Most critical electrical upgrade?

[Malax 10+ year member]

I'm planning on installing my system very very soon which will include an MTX 9500 dvc 12" rated at 1000 rms, and MTX 1501d rated at 1500 rms at 2 ohm, and an MTX 704x rated at 70 watts x 4 for my upgraded coaxials. All of this will be in a stock 93 Toyota camry 4 cyl.

My main question is what should I upgrade first to make sure I should handle this system. I've been reading up and I'm very confused. I've seen upgraded batteries to a batcap 800, Big 3, HO alternator, and secondary battery.

I'm really not sure what to do first as I really just want to get my stuff running without damaging/straining anything and then upgrade more from there as I get the money.

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[JBerger 10+ year member]

I say H.O. Alt and A Batt in the trunk along with some good ole 1/0 wire

 

[99FordExp]

I'm planning on installing my system very very soon which will include an MTX 9500 dvc 12" rated at 1000 rms, and MTX 1501d rated at 1500 rms at 2 ohm, and an MTX 704x rated at 70 watts x 4 for my upgraded coaxials. All of this will be in a stock 93 Toyota camry 4 cyl.
My main question is what should I upgrade first to make sure I should handle this system. I've been reading up and I'm very confused. I've seen upgraded batteries to a batcap 800, Big 3, HO alternator, and secondary battery.

I'm really not sure what to do first as I really just want to get my stuff running without damaging/straining anything and then upgrade more from there as I get the money.

big 3 first considering its the cheapest, then the rear batt, then alt. stay away from battery capacitors! not sayin you would grab one, just throwin it out there

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

1500 rms isn't much and I don't know if MTX does rated power BUT my opnion would be to do the Big 3 and get a good front battery. you should be fine with that.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

stay away from battery capacitors! not sayin you would grab one, just throwin it out there

Are you referring to Batcap brand batteries? Nothing wrong with them at all...great for daily systems and burps.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

for that little bit of wattage, start with the big 3 mod, and get at least as many amperes worth of battery as wattage.

If i were you, i would do the big 3, but a decent sized battery under the hood, and a nice big kinetik battery in the trunk (say, a kinetik hc2000 for example).

If you still have heavy voltage issues, go for the HO alternator.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Step 1) Big 3 with 1/0 wire

Step 2) Replace stock battery with HC1400 (or equivalent)

Step 3) Add another HC1400 to rear (Only if necessary)

Step 4) Upgrade Alt (Only if previous steps were not enough)

Steps 1 and 2 are required. Steps 3 and 4 are optional and you will have to see how much the first two steps do first before doing step 3. If you are getting drops of 12.5v or below at the sub amp after the first two steps, then do step 3. If after step 3 your batteries are not maintaining a full charge, you must do step 4.

Now if the HO alt is not affordable or easy to do, then you can also think about one of the Kinetik Power Supplies. They will charge your car when parked. You just need an extension cord and a wall outlet. It will keep the batteries charged so the next time you ride, you can play your music. Then while it is parked again, they will recharge again.

 

[Malax 10+ year member]

Thanks for all the responses. You guys have been a huge help.

 

[MTX9515 10+ year member]

just do the big three and see if you need more i'll have some extra 1/0 if you want to get some

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I can't believe people's love for over-priced batteries. Sometimes I wonder if charging system basics are even considered.

The fact of the matter is - whether or not your charging system can adequately power your soundsystem revolves COMPLETELY around the alternator.

If the alt is not strong enough to power the amps and charge the battery using a $50 wal-mart battery it will be just as incapable of charging a $500 Kinetic.

Those old MTX's are under-rated if anything so you're looking at around 1800w rms.

You're looking at around 200A max test tone current draw, or 66A max music current draw.

I think a '93 camry has an 80A alt. If I were guessing I'd say that alt will struggle with 1800w. I ran 1100w with a 75A alt for a while and it wasn't pretty.

It looks like there are some options on ebay for a 130A alt. That would solve your problems. That along with a good healthy battery and you would be good to go.

 

[thegreatestpenn 5,000+ posts]

alt is most important. Bigger wires help, but ultimately their source of power is the alternator. Batteries help, but they are charged by the alt. While upgrading wire is cheaper (and should be done) as well as a second or bigger batt, the alt is definitely the most important

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

I can't believe people's love for over-priced batteries. Sometimes I wonder if charging system basics are even considered.
The fact of the matter is - whether or not your charging system can adequately power your soundsystem revolves COMPLETELY around the alternator.

If the alt is not strong enough to power the amps and charge the battery using a $50 wal-mart battery it will be just as incapable of charging a $500 Kinetic.

Those old MTX's are under-rated if anything so you're looking at around 1800w rms.

You're looking at around 200A max test tone current draw, or 66A max music current draw.

I think a '93 camry has an 80A alt. If I were guessing I'd say that alt will struggle with 1800w. I ran 1100w with a 75A alt for a while and it wasn't pretty.

It looks like there are some options on ebay for a 130A alt. That would solve your problems. That along with a good healthy battery and you would be good to go.

I have never understood this as well....people jump at upgrading the 12v source before the 14v source for a daily system...why

 

[JBerger 10+ year member]

I can't believe people's love for over-priced batteries. Sometimes I wonder if charging system basics are even considered.
The fact of the matter is - whether or not your charging system can adequately power your soundsystem revolves COMPLETELY around the alternator.

If the alt is not strong enough to power the amps and charge the battery using a $50 wal-mart battery it will be just as incapable of charging a $500 Kinetic.

Those old MTX's are under-rated if anything so you're looking at around 1800w rms.

You're looking at around 200A max test tone current draw, or 66A max music current draw.

I think a '93 camry has an 80A alt. If I were guessing I'd say that alt will struggle with 1800w. I ran 1100w with a 75A alt for a while and it wasn't pretty.

It looks like there are some options on ebay for a 130A alt. That would solve your problems. That along with a good healthy battery and you would be good to go.

True that.

I had a VW Passat with a 90 amp alt and a 550cca AC Delco Batt and I only have a 1300 WRMS amp and had A LOT of problems with electrical. If it was dark, raining and hot outside, you could forget driving in comfort and having music because between headlights, wipers and the A/C, there just wasn't enough current left over to run the system. Then you have voltage drop and just a big ole mess of blown fuses and fried amps. And yes, that amp WILL do a minimum of 1500WRMS, so to be on the safe side, H.O. alt, nice front battery and big 3 would be a good start. A rear batt may not be necessary, but keep it as an option as well. And to clarify the term "cap" , avoid compacitors as in the Wal-Mart "3000 Watt amp kits with the 2 Farad Capacitors". As for BattCaps, they are just fine and work great.

 

[Ali1 10+ year member]

the biggest thing you want to upgrade is your HO alt, but with only 1500rms, you might get lucky without a HO alt. Shoo me a PM if you need more advice

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

i think i covered all my bases