is what you wanted to avoid. Basically the solenoid style like the one you linked only separates the batteries when the car is off. The diode/FET type keeps them separate all the time. The difference between the diode and FET style is that the FET style has less voltage drop.

 
you're gonna lose a volt going through an isolator. thats why most people don't use them anymore. plus your bank of batteries, engine off will only give you like 12 volts. if you're showin it than run the engine and get up 13 or so volts

 
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